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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am going to be replacing the brake rotors and pads in a couple of weeks and I was going to check the brake fluid when I did this. I was also thinking that I may as well replace the clutch fluid. After reading into it a little bit I see that on the manual transmission, the brakes and the clutch share a reservoir. So I suppose that I will then need to bleed the brake lines and the clutch until all of the discolored fluid is out, while keeping the reservoir topped off. Is this a correct assumption? I haven't had this car for very long, and its the first manual I've had in 20 years, so I'm having to learn some things. Thanks.
 

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2014 Mazda 6 GT & 2006 Mazda 6 GT-MT HB
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I think you read it too fast. That is impossible.
The clutch and brake systems are the ones that share a reservoir, not the transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I think you read it too fast. That is impossible.
The clutch and brake systems are the ones that share a reservoir, not the transmission.
Yes, I am reading too fast. I am meaning to refer to the clutch oil and the brake fluid. I'm working on getting used to this car. Like I said, its the first manual I've had in 20 years, and 20 years ago I wasn't very good on maintaining them.
 

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Yes, I am reading too fast. I am meaning to refer to the clutch oil and the brake fluid. I'm working on getting used to this car. Like I said, its the first manual I've had in 20 years, and 20 years ago I wasn't very good on maintaining them.
Now my reply doesn't make sense... :LOL:

Start bleeding the rear passenger wheel, then the rear driver's wheel, then the front passenger and finally the front driver side one. Then get under and bleed the slave clutch cylinder located close to the clutch and yes, DO NOT let the level go low while you are doing this or you'll basically have to start all over again. It is a split reservoir so one side can go low and you not notice it.
Replacing the transmission fluid is pretty straight forward, many here recommended the Red Line MT-90 which what I used. Although the manual states either GL4 or GL5, I read that GL5 should not be used in this vehicle. Red Line is GL4.
Liquid Bottle Ingredient Fluid Drink
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Now my reply doesn't make sense... :LOL:

Sorry about that. 😬

Thanks for the info on the proper method. So, can I use the Redline GL-4 for the transmission, and regular DOT-3 for the clutch/brakes, correct? I was getting the impression that the Redline GL-4 was being used for the clutch/brakes, but I don't think that's right.

The user manual lists all the specs for the different variations of engines and motors, so it is a little confusing. It shows GL-4 or GL-5, or 75W-90 for the manual transmission. For brake fluid, it lists DOT-3.
 

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Manual Transmission:
75W-90 is the viscosity
GL4 indicates the type of additives

Brake & Clutch Fluid:
Use either DOT 3, 4 or 5.1. DO NOT use 5 as it is not compatible.
 

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Pretty straight forward OP. Start at the farthest bleeder valve from the master cylinder and work your way towards it.
One thing I would like to recommend is start the engine and press the brake pedal all the way down. That point should be the lowest point the pedal travels when bleeding. Put a block of wood under the pedal at that point so when you open the bleeder valve the pedal does not drop to the floor but rather stays within the worn part of cylinder/pedal travel.
Clutch can go all the way to the floor.
Have fun.
@Hicks86
 

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Pennzoil synchromesh works well for the trans oil too. A little bit cheaper and easier to get than MT90. The MT90 is great stuff though.

For bleeding I always do it with two people. One person pumps the pedal, the other works the bleeder valve. I'll say "pump" and the person inside pumps the pedal a a few times then holds it down. The person bleeding then opens the bleeder until the pressure drops off, then closes the valve. repeat. I also like to use a clear hose off the bleeder to a reservoir. This keeps air from being able to get back in the bleeder and you can see any air coming out along with clean fluid. They sell reservoirs for this on amazon for under $20. I usually make my own from a gatorade bottle(short and wide for stability) and clear hose. Just drill a close fitting hole in the top of the bottle for the hose.
 

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2004 Mazda 6s Wagon ATX
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For bleeding I always do it with two people. One person pumps the pedal, the other works the bleeder valve. I'll say "pump" and the person inside pumps the pedal a a few times then holds it down. The person bleeding then opens the bleeder until the pressure drops off, then closes the valve. repeat.
Exactly how I do it.

However,
I recently tried this with great success.
Liquid Fluid Drinkware Gesture Tableware
 

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Pennzoil synchromesh works well for the trans oil too. A little bit cheaper and easier to get than MT90. The MT90 is great stuff though.

For bleeding I always do it with two people. One person pumps the pedal, the other works the bleeder valve. I'll say "pump" and the person inside pumps the pedal a a few times then holds it down. The person bleeding then opens the bleeder until the pressure drops off, then closes the valve. repeat. I also like to use a clear hose off the bleeder to a reservoir. This keeps air from being able to get back in the bleeder and you can see any air coming out along with clean fluid. They sell reservoirs for this on amazon for under $20. I usually make my own from a gatorade bottle(short and wide for stability) and clear hose. Just drill a close fitting hole in the top of the bottle for the hose.
For a person new to auto mechanics or even doing this stuff for many years, it's a good idea to take pictures of the brake set up before starting, like how pad retaining wire is installed to eliminate any confusion going back together.
The most important thing doing this job is constantly check the master cyl to make sure it never runs low! Once you get air in the system you are in trouble. Before starting I use a syringe to suck out as much of the old fluid in the reservoir as possible.
When buying the fluid, buy 3-4 small cans instead of one big one because once a can is opened it must never be saved to be used years later.
Follow the advice as to the bleeding procedure someone else posted, lt rear, rt rear, rt front and driver side last.
You may have an issue removing the rear rotors due to a lip worn in the outer edge of the rotors so that will have to ground away.
The rear brake pistons do not push back in like the fronts, they have to be turned in using the big X in the end of the piston. I had to use modified needle nose pliers to turn in the rear pistons for my first Mazda brake job. The pistons turn very hard by the way. After doing the job I bought this kit from Amazon for next time.
OrionMotorTech Mechanic Disc Brake Caliper Tool, Professional Automotive Tool with Wide Compatibility - Set of 22.
I made my own one-man bleeder many years ago that incorporates a check valve to prevent reverse fluid flow, however one can be bought at an auto parts store or Amazon if a second person is not available. You can get elaborate with a bleeding system that incorporates a vacuum device or buy one that simply incorporates a check valve to keep from reversing the fluid flow when pedal is released.
When replacing the rear pads on my MS6, I damaged one of the piston boots which is easy to do so be prepared and have new ones on hand.
To keep my garage floor clean I use a very large, lipped baking sheet placed under the work area to catch crud and any spills to keep the floor clean, I got mine from Sams.
 
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