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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've decided to make my own guide since I finally got all my parts yesterday. I'm going to be changing the rotors and pads and painting the calipers. It might take me a bit of time though since it's half raining today. :(
I'm going to re-edit with my own pictures and words what I had compiled from other people. I hope it'll be useful to others!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Just hit a snag which cost me an hour of time, my caliper bolts were seized. Walked by foot to Value auto and bought some liquid Mr Wrench. Worked well! Taking a temporary break from the rain outside.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hmm, struck another road bump. The second half of the calipers were seized so hard it took me two hours of hitting it with a hammer and wrench to get them out. I will have to stop for today since it's getting dark. Looks like I'll have to finish tomorrow. Only thing left to do is drill out the screws and re-assemble!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I tried using a torch to heat up the outside of the rotor near the screws, but even then they wouldn't come off. So I'll have to resort to drilling them off.

I bought my car from a dealership 2 years ago and they machined the rotors and replaced the pads before giving it to me. Whoever did the job was a lazy moron because when this person put it back together, he didn't put any grease or anti-seize on any of the bolts, screws or anything. This is why my rotors and calipers are seized so bad.
 

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at least they are easier to drill out then wood. lol. takes like 5 sec's each to drill out. if your careful, and just drill the head off. once you pull the rotor, there will still be the stud of the screw left, and you can use vice grips to remove whats left.

now if you just went to sears, and bought a impact driver, they would have came right off. ;)
 

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i know you probably shouldn't use it on high torque bolts because you risk stressing the bolt when tightening it.
This is correct; unless you use a compensation factor for fastening torque you'll end up over stressing the bolt and/or the mating surfaces and/or the threads. Most good lubricants and anti-seize compounds will have documentation with a formula or a compensation factor for calculating the torque needed to maintain the same approximate stress.

The problem now is that you've still reduced the friction in the threads (and maybe at the bolt head mating surface) which means the bolt is less likely to stay 'locked'.

On top of that if any of the lube gets at the mating surfaces of what you're clamping then the maximum allowable shear rating of the joint drops dramatically even if the normal force from the bolt is 'correct'.

Basically for anything that *must* not come loose (such has caliper bracket) no lube or anti seize compounds (most anyway) should be used unless the part has been designed for it (although a lot of people get away with it lol).

What you can usually use safely though is threadlocker... an epoxy such as loctite. Threadlockers will prevent corrosion without the problems of lubes and most anti seize compounds.

From my experience caliper bolts that have been properly torqued to begin with usually come off easily though.. a lot of people way over do it thinking that have to be super tight and hammer them on instead of using a torque wrench
 
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