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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I wrote a post as part of a thread on this great (almost free) aux input posted by Chisss.

When I went back to add the rest of my photographs I couldn't locate it. It turns out it is in the Mazda 6 / Mazda Atenza Forum > Technical / Performance / Model > Mazda6 1st Generation (2002-2008) > Mazdaspeed6 forum and I thought it should be here as well as it could be used with a regular mazda 6. It says bose but poster Dainsy verifys it works on non-Bose although there seems to be an age limit at '06 and up but a few p.m.s might clear this up.

http://forum.mazda6club.com/mazdaspeed6/225354-how-3-5mm-stereo-bose-system.html

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This is my install including a ground loop isolator.

This is not my original idea Chisss deserves the credit as he did the heavy lifting. In the words of Bernard of Chartres I am a dwarf standing on the shoulders of giants.

I just followed along and took a few more photos with a couple of additions of my own. The purpose of this is to help those, like me, who struggle with mods and have trouble joining the dots.

This first shot (by Chisss) shows the pins in the aux attachment on the back of the head unit and forms the basis for the mod.

To make your aux line work you need to "trick" the head unit (HU) into believing that there is a factory aux device attached so that it will accept the signal from your mp3 player.

That's what connecting pin 1 and 13 will do.

Pin 3 takes the right channel information, runs it into the HU and amplifies it.

Pin 5 takes the left channel information, runs it into the HU and amplifies it.

Pin 7 takes the signal, ground, -, return, whatever you call it. For both the left and right channels it completes the circuit back to the device and lets the information flow. It is just like there are two wires to the back of speakers you need two lines for each signal.



The first thing I acquired for the mod was the cd cable from a sound card or CD rom drive from a computer. These are perfect as they exactly fit the pins and, when using both, there are 6 females that can be pushed onto those pins (I only used 5).



The other good thing about the connectors is that by using a small flat-head srewdriver or the tip of a steak knife you can press the small silver tabs at the wire end while pulling the wire and you will be able to free all the wires (NOTE: you may need to bend the little tabs back out a little so they will stay put when you replace them).


Once I had all of the wires free I set them out and lined them up with the necessary pins.



I then cut the ends off right at the grey casing so that I had 5 ends. To keep the right and left channels as "the same" as possible I used the thickest wire from each end and then the red wire for signal. I joined them to the wires in the ground loop isolator BEFORE putting them back into the black plastic ends as they will get hot during soldering and, as I tend to make mistakes, I didn't want them melted in there.

The next thing i did was prepare the ground loop isolator (GLI). You don't need to do this it was a "just in case" measure.

Many people had mentioned unwanted noise and how effective a GLI had been at fixing the problem. To prevent having to remove the HU again and install one or have the GLI flapping around in a footwell or something I put it in first. This way I could hide it during the install.

Mine was $17 Canadian. You can get them for under $20 on ebay etc. The ends can be RCA or you may get 3.5 ends or a combination of the two. I'd cut and solder rather than plug though so in either case the following will be the same-ish. No matter which you go with be sure the male end is soldered in closest to the head end. To keep this straight I marked the ends of the GLI with F and R.



Notice that the wires are red and black. Red is for right and black is for left. White is also for left which is important. I cut the ends off and... it turned out even though the outside was black the wire inside was white (greeny-white like a seasick person actually). The unshielded wire is the return line or signal for the left channel. I twirled them both up and then soldered them.



I did the same with the red wire.



I soldered the unshielded (signal) wires together and then attached them to a red wire from the CD cable. I then soldered the white (left) and red (right) to the two thickest wire ends from the CD cable. I used shrink wrap to shield the connections but electrical tape is fine.

Lastly I took the two white wires from the CD cable and joined them to make the bridge between pin 1 and 13.



The ends can then be placed back into the black holders. The white into hole 1 on the first black holder, right into hole 2 on the first holder, left into hole three on the first holder and the red signal wire into hole 4 in the first holder. The other white then goes into hole 3 on the second holder.



I also trimmed the plastic clips from the outside of the black plastic holders.



If you want to mount your aux in the glove box you may not need a longer cable than is on the GLI. I wanted to run mine to the compartment in the console so I attached the other end of the GLI to a piece of CAT5 ethernet cable. You can use anything but remember you have to have a left right AND signal so a single piece of speaker cable won't work, two pieces would though but it would be bulky (remember it is just carrying a signal so very thin wire is fine).

I stripped the ends of the wires then soldered the orange pair together for right (because they are red-ish), I soldered the brown together for left (because they are black-ish) and the green pair together for signal or ground (green is for ground in some wiring). The blue went unused. I did this on both ends.



At the GLI end I soldered the CAT-5 and the GLI wires together and shrink wrapped them. The other end is attached to your actual AUX plug. I chose not to mount mine so I will just deal with what I did do. In Chisss' original post there are instructions on how he did this.

I attached to a female AUX plug. The pins in the plug are shown below.







I soldered them on then shrink wrapped them.



The last thing i did was check the wiring again. I'm a bit paranoid about electrical wiring so I actually tested my wiring at every stage using an old pair of headphones I cut in half and attached to my computer. You could use a continuity tester or a multimeter if you had either handy as well.

Now I need to remove the console and install.

For those instruction challenged I will try to take shots of this too. There are a lot or how to's so I will probably just add one or two shots, specifically about removeing the cup holders. I'm still not totally sure about how to do this.
 

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Okay, so me being not terribly bright sometimes, I went and attempted this since I had all the parts on hand.

I did NOT notice that the original post said this wouldn't work for a 2005 non-bose.

I can confirm that it does not.

I guess I'm going to go with the Overload/sylfex board as that option new is cheaper than trying to find a 2006+ HU and deal with that pain.

I was going to fiddle with the pins to see if I could get some other arrangement to work, but

1) There are people that are better with these sorts of things that have already tried, so I assume I'm not going to make a breakthrough where they haven't.

2) I don't have a comparison of the full pinouts between the 2006+ HUs and the 2005s and earlier, so I wouldn't know what to jump to fool the HU into thinking I have something proper attached

3) I might leave the option for satellite open in the future, and I assume that the rear connector that I'm fudging around with plugs into that port.

Overall, it was a learning experience, but nothing useful was accomplished yesterday.
 
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