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A older friend of mine is a salesman has over 350,000 miles on his volvo (Never been in the shop for a major repair), so i asked him about oil changes and such. He told me changing your oil any earlier than every 10,000 miles is a complete rip-off. Granted using really good oil is essential but changing it so often is not. He told me one of his co-workers has 275,000 on his accord and has never changed his oil, only the filter. So I dont know why you would need an oil change in 1,000 miles
 

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Originally posted by Protherius@Sep 19 2004, 09:58 PM
A older friend of mine is a salesman has over 350,000 miles on his volvo (Never been in the shop for a major repair), so i asked him about oil changes and such. He told me changing your oil any earlier than every 10,000 miles is a complete rip-off. Granted using really good oil is essential but changing it so often is not. He told me one of his co-workers has 275,000 on his accord and has never changed his oil, only the filter. So I dont know why you would need an oil change in 1,000 miles
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To have an early oil change means you are getting rid of the motor oil that has bits of metal in them when your engine was breaking in!

You can push it by not changing the oil (or tune ups) but that doesn't mean it's healthy for your car's engine. By the same token, the performance of the engine will decrease and gas per mile will drop.
 

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Originally posted by Protherius@Sep 19 2004, 09:58 PM
A older friend of mine is a salesman has over 350,000 miles on his volvo (Never been in the shop for a major repair), so i asked him about oil changes and such. He told me changing your oil any earlier than every 10,000 miles is a complete rip-off. Granted using really good oil is essential but changing it so often is not. He told me one of his co-workers has 275,000 on his accord and has never changed his oil, only the filter. So I dont know why you would need an oil change in 1,000 miles
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To have an early oil change means you are getting ride of the oil that contains bits of metal when your engine breaks in.

No to change oil for a prolonged period means you're pushing your engine's limit which will result in reduced performance and will burn more gas.
 

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so how long does the "break in" period last?
 
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Have any of you guys changed your cartridge filter to a spin-on filter like they have on Mazda6tech.com? I want to do that but the dealership says that they don't the parts or are they just saying that?


Help Me Out!
 

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Originally posted by Protherius@Sep 19 2004, 07:58 PM
A older friend of mine is a salesman has over 350,000 miles on his volvo (Never been in the shop for a major repair), so i asked him about oil changes and such. He told me changing your oil any earlier than every 10,000 miles is a complete rip-off. Granted using really good oil is essential but changing it so often is not. He told me one of his co-workers has 275,000 on his accord and has never changed his oil, only the filter. So I dont know why you would need an oil change in 1,000 miles
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Have you seen the actual car? While many enthusiasts go overboard with oil changes, I can safely say that 275K miles is a lot much. The only way that this car could still be running is if it used quite a bit of oil since new and has required a good amount of top-up oil on a regular basis. The new oil would replenish the additives in the exisiting oil and keep it in servicable condition. Having said that I'm sure that there would be an awe inspiring amount of sludge in that motor and if it indeed still runs, it can't be very well.

The oil change interval that you should is highly dependant on the car you drive and how you drive it. Some engines are just harder on the oil than others. Due in part to the presence of VII's (viscocity index improvers) almost all oils will shear down with use. A byproduct of this is the formation of sludge. Some engines will go 10K miles before it is a problem, some will go as little 2K miles. If an engine has a poor ring seal, many of the acidic combustion byproducts will make their way into the oil. Oils contain additives to neutralize these acids, but there is only so much to go around. Once they are depleted, the oil becomes increasingly acidic and attacks various parts of the engine.

Driving style also has a huge influence. If you are always at high rpms and WOT you will have more shear and fuel dilution. This thins out the oil and will lead to increased wear. If you only drive short trip this will also increase fuel dilution. If you live in a cold climate it's also tougher on your engine and it's oil.

In short the only way of knowing for sure is to perform a UOA (used oil analysis). This will tell you if your oil change interval is right for your engine/driving conditions/driving style. It may be 10K miles, or even longer with some oils, or it may be dramatically shorter. Regardless, as long as the car is under warranty you should change the oil at least every 7500 miles. If you don't and you experience as engine problem you could be denied coverage.

Oh, if you run your oil too long a couple of times, you car will not blow up. A little more wear will occur but it won't be the end of the world. Just be sure to stay on top of it to give your car the best possible chance to provide you with long and reliable service.
 

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The stated break-in period is either 800 or 1000 miles... can't remember for sure. An engine will can still easily be breaking in for 20-30K miles, ie: some motors will take that number of miles before their wear patterns stabilize.

