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K, well being new around here i should introduce myself My name is Ty i own a 2006 Mazda 6 3.0 v6 and i live around NE Phoenix. I absolutely love my car (even though at times i dont think the feeling is mutual). My 6 is completely stock, and currently has about 35,000 miles, this past Friday i was driving home from work when i went to down shift i notice the clutch pedal didnt come back up, I was able to coast off the freeway and pull onto a side street. Once i got out of the car i immediately noticed a sulfur smell.

To make a short story long i took my car to the dealership the next day (Chapman.. same place i bought the car) and had them look at. Six hours later (and $60 bucks) i was told that yes it was in fact my clutch and NO its not covered under warranty. I was quoted some absurd amount ($1100 for labor, $270 for a new clutch and maybe another $200 for a fly wheel). First of ive driven stick shift for a long long time and i was shocked that it failed so quickly.

Moving along to my real question im looking to upgrade my stock clutch and fly wheel, i cant afford to replace my clutch every 2 years (i don't race and i don't drive like a maniac) I'm wondering what a good combo of clutch and fly wheel would be? Exedy (stage 1) and fidanza fly wheel? Or if any any one here has any other recommendation? And also if anyone knows if the parts can be purchased locally? I'm willing to make a trip to pick them up but i would like to avoid having to ship them. My main concern is i dont want to have to replace my clutch again after another 35,000 miles, and since i have to replace the damn thing it would be nice to get an upgrade. So please please throw out some ideas
 

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if i were you i would go with the clutchmasters FX100 or the exedy stage one both r better than stock in terms of life span and holding capacity and should last you the life of your car!
i would then go with the fidanza over the exedy because the the fidanza (8pounds) is lighter than the exedy (12 pounds) and they r both the same price and build quality is great on the fidanza!
 

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I got my clutch replaced at 32k (blew it up) with the "Stage2" Clutchmaster's. It's pretty sweet. I paid $2200 for the whole thing....That's what you get for going to a highly regarded transmission place. (Level 10) edit: I REALLY wish I didn't go there....

GL man.
 

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QUOTE (Evildoc @ Aug 12 2008, 12:07 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1410475
K, well being new around here i should introduce myself My name is Ty i own a 2006 Mazda 6 3.0 v6 and i live around NE Phoenix. I absolutely love my car (even though at times i dont think the feeling is mutual). My 6 is completely stock, and currently has about 35,000 miles, this past Friday i was driving home from work when i went to down shift i notice the clutch pedal didnt come back up, I was able to coast off the freeway and pull onto a side street. Once i got out of the car i immediately noticed a sulfur smell.

To make a short story long i took my car to the dealership the next day (Chapman.. same place i bought the car) and had them look at. Six hours later (and $60 bucks) i was told that yes it was in fact my clutch and NO its not covered under warranty. I was quoted some absurd amount ($1100 for labor, $270 for a new clutch and maybe another $200 for a fly wheel). First of ive driven stick shift for a long long time and i was shocked that it failed so quickly.

Moving along to my real question im looking to upgrade my stock clutch and fly wheel, i cant afford to replace my clutch every 2 years (i don't race and i don't drive like a maniac) I'm wondering what a good combo of clutch and fly wheel would be? Exedy (stage 1) and fidanza fly wheel? Or if any any one here has any other recommendation? And also if anyone knows if the parts can be purchased locally? I'm willing to make a trip to pick them up but i would like to avoid having to ship them. My main concern is i dont want to have to replace my clutch again after another 35,000 miles, and since i have to replace the damn thing it would be nice to get an upgrade. So please please throw out some ideas[/b]
Wrong section since you have a 1st gen 6.

Anyway,it is a 7-8 hour job to put a clutch in one of these cars.
If you plan on keeping the car,I would put in a Clutch masters FX300.It has the same pedal feel as the stock one and a much longer life expectancy......While you are at it you might think about a lighter flywheel like the Exedy(15lb) for fuel economy or the Fidanza(8lb) for performance since the stock flywheel is 30+lbs.

