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Clutch pdal Assembly

38K views 32 replies 20 participants last post by  timcorina2316 
#1 ·
So as you can see Part of the assembly that is bolted onto the firewall through the inside compartment is broken in two places...Just wondering if anybody has had this problem. The stealership wants $120 for the part and $230 for labor!
At first I had checked under the pedal cause my pedal would get stuck half way then pop back up and I've read that sometimes its a screw thats loose or one of the sensors...well lo' and behold I found this other problem-sucks!!
Oh anyone think this could have contribute to the pedal getting stuck too?
 

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#2 ·
noooo waaaay. That sucks man. I'll check mine but i've never seen this problem before.
 
#3 ·
QUOTE (jack9484 @ Aug 5 2009, 02:47 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1589131
So as you can see Part of the assembly that is bolted onto the firewall through the inside compartment is broken in two places...Just wondering if anybody has had this problem. The stealership wants $120 for the part and $230 for labor!
At first I had checked under the pedal cause my pedal would get stuck half way then pop back up and I've read that sometimes its a screw thats loose or one of the sensors...well lo' and behold I found this other problem-sucks!!
Oh anyone think this could have contribute to the pedal getting stuck too?[/b]


The same thing just happended to mine, when i press the clutch pedal in it doesnt come out all the unless i tap it.. I went under and saw it craked but not as bad as this.

DID YOU EVER FIND ANY ANSWERS
 
#4 ·
Did you ever figure out how to fix it? I have exactly the same issue. I think I will just mold a metal bracket to fit on top, then just weld it in. $230 for labor??? damn it took me 20 mins to remove the whole thing.
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#5 ·
Jesus guys I would definately get that to Mazda, that should be a repair free of charge, that could seriously fuck up you n your ride. that screams defect.



B
 
#6 ·
I just got this, too. I will post pics. This is tied to my clutch problem in an earlier thread. But it is a bracket failure that led to feeling like my clutch was failing and the pedal was getting stuck down near the floor. the spot weld didn't fail - the bracket failed from some fatigue crap!
 
#7 ·
here's the offending pedal and the crack in the rear bracket. made the clutch feel like it was dying. so, i have a new pedal now and a fresh clutch and fresh flywheel in the car. the last two items and the associated labor costs are things i probably didn't need at all if the pedal had been ID as the problem. :mad:
 

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#8 ·
We just found the same issue with our 03 6i. The car has 149K on it and the clutch pedal was starting to stick to the floor. Thought it was the master cylinder, so we replaced that. Still had the problem with the pedal sticking … upon closer inspection we found that the bracket was cracked and fractured. The attached image is as if you were looking up at the clutch pedal assembly from the floor. We had a friend tack weld it back together so we could get it home. We ordered the assembly from Mazda (p/n GK2C41300C) for $119….


 
#9 ·
Removal & Install

Question:
How easy is it to remove and install the entire assembly. i have the same issue I took the 6 to a Mechanic and he said my master & slave cylinders are fine(which i originally thought the problem was) He said my clutch pedal assembly needs to change. The Dealer in silver Spring MD wants $800 for labor so I quickly walked out... Any tips on how to do it would be welcome... things i should remove or look out for that the write up doesn't tell you
 
#11 ·
How to Replace the clutch pedal assembly

This was easier than I thought and because no one had posted anything on here about it, I wasn't sure on how difficult it may be.

First thing you need to do is remove the battery and plastic battery tray. I think the terminals are 8mm and the tray has 2 10mm nuts in the bottom.

Against the firewall on the right of the brake reservoir is where you will find 1 1/2" nut, I used a 6 or 8 inch extension. The other nut you loosen from the inside. Unbolt this nut on the firewall in the engine compartment and then go inside.

There is the one remaining nut on the inside on where your bracket is most likely broken and one more up higher. I didn't realize until I was finished, but you can see this nut if you look through the gap next to the steering wheel. The one on top is also a 1/2", and it looks like you can just loosen and slide the pedal off but I completely removed it.

