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Class action
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Jah; saw it... I wouldn't want an oil burner, but having said that, it'd 'hafta be bad before I'd let them touch my engine. Depending on what time I had, etc, I'd consider doing the valve stem wipers myself... I don't like folks wrenching on my car...
Why don't folks ever check their oil? The lawsuit seems frivolous to me... the complaint about the financial implications of buying a quart of oil...
Why don't folks ever check their oil? The lawsuit seems frivolous to me... the complaint about the financial implications of buying a quart of oil...
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Well, it is true that excessive consumption won't immediately damage anything. HOWEVER, it will, over time, reduce the life of the catalyst, and that's expensive; the cat itself is a crap-ton of money plus of course the labor. It will almost-certainly not fail in-warranty but if you live where emissions testing is required and you have a catalyst efficiency code being stored you either fix it or you can't get tags renewed, so spending the money is not optional if it happens.
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You do have a point. I guess ferreting-out just how much excess oil consumption makes a material difference to (particularly) the pre-cat... That's the issue. I say that 'cuz i) 'lotsa labour to get it out and replaced; and ii) $$$ cuz it's integral with the fancy 4-into-2-into-1 SS exh. manifold. Underfloor main cat - mebe a non-oem one could be procured, by comparison (cheaper)... Some Locales demand OEM 'tho.
Ah yes, the good 'ole warm-up catalyst...
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If you have a V6, double the trouble...Ah yes, the good 'ole warm-up catalyst...
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Most modern vehicles (haven't look closely enough at my "6") do not monitor the big under-floor catalyst, only the ones at the header (via the upstream and downstream O2 sensors.) So yeah, when you get the code, if you do, its not the big one under the floor that you get to replace although sometimes its the big one under the floor that's clogged and is causing the problem. Usually when that happens, however, you have serious drivability issues. The first-level ones going out of spec, unless you have one of those "nice designs" that dump pieces back into the engine if they overheat and break up (e.g. the Ford V6s) typically don't cause anything bad to happen other than the light coming on.
BTW one thing I've seen a few times on vehicles with >100k on them with engines that burn a somewhat-decent amount of oil (but still within "factory" specs; you know, the "one quart in a thousand or two miles is perfectly ok" folks?) is that they'll throw cat efficiency codes if you use the engine as a cabin pre-heater for 15-20 minutes when its cold outside. Some locales ban doing that (and will ticket you for it) but the combination of very low load and very low outside temperatures puts a modestly-compromised cat outside of the operating envelope. The usual freeze-frame for this is idle-level load (~2-3%), fairly high manifold vacuum (engine was at idle) and LTFT >15%, but everything else looks normal. If you live in an emissions-test area you can clear that, don't do the warmup thing and drive it long enough to get the readiness bits back and you'll pass but over time the code will start showing up during normal operation too and then you're cooked.
BTW one thing I've seen a few times on vehicles with >100k on them with engines that burn a somewhat-decent amount of oil (but still within "factory" specs; you know, the "one quart in a thousand or two miles is perfectly ok" folks?) is that they'll throw cat efficiency codes if you use the engine as a cabin pre-heater for 15-20 minutes when its cold outside. Some locales ban doing that (and will ticket you for it) but the combination of very low load and very low outside temperatures puts a modestly-compromised cat outside of the operating envelope. The usual freeze-frame for this is idle-level load (~2-3%), fairly high manifold vacuum (engine was at idle) and LTFT >15%, but everything else looks normal. If you live in an emissions-test area you can clear that, don't do the warmup thing and drive it long enough to get the readiness bits back and you'll pass but over time the code will start showing up during normal operation too and then you're cooked.
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Nope, which is odd theres a second O2 sensor in FRONT of it.
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