I am in the same boat as you,i just smoked my 2nd clutch at 41k.

My first one got replaced under warranty though and we put the Exedy flywheel in at that time......got 3mpg better out of the car.
 

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QUOTE (djquik1 @ Aug 12 2008, 10:43 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1410679
Wrong section since you have a 1st gen 6.

Anyway,it is a 7-8 hour job to put a clutch in one of these cars.
If you plan on keeping the car,I would put in a Clutch masters FX300.It has the same pedal feel as the stock one and a much longer life expectancy......While you are at it you might think about a lighter flywheel like the Exedy(15lb) for fuel economy or the Fidanza(8lb) for performance since the stock flywheel is 30+lbs.

I am in the same boat as you,i just smoked my 2nd clutch at 41k.

My first one got replaced under warranty though and we put the Exedy flywheel in at that time......got 3mpg better out of the car.[/b]
fuck me i want the flywheel........I could peak over 30MPGs then....
 

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QUOTE (xtmesisx @ Aug 12 2008, 09:48 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1410685
fuck me i want the flywheel........I could peak over 30MPGs then....[/b]
I will be selling my Exedy when I do the swap,I am going for the Fidanza for more performance.

I have gotten 31-33 mpg on the highway,and got 34mpg when i went to my parents with the Sniper coils installed.
 

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QUOTE (djquik1 @ Aug 12 2008, 10:51 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1410689
I will be selling my Exedy when I do the swap,I am going for the Fidanza for more performance.

I have gotten 31-33 mpg on the highway,and got 34mpg when i went to my parents with the Sniper coils installed.[/b]
yeah man, my highway is pwning, but the around town is killing me, bringing my average down to around 28MPGs or so.

I guess i've successfully jacked this thread.
 

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QUOTE (djquik1 @ Aug 12 2008, 09:43 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1410679
I am in the same boat as you,i just smoked my 2nd clutch at 41k.[/b]

Dude, your 2nd clutch @ 41K? Are you tracking/racing?

I guess that I'm pretty lucky to have my OEM clutch @ 91K. I have read numerous threads about folks losing their OEM clutches under 20K.
If my clutch ever goes, I'm going Exedy flywheel, stage 2 clutch and phantom grip. Hopefully, though, I won't need to go there anytime soon.
 

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QUOTE (dfw6er @ Aug 12 2008, 11:09 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1410768
Dude, your 2nd clutch @ 41K? Are you tracking/racing?

I guess that I'm pretty lucky to have my OEM clutch @ 91K. I have read numerous threads about folks losing their OEM clutches under 20K.
If my clutch ever goes, I'm going Exedy flywheel, stage 2 clutch and phantom grip. Hopefully, though, I won't need to go there anytime soon.[/b]
I have been to the track a few times.First oem clutch was gone at 23k and replaced under warranty because I had been complaining about it since the car had 5k on it.They replaced the clutch with the upgraded oem one and the Exedy flywheel.
 

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QUOTE (djquik1 @ Aug 12 2008, 11:16 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1410772
I have been to the track a few times.First oem clutch was gone at 23k and replaced under warranty because I had been complaining about it since the car had 5k on it.They replaced the clutch with the upgraded oem one and the Exedy flywheel.[/b]

So much for "upgraded" OEM clutch quality, I guess. Sorry to hear it's gone, though. That's an expensive labor.
 

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QUOTE (djquik1 @ Aug 12 2008, 10:43 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1410679
Wrong section since you have a 1st gen 6.

Anyway,it is a 7-8 hour job to put a clutch in one of these cars.
If you plan on keeping the car,I would put in a Clutch masters FX300.It has the same pedal feel as the stock one and a much longer life expectancy......While you are at it you might think about a lighter flywheel like the Exedy(15lb) for fuel economy or the Fidanza(8lb) for performance since the stock flywheel is 30+lbs.

I am in the same boat as you,i just smoked my 2nd clutch at 41k.

