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So today I decided the perfect vehicle to give a class on how to use our yet to be used coolant flush machine, was my car. A quick synopsis of what was performed today:

- Flush out the cooling system with water and Cool Rite Quick Clean system flush
- Refill with a 30% Zerex G-05 antifreeze and 70% Peak distilled water mixture
- Use a whole bottle of Royal Purple Purple Ice, similar to Redline's Water Wetter
- Replace the factory 15.5 PSI resevoir tank cap with a 17 PSI tank cap

It was a fun day all in all, with the machine we have it makes it a bitch to flush cooling systems if they don't have a radiator cap on the radiator. To "lower the level below the upper radiator hose", I had to remove the lower radiator hose at the bottom and that provided some wet and wild Dex-Cool fun. It seemingly did not want to flush, but all the orange was out of the color of what was coming out the discharge line, so I may have an even higher water percentage than I thought. I took the old 15.5 PSI cap into the store and matched it up with a Stant 11251 which is rated for 17 PSI. This should provide no problem as the Mazda6 FSM states the factory cap should test up to 17 PSI anyway.

So seeing all of this, driving it around and bleeding out the system and topping it back off again with the 30/70 mixture. I decided to snag the scan tool and checked the sensor data.

After being completely warmed up for 15 minutes and driven agressively and then set at idle for 3 minutes with an ambient temperature of 77 degrees outside:

Intake Air Temp - 18 degrees Celsius / 64.4 degrees Farenheit
Coolant temperature - 83 degrees Celsius / 181.4 degrees Farenheit

Full recap of what has been done to the cooling system since I've had the car:

- Stant 160F thermostat
- Stant 17PSI cap
- Throttle body coolant bypass
- Flush
- 30% Zerex G-05 / 70% distilled water
- 1 bottle of Royal Purple Purple Ice
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Pics.
 

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It was a slow Sunday this weekend, so I had one of my mechs install the Hayden thermostatic fan controller I had put off for so long.

Did just like jrsy (6Tech) said, splice the fan controller positive wires to the black wires off the fan motors, then positive to battery, ground to ground, left the A/C compressor wire alone and tapped into the ignition run wire on the ignition coils. As for the probe, jrsy drilled a small hole in his fan shroud, I found an easier way. The condensor does not cover up the radiator entirely, there is about 1/2" to 1" of exposed radiator core right above the condensor. Jammed the probe into the fins and used a little black RTV silicone to help keep it set (So it wouldn't vibrate out).

A few days later and everything is perfect. I still have the factory defective fan controller module, which before would cause the fans to cycle high to low to high constantly and then continously run for 5 to 10 minutes after the car was shut off. They only operate right now to cut the fans on when the A/C is cut on, which I verified as working.

As for what I have the fans set at, I really don't know. The module I have ranges between 160F to 210F and it's not really labeled, but it is at the halfway mark. So the fans will come full blast at 182-185F. The thermostat begins opening at 160F and should be fully open by 170F.

Wondering if I should bring it any lower, right now I am noticing something I cannot yet explain with performance, but it sure puts a smile on my face. Not to mention having the fans cut off within seconds of the car cutting off. The dummy temp gauge stops around 1/4 way while warming up, then slowly creeps up to the halfway mark.

There is no reason for anyone to skimp out on the fan controller mod. It's easy and cheap. About $20-$25 for the thermostatic fan controller and if you pay someone else to do it like I did, in Mitchell Labor Guide it's only 0.3hrs, which at our $77 flat rate was $23.00. For $50 you have full control over your fans.
 

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i was following jrsy's thread over there for a while but never found any sort of write. more important for me, pics. any chance you could throw up some quick pics for those that are word challanged like me and just need a pic to open their eyes?

Also on the coolant side of things. i'm doing a swap with Otaking for the AWR radiator as soon as we can get together...suggestions on fluid setup on that? I've run water wetter for a while now and it showed decent help, but need more now with turbo, wanna get the best mix i can
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I will do a write up Saturday and email it to Steve to put on 6Tech.

The way jrsy wrote it confused me too, but extract the basics of what he said in that thread and it is infinitely easy.
 

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Glad we're not pushing Dexcool these days :)

With the 160 stat, does the ecu still run closed loop, say cruising highway on a cool morning?

I'd be cautious about running 160 t-stat North of Md. Winters ...

If stock 190F stat is used, controller should not be set less than about 5 over. No need to run fans when stat is just cracked open and much of the coolant is bypassing the rad.
 

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On 6tech he was recommending a single stage fan controller but from what the previous posts seemed to say was that it varied voltage to alter fan output. So wouldn't one of the more costly kits be required so you don't burn your fan out real fast?
 

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Seeing as how for 23,000 miles and almost three years my fans have been varying the voltage from low to high to low to high to off to high to low, all within split seconds of each other and it didn't kill them yet.

Think of it like a case fan for your computer, unless thermostat controlled, it runs every moment and how often do those DC motors fail? Not often. Now we are working with much larger DC motors designed to work under these kind of conditions.
 

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to be more precise, for Aj v6 T-Stat:
opens at 184-190F (nominal 187F)
wide open at 210F (bypass losed, all coolant flows through rad.

ac on, fans cycle with compressor at 203F or below?
AC Off, Fans ramp up starting at 212F

Oem AJ fans operate on duty cycle volatge input, to ramp speed as needed. Flex-a-lite noe offers duty cycle controllers (about $70 ) that function like the oem controller they replace. Ramp up could be set to start at about 195F, with stock t-stat.
 

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I've run a mixture similar to Fordman's for about a month and it does appear to keep away the heat genie for a longer period of time. I am running 80/20 with Prestone Extended Life, Water Wetter, and a 160 tstat.

I'll be wiring up a Derati Thermostatic fan controller this weekend as well. I did some recon in the engine bay and mounted the unit last weekend, but didnt have the time to do a careful job of the wiring so It'll wait a few more days. :)
 

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Originally posted by vtusaf@Nov 6 2005, 01:11 PM
Did this write-up ever happen?  I looked around on 6tech and found 2 related topics but no write-up with pics.
[snapback]551427[/snapback]​
Check out dave's gallery. He has pics showing precisely where he mounted everything.
The install is actually very straightforward. I'm using the Derati Dexluxe Thermostatic fan controller from Summit.
 

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Sounds great. Now who the hell is dave? :headscrat:


Edit: Ok i'm guessing that's jrsy91gmc right? I'd still like a writeup cause I don't see what wires need to be spliced and most of those pics are such closeups I have no point of reference. Is the temp proba touching the radiator or just sticking in the shroud? Are the water temp pics for added gauges or is that related? And did he use something different cause there's 2 fan relays? Since you plan on doing it anyways how bout a little write-up? I'd offer beer as payment but you're a bit too far away to collect. I figure I can do this, thermostat, and flush all at the same time when i get back from my deployment in 6 months. Sitting that long = rust.
 

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I am not Dave.
 
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