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Discussion Starter #1
Can someone please help me because this is driving me crazy. I'm not going to go to the dealership and pay crazy money to get this fixed and I can handle mostly anything you guys will throw at me.. I hope. So my clutch is sticking a few inches down every time I shift. I have to put my foot under and pop it back up... EVERY TIME. Its sticking right at the top of where it engages. I don't think that it is engages at all where it is sticking but its way too close for comfort. I'm attached some pictures of whats going on. Its not my master or slave cylinders.
This youtube video is going to give you the best view and understanding though: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UtCH1OVFBH8&feature=youtu.be

Thanks guys!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Its a 2006 Mazdaspeed6. I really just hope someone knows enough about this stuff to tell me what parts it most likely is and what I can replace myself.
 

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Sounds like the TOB is going, or is getting stuck during it's return travel. Our clutch assemblies are well known for causing trouble with pedal return.

You can tell by watching the slave cylinder & actuator arm travel while another person presses & releases the clutch pedal.
 

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I'll check that out tonight. I was thinking it was the springs but I sprayed the hell out of them and it didn't help at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Reading some stuff about the TOB, it seems like there is a lot of noise associated with it when its going bad. I have no had this issue at all. It's just the failure to return all the way up. No noise or anything else.
 

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This is similar what happens when air is in the system. I'd say your clutch line needs to be bled or replaced. Done any work with your brakes or master/slave cylinders lately?

I threw up a DIY for it on my v6 (in addition to swapping out to a stainless line), should be the same on your speed - it even uses the same line.

http://www.6crew.com/forum/showthread.php?23562-DIY-SS-Clutch-Line-Install-3-0l
 

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Discussion Starter #8
This is similar what happens when air is in the system. I'd say your clutch line needs to be bled or replaced. Done any work with your brakes or master/slave cylinders lately?

I threw up a DIY for it on my v6 (in addition to swapping out to a stainless line), should be the same on your speed - it even uses the same line. www.6crew.com/forum/showthread.php?23562-DIY-SS-Clutch-Line-Install-3-0l
Nope, no work on the car in a while. It has also been progressively getting worse. Also, your link doesn't seem to be working
 

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I would check for a failing clutch line, a bad master or perhaps the clutch is giving up the ghost. Seems as though throw out bearings these days don't make noise when they fail. They just mess up your day.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
 

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Always want to eliminate all the external and easy to get to parts, of course! They're both easier to work on and substantially less expensive!

Alas, the stock Speed6 clutch is well known for having pedal return issues in it's later life, mine included. When I had it apart it was the TOB that was unable to travel smoothly on the shaft due to a combination of old grease and all the clutch dust that had worked into the same grease. As a result it would disengage fine and only release to a certain point, needing the extra nudge from your toe to return completely.

The only fix I know of for the problem is to pull the trans and clean & replace. The only good part is that if your seeing this symptom then your clutch is pretty close to worn out anyway.

MSF has a great how-to on the speed6 clutch. With the addition of the transfer case/PTO it's a bit of a PITA to get apart. You'll want to get the extra room from dropping the sub-frame for sure. There are several different bolt lengths, and I suggest a large piece of cardboard and place the bolts in a pattern through the cardboard so you can easily return the proper bolts where they belong.

How to Replace Clutch MS6! - Mazdaspeed Forums

How-To: Clutch Install Mazdaspeed6 - Mazdaspeed Forums


 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well that sure as hell doesn't look easy. Going to have to give it a shot though because im not paying Mazda an arm and a led to do this for me and taking the chance of them screwing other stuff up.
 

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If you have tools and skills, You can do the clutch in a weekend. Take your time, do it one step at a time and you'll be fine. It's not hard, just a PITA. I did mine while swapping the engine, so it was a "while your there" sort of thing.

The big question is what clutch and flywheel do you want to / need to run?

If you have skilled friends then this would be a great weekend to throw a BBQ and get their favorite beer for during & their favorite beverage in general for after... :)

(might wanna skip the hard liquor for the "during" :) )
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Haha, yeah my dad does autobody and is very handy so I have a garage and all the tools I would need to get the job done. The car has 157k miles on it so its not worth upgrading to anything serious. I'm just trying to make it last and not let it fall apart one piece at a time. The oil seals on the turbo are already shot so I dont get on it anymore unless I want to leave a cloud behind me and burn a bunch of oil... :(
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So I realized my front brakes are also having a problem. Looks like they are touching the caliper a little. Making noise when I drive. This happened with my rear caliber a while ago and I had to replace it and no problems since. The fact that both of them are looking like this at the same time makes me wonder if maybe these issues are related and there is a problem with my lines like other people have suggested? Not too sure how to check it or what I would do about it though.. :frown2:
 

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Would check the master and slave cylinder (though I'm sure how to test them, just seems like this is where the issue could be). There are vacuum lines there that might have developed a hole. Also, your clutch operates with brake fluid (slave cylinder that piggybacks off the master cylinder for your brake system), so you might just need to bleed/flush the whole system. Wouldn't be a bad time to swap in all stainless lines (the full Techna-fit setup should only set you back around $130 IIRC, maybe less) and some nice quality fluid (ATE TYP 200 or Superblue if you can find it).
 

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Discussion Starter #19
While I went on vacation, my dad brought it over to a mechanic to check it out and they ended up replacing the slave cylinder. They also noticed that the clutch pedal had a crack higher up on the bar. They welded that together too. Seems to be working much better now. Sticks once in a while but overall it normally returns. Just needs to last me as many miles as possible at this point.
 

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Cool- Hope it lasts for you!!

You've now done everything I did, prior to finally replacing the clutch (the engine was out anyway) which actually resolved the issue :)
 
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