My first one got replaced under warranty though and we put the Exedy flywheel in at that time......got 3mpg better out of the car.[/b]

yea i can vouch for the Fidanza flywheel and fx300...........2 off the best mods i did to my car. very high quality. and the clutch hasnt slipped yet......and i drive hard

as for getting the clutch replaced. no go on the stealership. go to a good shop you know. i got my fly and clutch replaced for $500 big difference from the $1200



QUOTE (xtmesisx @ Aug 12 2008, 10:48 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1410685
fuck me i want the flywheel........I could peak over 30MPGs then....[/b]

get it, you'll luv it
 

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QUOTE (djquik1 @ Aug 12 2008, 11:25 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1410782
It will be my winter project since I have a lift at my Dad's shop behind his house.No labor just parts.[/b]

Sure would be nice if you took pics and wrote a how to...it'd get sticky status for sure.
 

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QUOTE (dfw6er @ Aug 12 2008, 03:21 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1410941
Sure would be nice if you took pics and wrote a how to...it'd get sticky status for sure.[/b]
You mean something like this


MANUAL TRANSAXLE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION [A65M-R]


  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the battery and battery tray.
  3. Remove the air cleaner component and air cleaner bracket.
  4. Remove the starter.
  5. Remove the front tires and splash shields.
  6. Remove the under cover.
  7. Remove the steering gear and linkage, and pipe assembly installation bolts from the front crossmember, then suspend the steering gear and linkage with a cable. Tightening torque Pipe assembly: 7.8 - 10.8 Nm (79.6 - 110.0 kgf-cm, 69.1 - 95.5 inch lbs.)
  8. Drain the transaxle oil into a suitable container. Warning: Improperly jacking a transaxle is dangerous. It can slip off the jack and may cause serious injury.
  9. Remove in the order indicated in the figure.
  10. Install in the reverse order of removal.
  11. Add the specified amount of specified transaxle oil.



  1. Warm up the engine and transaxle, inspect for oil leakage, and inspect the transaxle operation. No.1 Engine Mount Removal Note


  1. Remove the dynamic chamber.
  2. Install the SST to cylinder head.


  1. Support the engine the SSTs before removing the No.1 engine mount.
  2. Remove the No. 1 engine mount. Manual Transaxle Removal Note


  1. Remove the stud of the No.4 engine mount.
  2. Loosen the SST (49 E017 5AO) and lean the engine toward the transaxle.


  1. Support the transaxle on a jack.
  2. Remove the transaxle mounting bolts.
  3. Remove the transaxle. Manual Transaxle Installation Note


  1. Set the transaxle on a jack and lift into place.
  2. Install the transaxle mounting bolts.


  1. Install the stud of the No.4 engine mount. Tightening torque 27.1 - 40.2 Nm (2.8 - 4.0 kgf-m, 20.2 - 29.6 ft. lbs.)
  2. Tighten the SST (49 E017 5AO) so that the engine is located at the specified position. No.4 Engine Mount Installation Note
  1. Verify that the No.4 engine mount rubber is installed.
  2. Lightly tighten bolts A and B.
  3. Align the installation hole on the contacted area of the front frame with the bolt C installation hole.


  1. Tighten bolt A, then bolt B.
  2. Tighten bolt C, then bolt D. Tightening torque A, B, C, D: 74.5 - 100.9 Nm (7.6 - 10.2 kgf-m, 55.0 - 74.4 ft. lbs.)
  3. Verify that the No.4 engine mount bracket is installed.
  4. Lightly tighten bolt E.


  1. Set the transaxle on a garage jack and lift it.
  2. Align the hole of the No.4 engine mount bracket with the stud bolts of transaxle.
  3. Lightly tighten nut F, G and bolt H.
  4. Tighten nuts F, G in order of F -> G, then bolt H.


