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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys just wondering for those with a manual have any of you all had any failures or needed replacement of any of the manual transmission components like Clutch, TOB, Slave cylinder, Clutch master cylinder etc?
I ask because I know the Mazda 3 has had multiple post of clutch failure as early as 25K in which I believe there is a class-action lawsuit (Don't Quote me on it)& we all know Mazda is known for great Manual transmissions & weak a$$ clutches.
I ask because for example my previous car (Genesis) the TOB were known for failure around 75K & clutches would fail once you tune the car (I experienced this 1st hand).
I want to make sure that when I feel like pushing the car I don't have to be worried about drive train failure being a upgraded clutch & labor will be over $1K :frown2:
 

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130k on mine, zero problems.

Clutches are one of those things that if you know how to drive one and don't abuse it, will last a VERY long time. My '03 VW has nearly 250,000 miles on it and is on the FACTORY clutch. It's got bigger nozzles in it as well.

IF you upgrade the power output you need to be careful; exceeding what the clutch can hold in torque is obviously a problem but AGAIN that's a matter of HOW YOU DRIVE. With bigger nozzles I *CAN* slip the clutch in the VW in 5th gear; the answer is DON'T DO THAT. When it requires replacement due to wear I'll be putting in a stronger one, of course.

I have a friend of mine that managed to destroy TWO clutches in 40,000 miles. After riding with him a couple of times I can say with absolute confidence there was utterly nothing wrong with the design of the car -- it was the jackass in the left seat that caused the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
130k on mine, zero problems.

Clutches are one of those things that if you know how to drive one and don't abuse it, will last a VERY long time. My '03 VW has nearly 250,000 miles on it and is on the FACTORY clutch. It's got bigger nozzles in it as well.

IF you upgrade the power output you need to be careful; exceeding what the clutch can hold in torque is obviously a problem but AGAIN that's a matter of HOW YOU DRIVE. With bigger nozzles I *CAN* slip the clutch in the VW in 5th gear; the answer is DON'T DO THAT. When it requires replacement due to wear I'll be putting in a stronger one, of course.

I have a friend of mine that managed to destroy TWO clutches in 40,000 miles. After riding with him a couple of times I can say with absolute confidence there was utterly nothing wrong with the design of the car -- it was the jackass in the left seat that caused the problem.
I absolutely agree it's driver related which will pend of the life of clutch. I was just seeing across the board has anyone had any sort of failure because I haven't seen any post of any which is a good thing, I bought my car used so idk how the previous owner drove this thing. I will definitely be upgrading my clutch when needed to a Spec stage 1 being they're the only aftermarket company that i'm aware of that make one for the 3rd Gen Mazda 6.
 

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My understanding is that the clutch in the SkyActiv Mazdas is the same one used in the diesels overseas (which we can't get.) It certainly appears to be, as it feels like a DMF unit (I haven't taken the trans out and looked); DMF clutches are almost-never built or spec'd for gas-powered cars, but are extremely common on diesels as most diesels will rattle horribly at idle and in neutral with a SMF clutch.

IF indeed the stock unit is indeed the same as that used for the diesels overseas then IMHO there is utterly no way you're going to get anything of value out of "upgrading" it. There's no "large" power boost available with these engines irrespective of what you do with them anyway since they do not have forced induction.
 

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I have almost 135K on mine and it still grabs strong. I ran one of my old Mazdapeed protege's up to 155k on the original clutch with a bunch of bolt on mods without ever having an issue. I sold that car to a local who drove the car up to 180+k before he tuned up the boost and blew the engine. As everyone said, the driver makes all the difference with how long a clutch will last.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm only running Corksport intake & axle-back exhaust so I don't expect the clutch to burn out hopefully anytime soon. Now if I installed the OV Tune then wear would increase.
 

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I got my 2017 Mazda6 with the 6MTX in... well....May of 2017 ~_~. Just had my 30,000 mile service and the clutch is as grippy as the day I got it. I wouldn't be surprised if I got 100k-150K out of it or more.
 
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