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i was looking to order some new tires soon. orginally my 6 can with stock 16s. so i ended up buying someone's 17s. so if i use the orginal tire size from the 16s then the tire size 225/45/17 is -2.77. so does this mean i have to go with 225/50/17 or the stock 215/50/17?

you know your getting old when you don't want to spend the extra $50 for .4inch of tire
 

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Hey guys, I'm about to buy some wheels and I'm wondering what size should I go with.
The specs on the wheels are:

18 x 17.5
Offset: 45

And I'm still riding on my stock suspension, but I'm planning on dropping it an inch or 2 in a couple weeks.

Thanks,
Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter #163
i was looking to order some new tires soon. orginally my 6 can with stock 16s. so i ended up buying someone's 17s. so if i use the orginal tire size from the 16s then the tire size 225/45/17 is -2.77. so does this mean i have to go with 225/50/17 or the stock 215/50/17?

you know your getting old when you don't want to spend the extra $50 for .4inch of tire[/b]
You can use any of the 3 sizes mentioned with no problems. Obviously, if you want to keep your speedo as accurate as possible, stick with the 215/50R17.
 

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Discussion Starter #164
Hey guys, I'm about to buy some wheels and I'm wondering what size should I go with.
The specs on the wheels are:

18 x 17.5
Offset: 45

And I'm still riding on my stock suspension, but I'm planning on dropping it an inch or 2 in a couple weeks.

Thanks,
Kevin[/b]
You can go 225/40R18 or 225/45R18, but with the offset and a drop, you will need a fender roll. If you don't want to roll, then go with 215/45R18.
 

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You can go 225/40R18 or 225/45R18, but with the offset and a drop, you will need a fender roll. If you don't want to roll, then go with 215/45R18.[/b]
Thanks a lot man! One more quick question, the first number [225 or the 215] is that the width of the tires? And if so, then what's the second number [45R]?

Sorry for the newbish questions man, I'm sure you're pretty tired of answering these lol

Thanks,
Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter #166
Thanks a lot man! One more quick question, the first number [225 or the 215] is that the width of the tires? And if so, then what's the second number [45R]?

Sorry for the newbish questions man, I'm sure you're pretty tired of answering these lol

Thanks,
Kevin[/b]
No, not tired at all! However, if you go back to the very first post of this thread, all that info is there:

http://forum.mazda6club.com/index.php?showtopic=33026
 

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You can go 225/40R18 or 225/45R18, but with the offset and a drop, you will need a fender roll. If you don't want to roll, then go with 215/45R18.[/b]
can i go with a 225 45 18 without a drop and no fender roll.thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #168
can i go with a 225 45 18 without a drop and no fender roll.thanks[/b]
I think you'll need a fender roll either way with +45 offset.
 

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What alternative sizes can I put on a stock MS6?
I know... this has been covered before...

Stock: 215-45-18 XL with 93 load rating (car is 3700#). Problem: There's almost nothing available in that size with a 93 load index other than the stock tires. There should be a little margin w the load index as I don't carry 800# of rocks in the car. This would be on the too-narrow factory rims (18x7 +55 offset IIRC. Will the tire still provide it's full grip on the road despite being a little wider than the wheel?

Can I use 225-45-18? Some of those have a 91 load index. I was considering Bgst RE-01, expensive but since I have tire road hazard coverage it would be good to stay with the OE brand.
 

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I'm thinking about purchasing some 18x8 wheels with a 50mm offset. Tirerack.com recommends 225/45/18. I'm on stock suspension and not planning on dropping for quite some time. Would I require a fender roll?
 