Once the pedal is unbolted, I used a body panel tool to pop the wiring harness off the side of the bracket and then turn the switch that is attached. Once you turn it, it will come out, twist lock, not sure what direction though. There is another harness and switch on the other side which you can get a better look at once the other harness is removed, it is easy to pull off once you see it.

Once that is done, its out. That simple. Install in reverse, starting with the installation of the last switch you pulled off.

Sorry no pictures but it really is that easy. Definitely need to remove the battery and tray to get complete access. Also, you may need to stretch because of the fun angle you are going to be at under the dash.


The only issue I noticed after all said and done is that I have to push the clutch almost to the radiator to get it to start. I would imagine that one of the switches needs to be adjusted in or out to allow me to start it a little easier. If anyone knows post it up. Haven't found anything yet saying how to do this.
 
#12 ·
i actually just came across this problem myself... i just called the mazda dealer in town and the part is going for 135... sucks, but thank you for the step by step... i'll be doing this project next weekend... hopefully it holds out for the next week while i do it
 
#13 ·
i installed the new pedal... everything is fine... i did run into the problem that SS_Hobby ran into... when i pushed the clutch in the car didn't start... but when i pushed the sensor with my finger it did start... all i did was bend the piece of the pedal a slight bit towards the sensor and BAM no problem... hope that might help you out a bit
 
#16 ·
I took mines to a local shop. They welded it back together and reinforced the backing.

It's been working like a champ for the past few years now without any problems.
 
#17 ·
Replaced my clutch pedal today. It is indeed pretty easy.

A few things:
- I used 3 and 6 inch extensions, and regular depth as well as deep 12mm sockets, to reach all 3 nuts that hold the clutch on. A deep 12mm socket is definitely necessary.
- I broke off the head of the bolt that holds my battery tie-down on. I wish I'd sprayed some PB blaster on this first before attempting to remove it.
- I had the same issue that others did where the clutch interlock switch wasn't getting depressed sufficiently to allow the car to start. I believe the current clutch pedal part must be slightly different, and actually if you look at the photo of the kill switch for an 03-05 Mazda6 on Rosenthal Mazda's web page, the plunger looks longer. Anyway, I put a felt furniture pad thing on the end of the red plastic piece that depresses the switch, and that worked. The Shop Manual says to adjust the "terminal" on the switch. I took the switch apart and it's true that you could probably slide cover of the switch where the wires plug in (leaving the switch partly open) so that it closes the circuit without having the plunger fully depressed, but I don't think that would work very well.. the terminal part of the cover would be able to fly off pretty easily. So maybe I didn't understand what the shop manual was saying, or they are referring to a different switch design.
- the only adjustment I made to the new pedal was to reduce the free play a bit
 
#18 ·
My clutch pedal in my '04 6S V6 hatchback finally snapped today and I can no longer depress the pedal to disengage the clutch and shift to drive. I posted this on Safercar.gov in hopes that there will be enough who have done this and get Mazda to open a recall on this. It's an extreme safety issue. Imagine being on the highway and not being able to shift down or to neutral when at speed or in an emergency situation. This clutch pedal assembly was NOT stress tested for enough cycles. I blame the Ford plant in Flat Rock for this. My car is 12 years old this coming weekend and has 165,000 miles. The clutch pedal has been acting up for more than a year, and I just thought it needed grease on the return spring... wow, little did I know how bad this situation really is. It's cracked in 3 key places, so it's done.
 

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#22 ·
......The clutch pedal has been acting up for more than a year, and I just thought it needed grease on the return spring... wow, little did I know how bad this situation really is. It's cracked in 3 key places, so it's done.

OK, I edited out the beginning and let's focus on what I have boldtyped. It had been acting up for a year, you never got it looked at, it broke and now you blame Mazda? Do you see what you did wrong there?
 