  1. Tighten bolt E. Tightening torque E: 85.3 - 116.6 Nm (8.7 - 11.8 kgf-m, 63.0 - 85.9 ft. lbs.) F, G, H: 66.6 - 93.1 Nm (6.8 - 9.4 kgf-m, 49.2 - 68.6 ft. lbs.)
  2. Remove the SST (49 E017 5AO). No.1 Engine Mount Installation Note


  1. Align the hole of the No.1 engine mount rubber with the bolt hole of transaxle.
  2. Lightly tighten bolt A, then tighten bolts B and C.
  3. Tighten bolt A. Tightening torque 66.6 - 93.1 Nm (6.8 - 9.4 kgf-m, 49.2 - 68.6 ft. lbs.)
You want the illustrations too?
 

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QUOTE (djquik1 @ Aug 12 2008, 04:44 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1410953
You mean something like this


MANUAL TRANSAXLE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION [A65M-R]


  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the battery and battery tray.
  3. Remove the air cleaner component and air cleaner bracket.
  4. Remove the starter.
  5. Remove the front tires and splash shields.
  6. Remove the under cover.
  7. Remove the steering gear and linkage, and pipe assembly installation bolts from the front crossmember, then suspend the steering gear and linkage with a cable. Tightening torque Pipe assembly: 7.8 - 10.8 Nm (79.6 - 110.0 kgf-cm, 69.1 - 95.5 inch lbs.)
  8. Drain the transaxle oil into a suitable container. Warning: Improperly jacking a transaxle is dangerous. It can slip off the jack and may cause serious injury.
  9. Remove in the order indicated in the figure.
  10. Install in the reverse order of removal.
  11. Add the specified amount of specified transaxle oil.



  1. Warm up the engine and transaxle, inspect for oil leakage, and inspect the transaxle operation. No.1 Engine Mount Removal Note


  1. Remove the dynamic chamber.
  2. Install the SST to cylinder head.


  1. Support the engine the SSTs before removing the No.1 engine mount.
  2. Remove the No. 1 engine mount. Manual Transaxle Removal Note


  1. Remove the stud of the No.4 engine mount.
  2. Loosen the SST (49 E017 5AO) and lean the engine toward the transaxle.


  1. Support the transaxle on a jack.
  2. Remove the transaxle mounting bolts.
  3. Remove the transaxle. Manual Transaxle Installation Note


  1. Set the transaxle on a jack and lift into place.
  2. Install the transaxle mounting bolts.


  1. Install the stud of the No.4 engine mount. Tightening torque 27.1 - 40.2 Nm (2.8 - 4.0 kgf-m, 20.2 - 29.6 ft. lbs.)
  2. Tighten the SST (49 E017 5AO) so that the engine is located at the specified position. No.4 Engine Mount Installation Note
  1. Verify that the No.4 engine mount rubber is installed.
  2. Lightly tighten bolts A and B.
  3. Align the installation hole on the contacted area of the front frame with the bolt C installation hole.


  1. Tighten bolt A, then bolt B.
  2. Tighten bolt C, then bolt D. Tightening torque A, B, C, D: 74.5 - 100.9 Nm (7.6 - 10.2 kgf-m, 55.0 - 74.4 ft. lbs.)
  3. Verify that the No.4 engine mount bracket is installed.
  4. Lightly tighten bolt E.


  1. Set the transaxle on a garage jack and lift it.
  2. Align the hole of the No.4 engine mount bracket with the stud bolts of transaxle.
  3. Lightly tighten nut F, G and bolt H.
  4. Tighten nuts F, G in order of F -> G, then bolt H.


  1. Tighten bolt E. Tightening torque E: 85.3 - 116.6 Nm (8.7 - 11.8 kgf-m, 63.0 - 85.9 ft. lbs.) F, G, H: 66.6 - 93.1 Nm (6.8 - 9.4 kgf-m, 49.2 - 68.6 ft. lbs.)
  2. Remove the SST (49 E017 5AO). No.1 Engine Mount Installation Note


  1. Align the hole of the No.1 engine mount rubber with the bolt hole of transaxle.
  2. Lightly tighten bolt A, then tighten bolts B and C.
  3. Tighten bolt A. Tightening torque 66.6 - 93.1 Nm (6.8 - 9.4 kgf-m, 49.2 - 68.6 ft. lbs.)
You want the illustrations too?[/b]


ur an ass.....LMAO
 
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