Mazda 6 Forums banner

1 - 20 of 71 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
If you try the coolant bypass to gain some HP - be careful! On my 2003 6s, the hose on the back side of the throttle body was stuck/difficult to get off. While I was wiggling it around, I broke off the connector at the other end of the hose where it connects to the plastic elbow in the larger coolant return hose. I should have been more careful, but be aware of how easy it is to break that piece.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,997 Posts
Samething happened to my store manager's 04 6S, replace it with a 5/8" plastic heater hose elbow found in any auto parts store. Then simply plug the line coming from the radiator with a pipe plug.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Originally posted by 84FordMan@Oct 30 2005, 07:20 PM
Samething happened to my store manager's 04 6S, replace it with a 5/8" plastic heater hose elbow found in any auto parts store. Then simply plug the line coming from the radiator with a pipe plug.
[snapback]546160[/snapback]​
Thanks for the tip! That beats my current "fix" - a screw and some thread-lock in the hole in the elbow. :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
168 Posts
Yeah, I think my jaw dropped when that piece broke off and coolant was spraying out. Didn't take much force at all to break it either. I ended up puting a screw and epoxy in the plastic "T" fitting and then epoxied the broken nipple into the hose so I could get to Pep Boys.

[attachmentid=15500]

You'll need a 3/4" 90° elbow from an auto or hardware store ($4). The stock "T" fitting is 3/4" and the 5/8" elbow as mentioned above was way too small for me. I also replaced the stock clamps with hose clamps ($2), since it was much easier to put on.

[attachmentid=15501]

This weekend I think I'll replace the other "T" fitting at the front/bottom with a straight fitting to eliminate the hose that goes up & used to connect to the throttle body.

-Nik
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
531 Posts
Same thing happened to me. That little nipple gets really brittle after a while and can break very easily. I took the elbow off completely, washed it thoroughly and used some JB Kwik weld and never had a problem since. Regular JB Weld will work very well too but the drying time is a lot longer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,106 Posts
JB weld on pastic? never heard that before.

If you wana do it right I would actually make 2 paths, one that goes through the TB and one that doesnt, with a valve. That way in the winter you could just turn the hot water to your TB back on and prevent any possible freezing issues. And considering it is the coolant system I would try to get some better parts like metal and secure them with hose clamps. You dont want a tiny leak becoming a huge problem down the raod.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
531 Posts
JB weld on pastic? never heard that before.

[/b]

Well you haven't heard it, but I've done it. The Kwik Weld is very much like an epoxy and is designed to bond to certain materials including plastic. Regular JB Weld should work just as well but it does not bond to certain plastics. I agree, the right way to fix it would be to replace it but I needed a quick fix and it worked much better than expected.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
111 Posts
I'm resurrecting this thread because i don't want to cause anymore confusion for the 2.3 guys and it seems this is the right topic.

Here's the original questions.

http://forum.mazda6club.com/index.php?show...93008&st=20

So for the older cars (03-06 maybe) you'll probably need a hose union and some clamps just in case the stock "T" fitting breaks.

The picture below helps so much. Thanks to icecreme98.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,468 Posts
I broke the T on the hose near the front of the car when I removed my coolant line all together. It is also 5/8".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
111 Posts
I just finished with the bypass, the "T" fitting on newer cars will probably not break if you're careful. Also, no other parts are really needed as Awong has mentioned before. The stock hose clamps works fine.

All in all the mod was about 15mins. I took off the TB which made the mod even easier also, i wanted to see how hard the install for the OTB will be......Not hard at all. :yesnod:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
802 Posts
I broke mine also and just put a screw in there along with silicone... you don't need it open any more since you already by-passed the tb.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
667 Posts
Just took a trip to the stealership and here is what I found out about that t-fitting piece (if anybody breaks it and wants to replace it). Its part of a water hose assembly kit (which means you can't buy the piece by its self). They had a kit in stock when I went.

part#: GK3K-61-24XH
cost: $47.23 + tax
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
QUOTE
part#: GK3K-61-24XH
cost: $47.23 + tax[/b]
+1!

You just saved me from ordering (and waiting for) the thermostat case.
The kit (hose + T pipe labeled "Hose") was in stock, $50.

The dealer mis-diagnosed my description (phoned in), but was quite
helpful and once he learned I had a tentative part number worked
back from the hose to match it to my car.

For the thermostat housing, he even gave me the equivalent Ford
part number since there are more local Ford dealers. I wonder
how many other parts are interchangeable with Ford vehicles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
213 Posts
that is the part that broke on me in colombus last weekend. im a little glad that im not the only person that has broken this part
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
QUOTE (jbcope @ Oct 30 2005, 05:10 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=546030
If you try the coolant bypass to gain some HP - be careful! On my 2003 6s, the hose on the back side of the throttle body was stuck/difficult to get off. While I was wiggling it around, I broke off the connector at the other end of the hose where it connects to the plastic elbow in the larger coolant return hose. I should have been more careful, but be aware of how easy it is to break that piece.[/b]
What kind of problems can that cause? I put a CAI on my car, and since then I noticed a large cloud of white/grey smoke on a cold start. I was reading that it is most likely a head gasket going, but can breaking this piece during the install do the same?

HELP?!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
QUOTE (andras @ May 28 2009, 12:27 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1565670
+1!

You just saved me from ordering (and waiting for) the thermostat case.
The kit (hose + T pipe labeled "Hose") was in stock, $50.

The dealer mis-diagnosed my description (phoned in), but was quite
helpful and once he learned I had a tentative part number worked
back from the hose to match it to my car.

For the thermostat housing, he even gave me the equivalent Ford
part number since there are more local Ford dealers. I wonder
how many other parts are interchangeable with Ford vehicles.[/b]
What a waste of money. I went to the part store and got a 90 degree elbow, plus a scrap piece of the bigger hose and then a T fitting. Did some trimming on the hose that leads down to the back of the engine compartment, installed the new parts that I bought. Cost me like $10, if that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
I also broke the T connector while I was doing a coolant bypass, and was just wandering what is the purpose of the hose that connects to the "T". I mean do we really need it or can I just plug the hole in the T and leave it alone? I would appreciate any advice guys!
 
1 - 20 of 71 Posts
About this Discussion
70 Replies
39 Participants
e4w
Mazda 6 Forums
Mazda6club.com is a forum dedicated to the Mazda6 / Atenza. Come and discuss reliability, performance, modifications, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Top