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Discussion Starter #172
What alternative sizes can I put on a stock MS6?I know... this has been covered before... Stock: 215-45-18 XL with 93 load rating (car is 3700#). Problem: There's almost nothing available in that size with a 93 load index other than the stock tires. There should be a little margin w the load index as I don't carry 800# of rocks in the car. This would be on the too-narrow factory rims (18x7 +55 offset IIRC. Will the tire still provide it's full grip on the road despite being a little wider than the wheel? Can I use 225-45-18? Some of those have a 91 load index. I was considering Bgst RE-01, expensive but since I have tire road hazard coverage it would be good to stay with the OE brand.[/b]
On the stock 18" wheels, you're pretty much limited to the two sizes, 215/45 and 225/45. The funny thing about the 91 standard load tires vs. the extra load 93s, is that the SL tires carry the same weight at a lower psi. You could run 35 psi in the 91 LI tires and be okay.As far as grip goes, that's a tough question to answer. So much of a tire's performance depends on sidewall construction, tread compounding and design. As long as you're not exceeding the rim specificiations for a given size, you are okay. But, in order to maximize a particular size's handling capabilities, you should mount it on the widest rim possible.
I'm thinking about purchasing some 18x8 wheels with a 50mm offset. Tirerack.com recommends 225/45/18. I'm on stock suspension and not planning on dropping for quite some time. Would I require a fender roll?[/b]
Possibly, but there are lots of people running 235/40R18 on that wheel that say they have no rubbing issues. It will be close, though. I've got a set of RX-8 wheels myself that I'm going to be putting some 235/40R18s soon, so I'll post how that goes.
 

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Possibly, but there are lots of people running 235/40R18 on that wheel that say they have no rubbing issues. It will be close, though. I've got a set of RX-8 wheels myself that I'm going to be putting some 235/40R18s soon, so I'll post how that goes.[/b]
Yeah, let me know how that goes. So in short, if 235/40 doesn't rub then 225/45 should be fine. Note I'm a complete noob at this and I want to do my homework before purchasing anything. Oh, and thanks for the wheel/tire guide.
 

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Discussion Starter #174
Yeah, let me know how that goes. So in short, if 235/40 doesn't rub then 225/45 should be fine. Note I'm a complete noob at this and I want to do my homework before purchasing anything. Oh, and thanks for the wheel/tire guide.[/b]
Correct, because the 225s are slightly narrower.

And, you're welcome! :D
 

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I've got a set of RX-8 wheels myself that I'm going to be putting some 235/40R18s soon, so I'll post how that goes.[/b]
I would love to know how this goes, seeing as how I'm getting some RX-8 wheels(hopefully tomorrow). I have an MS6 does that make a difference? I was looking at some General Exclaim UHP's(?) 225/40/18 and would like to know if they would fit without a roll? Also if I drop at some point in the future will that be a problem with the 225's? Sorry for all the questions, and thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #176
I would love to know how this goes, seeing as how I'm getting some RX-8 wheels(hopefully tomorrow). I have an MS6 does that make a difference? I was looking at some General Exclaim UHP's(?) 225/40/18 and would like to know if they would fit without a roll? Also if I drop at some point in the future will that be a problem with the 225's? Sorry for all the questions, and thanks.[/b]
Having an MS6 shouldn't make a difference. Will you need a fender roll with a drop? Possibly. It will be close. Personally, if you are going to use the RX-8 wheels, why not go to 235/40R18? It is closer in size to the original tire's overall diameter and gives you a wider footprint.
 

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Having an MS6 shouldn't make a difference. Will you need a fender roll with a drop? Possibly. It will be close. Personally, if you are going to use the RX-8 wheels, why not go to 235/40R18? It is closer in size to the original tire's overall diameter and gives you a wider footprint.[/b]
Thanks for the reply, I will look into the 235. I didn't mention a 235 tire because I thought I would be more prone to rub.(showing my lack of knowledge here) Thanks again.
 

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TG - Tx for reply.

So, I should be OK with 225-45? Stranegly they show as accepting up to 51 psi on Tire Rack, maybe that's for track use? I'm thinking of upgrading to BG RE-01R, more treadwear/$ and more grip. I have to get all 4 tires warraneed, they got flat spotted on the dealer's lot. I bought road hazard protection for the oe wheels/tires, and even tho there's no road hazard involved I'm hoping that helps. Yoko Advan07s were the top tire in the category on Tire Rack, but it might be hard to get those as warranty replacements and they supposedly can never see temps below 14F - so you can't even park it outside in January.
With luck they'll let me pony up the difference between 050 and 01R (thus they make a few $ off the transaction) and mount the 01s. The 050s seem to wear fast on the outside edges & I don't drive like all that fast.
 

