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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello! Does anyone know what to check besides the head gasket for coolant in the oil? The car has 160k miles so a head gasket wouldn't be out of the question, but it compression tested fine so I just want to make sure to cover my bases before I slap a new gasket on and send it. It's a manual trans, if that matters.
 

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Hello! Does anyone know what to check besides the head gasket for coolant in the oil? The car has 160k miles so a head gasket wouldn't be out of the question, but it compression tested fine so I just want to make sure to cover my bases before I slap a new gasket on and send it. It's a manual trans, if that matters.
The water does not have to be moving from the jacket to the cylinder chamber for it to be a head gasket. The coolant can be moving through the head gasket to an oil passageway as well. The alternative would be cracked cylinder head but I would lean heavily to the head gasket. You'll know when you get in there. If you don't see a compromised gasket you'll have to look around.
Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The water does not have to be moving from the jacket to the cylinder chamber for it to be a head gasket. The coolant can be moving through the head gasket to an oil passageway as well. The alternative would be cracked cylinder head but I would lean heavily to the head gasket. You'll know when you get in there. If you don't see a compromised gasket you'll have to look around.
Good Luck.
243049

I didn't really see anything immediate when I pulled the head. Oh well, I guess I'll slap the new gasket on and send it!
 

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I think if you were not getting any steam in the exhaust it is the most likely cause.
Get both mating surfaces shiny clean and check with a good light at a high incidence angle across the surfaces.
I think you'll be okay however with a new gasket. Remember, 4 legs and a saddle? Horse, not Zebra.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I think if you were not getting any steam in the exhaust it is the most likely cause.
Get both mating surfaces shiny clean and check with a good light at a high incidence angle across the surfaces.
I think you'll be okay however with a new gasket. Remember, 4 legs and a saddle? Horse, not Zebra.
Found the crack in the head!
243050

243051
 

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I know an outfit or two that might be able to fix that, but the used head route will be much simpler (and quite possibly cheaper, too, in this case).
 

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I know an outfit or two that might be able to fix that, but the used head route will be much simpler (and quite possibly cheaper, too, in this case).
Furnace weld (or is that only for cast iron?)... probably TIG weld, then line bore and fit sleeves for the cams, mill head?
 

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Yeah it was only $280 for a used head. Just waiting on a head gasket from the dealership and I can start putting it all back together.
Yea, back in 1999 when i needed head work on my Talon, it was $120 JUST to tig weld the spot on the head to fill a hole. But a used head went for well over $500 for a naked shitty one.
 

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What could have caused that, I wonder? We now have two cases, one from you and one from the link posted.
 

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I would think the mostly cause would be overheating/lack of oiling. It’s rare to see on the 3rd gens especially 14-16 models but on the newer models 17- the heads do have a manufacturing defect in some instances where a crack will form by the #2 and 3 exhaust ports. This would be the first case I’ve seen of an early model but we actually had a 6 come in that blew a hole straight through the block. The 6 was a 15 with about 150k I believe and the guy who drove it didn’t really take care of it.
 

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Furnace weld (or is that only for cast iron?)... probably TIG weld, then line bore and fit sleeves for the cams, mill head?
The one I used most did a lot of furnace welding. Most of their business was heavy trucks and equipment. However, they did great TIG welding work also. I suppose I don’t know which they’d want to do here. I’d assume TIG, but IDK.
 
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