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#19 ·
You do realize your car is 12 years old, right? These things do happen. Transmissions even fail, but it's not a recall issue. This is hardly a recall issue. I put 172000 moles on a Factory setup, and my pedal never even weakened. Wear and tear, my friend.

Sent from the wrong side of the tracks.
 
#23 · (Edited)
It always cracks me up when someone replies to something I've said using a tone with so much scorn. Gee, thanks for pointing out that my car is 12 years old. "Things" do happen, yes, but there's a reason the NHTSA and IIHS exist, and it's to improve vehicles so that they don't take lives when being used. I've never heard of a car who's clutch pedal fails due to the fact that it's mounting frame is made from light gage metal that wasn't optimized for the geometric forces placed on it during it's lifetime. If clutch pedals break while you're at speed, preventing you from shifting, you could crash (mostly due to the shock of what's happening) and kill yourself or others.

I've had two Mazda manual transmissions fail too in previous cars. They're not durable. My current one has had synchronizer issues since it was new and I'm on my second tranny, which has the same problem. Improper assembly of the 3rd synchronizer gear I was told by my dealership's Master Mechanic. Wear and tear my friend? Imagine your steering wheel coming off in your hand mid-corner. Same idea. Clutch pedals should not fail, period.
 
#20 ·
There shouldn't be a reason you couldn't shift out of gear to neutral (and if you are good you can even speed match and shift into another gear without the clutch). This would be no different than the clutch slave or master cylinder failing.


I have seen other posts here where this has cracked, but I didn't have that problem on my 2004 6s with 323,000 miles before the engine recently failed.


Scott
 
#25 ·
The frame for the pedal failed in such a way that the portion of the frame which meets the firewall was lifting off the firewall, preventing the pushrod from entering the master cylinder to provide any hydraulic pressure on the slave cylinder. The frame cracked down by the bottom bolts, then again at the top bolt and then pulled off the firewall. Never a dull moment with an older car. I have no explanation as to why one would fail then someone like you had zero problems for 323,000 miles. Inexplicable. When I hold the old one in my hand and look at it up close, it's as if the metal was improperly formulated, as it's fragmented in an odd way. Almost like shards. And there are standoffs at the actual bolts, meaning the frame of the clutch pedal does not sit flat on the firewall. This might mean that there is potential for eccentric forces on the metal. Who knows.
 
#26 · (Edited)
You may have purchased the Titanic.

Honestly, I'm on my fourth Mazda since 1981, and clutch issues have never been a thing with any of them. Not saying that yours didn't have some sort of issue, but honestly I don't think it's time to ring up the NHTSA and start recall proceedings like it was an exploding Pinto. There is a chance that your angle of foot application is stressing the pedal mount on the firewall. Or not.

But I really don't think a recall is in order.


p.s. Not looking for a pissing match, here. But not every failed part constitutes a crisis.
 
#27 ·
I had this issue a few years back at around 140k miles on my 2004 6s. I got the Mazdaspeed clutch(installed by Mazda in 09), which requires more effort to depress the clutch. I drive my car HARD daily, even now at 204k miles...Lol. Maybe the pedal assembly wasn't built for drivers like me and certain mods...

What kind of mtx gear oil are/were you using? Mazda uses GL-4..some people were using royal purple and such GL-5 oils, destroying their trans.
 
#33 ·
So as you can see Part of the assembly that is bolted onto the firewall through the inside compartment is broken in two places...Just wondering if anybody has had this problem. The stealership wants $120 for the part and $230 for labor! At first I had checked under the pedal cause my pedal would get stuck half way then pop back up and I've read that sometimes its a screw thats loose or one of the sensors...well lo' and behold I found this other problem-sucks!! Oh anyone think this could have contribute to the pedal getting stuck too?
Yes it's a common thing in the 8 I just replaced mine but I reinforced my new one before I installed it they only put two spot welds to hold it together from the factory I ran a bead around the entire thing I advise everyone too do it before it breaks. Good luck
 
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