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Hey all, huge amount of info here; I've gone blurry-eyed trying to take it all in. I'm looking to buy some new tires+wheels and, after reading through our forums and doing my own research, here's what I'd like to get:

Wheels
ASA AR1 Black w/Mach Lip
18" x 7.5
Offset: 52mm
Bolt Pattern: 5-114
Rec. Tire Size: 225/45-18
**Lightweight: 21.5lbs.**
Cost @Tirerack.com: $156.00 * 4 = $624.00

Tires
Goodyear Eagle F1 All-Season
225/45ZR18
Load Rating: XL
Load Index: 95
Speed Rating: Y
UTQG: 420 AA A
[email protected]: $162.00 * 4 = $648.00

Add in locks and S&H+Fees and TOTAL COST = $1,685.02

Seems a bit hefty, but I really like the look of the wheels and the tires rate very well in pretty much every category. Still, I live pretty far north (last week was as cold as -46C with wind, and today was in the -30C range with wind...so plenty of packed snow and very icy roads) and I've always had summer and winter tires. I'm a bit concerned about "all-season" tires. I think I'd be lucky if 50% or more of my winter driving is on "dry" roads. The reason I'd take all-season is a cost issue; I want excellent tires, but two sets means keeping stock exhaust (entire system) for a good while longer. That's fine since it's pointless to boost power when I can't even get stock power to these icy roads.

My thought process is as follows:
If all-seasons work great on ice, then new wheels+tires, sell stock wheels+tires.
If not, then buy the aforementioned wheels and put summer tires on those. Buy winter tires and put them on the stock wheels, see if I can sell stock tires. Now what type of winter tires to buy? High Performance winter, or studless ice and snow?

Long post here, I know. But this will likely be the single most important purchase for my car. Performance of the tires is my #1 priority. Tread wear is probably #2 with cost as the 3rd most important factor. Wheels...whatever I think looks cool and will fit tires that does not require any fender rolling. Tire size preference is 225/40or45R18. What offset would be required to fit without rolling? Would 52 do the trick?

Anyone with significant cold, icy, snowy winter driving or tire gurus have any advice? Thanks!
 

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Hey all, huge amount of info here...and I've always had summer and winter tires. I'm a bit concerned about "all-season" tires. I think I'd be lucky if 50% or more of my winter driving is on "dry" roads. The reason I'd take all-season is a cost issue; I want excellent tires, but two sets means keeping stock exhaust (entire system) for a good while longer. That's fine since it's pointless to boost power when I can't even get stock power to these icy roads.

My thought process is as follows:
If all-seasons work great on ice, then new wheels+tires, sell stock wheels+tires.
If not, then buy the aforementioned wheels and put summer tires on those. Buy winter tires and put them on the stock wheels, see if I can sell stock tires. Now what type of winter tires to buy? High Performance winter, or studless ice and snow?[/b]
My advice? Keep the stock exhaust as long as you need to, invest in the rims that you like, put summer tires on them, and invest in a set of good snow tires on the stockers.

I can tell you from experience, going from a dedicated snow tire BACK to an all-season in the snow is NOT cool. You don't realize just how good snow tires are in the nasty weather until you don't have them anymore. Plus, not only is it "pointless to boost power" without adequate traction, as you mentioned, but snow tires help to stop and steer as well, two more things that an exhaust system won't do, and the peace-of-mind that you'll get using snow tires is icing on the cake.

As far as the type? That's your call. The "studless ice & snow" tires are very aggressive in the snow and ice, but most of them handle poorly in dry conditions and wear down relatively quick. The "performance winter" tires sacrifice a slight amount of extreme snow traction for better control and handling in dry conditions, as well as a longer treadlife. My Michelin Pilot Alpin PA2s are considered "performance winter" tires and are on their 4th season (about 16K miles). They have plenty of tread left, they're very good in the snow and ice for my needs, and even though they may not be as good in extreme weather as the "studless ice & snow" models are, the clear advantage they have in dry conditions more than makes up for it.
 
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