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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,
so Janet (yes I call my car Janet now) has developed some knocking noise in the front end. It's coming from both sides at different times, sometimes the same time depending on the terrain. Big bumps and speed bumps don't affect it as much going up, but coming down on the speed bumps I hear it more, and on shallow pot holes. I think it's the control arm bushings, but not 100% certain... so I posted some pics too to see if anyone can tell me if these bushings are in fact garbage. They don't look good. Are they toast?
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First one is definitely shot. Second one already has some minor cracks so I'd replace them both.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
First one is definitely shot. Second one already has some minor cracks so I'd replace them both.
Thanks jman. I'll order up some new ones... doesn't look too bad as far as install goes. I think I'm going to do that polyurethane filler on the new ones . Might as well since they'll be off the car and easy to get to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Its not fair to take pics with the wheels off the ground cause it distorts them. I wouldnt worry about them and honesty, not sure if they can be replaced without he whole arm.
I did think about that when taking the pics, but still.. they look to be in pretty bad shape. And I'm not sure what else the knocking would be since it's coming from both sides, and definitely sounds like it's coming from closer to the ground (as opposed to a strut mount or something). The sway bar bushings all looked ok too. When I push down on the car I only hear noise coming from close to the ground on both sides, but it's more pronounced on the pass side.

I plan on doing the entire control arm though... it'd be more expensive and time consuming to have someone press the new bushings than it would just to replace the whole thing myself. Thanks Talon (y)
 

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I had both my front lower control arms replaced on my 2014 GT last month at 105,000 miles, clunking noises are gone. Seemed like reasonable mileage for a wear & tear item.
 

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This is definitely shot and under load, those two metal components could come in contact:

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This one is not from a Mazda but when these bushings are bad, A can come in contact with B since the arm is no longer properly "suspended".

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You can get aftermarket press-in bushing but I've never had good luck with those. If you are planning on keeping the car for a while buy OEM. Tried different aftermarket brands on a Toyota Sienna and all failed within a year. Same happened with a Mazda 626 and 323 I used to own.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You can get aftermarket press-in bushing but I've never had good luck with those. If you are planning on keeping the car for a while buy OEM. Tried different aftermarket brands on a Toyota Sienna and all failed within a year. Same happened with a Mazda 626 and 323 I used to own.
I'm not even messing with just bushings, when these get fixed it'll be the whole control arm.
The only control arms I can even find are OEM Mazda. No "local" parts stores sell one that I can find, but some online OEM vendors have them for a whopping $200 a piece. #&@$ that seems high.

I'm gonna get in there with a wrench and make sure I don't have loose bolts first tho. Thanks all for the feedback 🍻
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It could be the strut for all I know . I had a friend push down on the front end and I listened for the sound. Didn't sound like it was coming from the control arm. And it was hard to see with it on the ground, but it didn't look like the control arm bushings were shot enough for metal on metal contact (but they still look bad imo).
Sounded more like it was coming from the strut. Would be great news since that would be a good reason to stiffen it up and lower it an inch or so.
 

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I wish someone made solid poly bushings instead of the engineered holey ones.
Fill the holes in the bushings with Black silicone RTV. Just be sure to do it when the car is sitting on them weighted. Let it cure before you drive.
I wont be quite a rigid as poly bu it will be a reasonable street worthy compromise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Fill the holes in the bushings with Black silicone RTV. Just be sure to do it when the car is sitting on them weighted. Let it cure before you drive.
I wont be quite a rigid as poly bu it will be a reasonable street worthy compromise.
I'm definitely interested in doing that. I saw the How-To thread a while back and it looks pretty easy... messy, but not too difficult.
I'm going to have a mechanic look at my car before I do anything. If they say the bushings are fine and have plenty of life left on them maybe I'll silicone or poly them up. Otherwise, just might order new control arms and mod them off the car before I install them.
I was certain those bushings were done for, but now I'm not so sure lol.
 

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2004 Mazda 6s Wagon ATX
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I wish someone made solid poly bushings instead of the engineered holey ones.
I'm definitely interested in doing that. I saw the How-To thread a while back and it looks pretty easy... messy, but not too difficult.
I'm going to have a mechanic look at my car before I do anything. If they say the bushings are fine and have plenty of life left on them maybe I'll silicone or poly them up. Otherwise, just might order new control arms and mod them off the car before I install them.
I would recommend against this. The spaces and tolerances are designed with everything weighted. If at all possible I would inject the silicone while the bushing are installed and it is standing on all four paws.

EDIT: This also applied to the final torquing of the suspension bushing parts. Tighten everything with the vehicle suspension siting at normal operating height. @RandallCunninghamJrIII

Attach a hose to your silicone tube if it is hard to reach and put it on wheel stands (lift?) to gain more access.
 

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Swap them for control arms from the latest KF CX5, they are exact replacement for Mazda 6 but have a much improved bushing setup that has done away with this tuna can bushing and instead has a much narrower concentric tube like design. We in Asia prettyuch don't use these tuna can arms and don't bother looking for poly ones as the CX5 arms engineered the problem away.
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Swap them for control arms from the latest KF CX5, they are exact replacement for Mazda 6 but have a much improved bushing setup that has done away with this tuna can bushing and instead has a much narrower concentric tube like design. We in Asia pretty much don't use these tuna can arms and don't bother looking for poly ones as the CX5 arms engineered the problem away.
Oh? Same fit for the 3 too then?
 
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