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Discussion Starter #1
Just got a speed 6 and the damn clutch is slipping, Does anyone know if there is a write up on how to replace it. I have searched and didnt come up wtih anything. Thanks guys. I appoligize if this is one of those redundent forum questions.
 

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Lowspeed
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Discussion Starter #3
Well thats better than nothing, i have a friend thats a mechanic and he got me the all data write up just kinda crappy.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Has anyone done a clutch that has some words of wisdom before i start i am hoping to get it done in 3 days.
 

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Lowspeed
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Bearing in mind that I've not done it myself (yet)

What clutch/FW combo are you choosing?

- Strongly consider dropping the sub-frame. Makes extracting and replacing the trans much easier with the extra room
- Can be a one day job, folks who have done a couple have it down to ~4 hours
- Trans jack or similar will make life much easier, so will a second set of hands
- Be sure to replace both the TOB and the Pilot bearing. Some folks have reported an annoying clicking sound if both aren't done, especially when going with certain aftermarket C/FW combinations
- Take a good look at the release fork and replace if it looks rough.

Other than those, it's just a clutch. Remove cables, sensors & hydraulics, drop, swap & reverse.

Be sure to get an alignment again if you drop the sub-frame...

Take lots of pics, and do a post on it :thumbup:


.
 

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I wouldnt do it. There is a pto with coolant line that needs to be undone but before that there is the drive shaft. Oh the nightmares. I replaced mine some 2 years ago and I am babying because its such a PITA to replace. If you are brave though dont screw around with the coolant line on the pto. And try to replace with oem. Unless like me you dont mind a little rattle from the lack of a dual mass flywheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I am just going to go with an exedy stock one i have it on my fd and it holds pretty good. The flywheel i will proble just have reground since my dad owns a napa and i get it done free. Yeah i am planning on taking an extra day of work off just so i can get it done i am totaly dreading it but this totaly sucks have a quick car and not being able to step on it. Im sure i will get though it but i know its going to suck. Thanks for the input guys and what is a pto im new to the 6 not real versed in its workings yet.
 

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Lowspeed
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Good luck. I don't think I have the patience for it. Hope mine stays good for a long time. It should as I drive like an old man most of the time. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah i bought mine from a young kid and pretty sure he was doing some launches lol. I went and had a quote for just the labor they want 1200 bucks so looks like im on my own. I was under the car scoping out my plan of attack and found an aftermarket oil catch can and what looks to be a aftermarket motor mount, i also found kyb shocks, not sure if those came stock or not.
 

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OEM Shocks are indeed KYB's, custom valved for the Speed. That's actually one of the interesting bits about the speed- Suspension stuff is available all over for the normal 6, but can be tough to spot for the heavier Speed variant.

Springs & shocks are both something to keep a watchful eye on so that you get proper replacements and not underrated standard 6 bits.

The OCC and RMM are both good things and you can be happy that they've been done. :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I am fabbing up a little short ram intake from things i had laying around from the fd. Cuz 200 bucks for one is just stupid, I am going to mill a piece for the map sensor and weld it on to my new pipe. Arggg i am suposto keep this thing stock but i can t help myself i cant even hear the turbo. I plugged the return line and vented the bov and it seemed to not like that dropping idle sometimes any idea. good thing i am a welder and machinist cuz that shit is expensive. I think i may delete the mufflers and just go strait back from there so hopefully its not to loud.
 

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Lowspeed
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Be aware that changing the inside diameter of the MAF location will change your fuel trims and likely impact driveability without having a tuner that will allow MAF Calibration.

There is some leeway during low throttle, low load situations when the car is in closed loop and the ECU can compensate by adding fuel to reach programmed targets, but in high throttle, high load open loop situations you will be running lean with a larger MAF area and the ECU has no way to compensate.

Picking up a Cobb AccessPORT (AP) will allow you to correct, and essentially spread eagles the ECU for tuning and logging.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Anyone have some ideas on where i can find a stock clutch kit, found the luk one on ebay of course he doesnt have it in stock and he said he called the manufacture and they couldnt even give him a date. My dad owns a napa store and he is calling to see if they have any cuz they dont list having any. There is no mazda dealer close nor do i have the money to dish out for dealership prices. Anyone have any ideas, its a bitch finding parts for a car they only made two years.
 

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yeah, but PG has been out of stock forever now
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well i think im going to go with the act from street unit since I most likely need a flywheel anyway. Not sure which one i should go with the organic or the 4 puck. I plan to do some autocrossing with the car and also daily drive it. I am kinda leaning toward the organic cuz i have drove an rx7 with a 6 puck and it was pretty harsh. Anyone know how bad the 4 puck is for drive ability.
 

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You should get the CPE clutch kit. It's basically a Clutchmasters kit for double the price! trolololol

GL with the install hombre. I'm not brave enough to attempt that job. :)
 
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