Re: changing your oil at 1000 miles. You don't have to and it won't cause you car a great deal of harm if you don't. Having said that, refer to one of Crossbow's posts on page 1 of this thread for 2 UOA's that illustrate wear metal present in the factory fill oil at 1000 miles, versus oil that was in use for about 7500 miles in a car with 30K miles on it (my car). The results speak for themselves. The wear metals are iron, aluminum, lead, copper, tin and chromium. Silicon is also concern as it can be dirt. The others are additives in the oil and are of no concern from a wear standpoint.
 

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Originally posted by Flip2dalimit@Sep 26 2004, 01:44 PM
Have any of you guys changed your cartridge filter to a spin-on filter like they have on Mazda6tech.com?  I want to do that but the dealership says that they don't the parts or are they just saying that?
Help Me Out!
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You'll find they don't do it because its not supposed to be done... If you do it to your car they could (though they should not) go as far as to say you don't get warranty work done because of it, but thats BS :)
 

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I just picked up my new 6 and I asked the dealer about the 1000 mile oil change after reading this thread and they told me that mazda will run/test the engine with oil, flush it out and put new "clean" oil" before it gets shipped out so no need to change it at 1000 miles.

Does this sound reasonable?

Build date of my 6 was 8/04 so i know it wasn't sitting in the lot for a long time.

Either way, I think I am gonna change it at 1000 miles.
 

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No one told me about break in time, however, I'm from the school of break it in like you want it to run, hard or easy. The rings usually form the seat fairly quickly on most internal combustion engines. My wife is driving ours to FL this Monday and it only has 400 miles on it now, debating on whether I should change the oil on it Sunday. I've heard great things about the Castrol German syn 0-30.
 

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I'm going to be doing a 800Mile oil change but I need info on the engine before I do this..I looked and it's a damn cartridge setup but not shure if it's a 4.5 or 5 qt pan. What and where on the engine do I look this info up?
 

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:nono: If you are really concerned about the life of your engine, the small cost of a good quality oil such as Mobil 1 doesn't really factor into the equation
Originally posted by crossbow@Aug 16 2004, 06:19 PM
Adding more information...

On the 6s, the supersized variant of the FL-820S is the FL-1A, which is a longer version of the same filter.

Here's a thread going over the benefits of a larger oil filter.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultima...ic;f=6;t=001752

Of course the X-ref for that filter in the K&N is HP-3001.  G-cubed is test fitting the FL-1A this coming weekend, but were pretty sure it'll fit.

As for the aftermarket filters...the stock FL-820S is a pretty high quality piece, as is the FL-1A...however neither compare to the quality (or high cost) of the K&N or Mobil1.

Between those two filters, the Mobil1 has better filtration ability, while the K&N oil filter is one of the highest flow filters on the market.  There is always a big argument over which is better, filtration or flow.  In an engine which gets its power high in the rev range, flow is generally more important, which is why I'm sticking with the K&N's.

As for oil, I'm running 5w-20 motorcraft for around 3600 miles, then switching to 0w-20 mobil1, then possibly redline 5w-20 (doing a UOA) at a later date.

I agree with paul on holding off for a bit on synthetic...if not because of the reasons mentioned by paul, then for cost.  Because of these extra wear metals early in a car life, its generally recommended to avoid extended intervals...thus changing the oil more frequently for the first 5-10k miles results in a heavy cost if your using syn....

But with motorcraft 5w-20 @ 1.44 qt, its not expensive at all to do 3k intervals for the first 10k miles.
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The reason the FL-1A didn't fit was due to threading differences. Oversized filters do fit (84fordman is running one). Has to be one of these X-ref's to fit.

Oversized Filter List (Fitment Not Tested On All Models)
baldwin #281......h 5 9/32"....bpv 20 psi
carquest #85087
donaldson # p553315 and p550166....h 5." bpv 17-20psi
fleetguard # lf3315....h 5.61"..bpv=17.4psi
motorcraft # EFL252
purolator # L30238...h 5.28"...bpv=20psi
wix #51087...h 5.47"...bpv=19psi
#51592...h 5.214"..bpv=18-20psi
hastings #LF444...bpv=20psi

More filter Xref's
http://forum.mazda6tech.com/viewtopic.php?t=2557
 

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Originally posted by Protherius@Sep 19 2004, 09:58 PM
A older friend of mine is a salesman has over 350,000 miles on his volvo (Never been in the shop for a major repair), so i asked him about oil changes and such. He told me changing your oil any earlier than every 10,000 miles is a complete rip-off. Granted using really good oil is essential but changing it so often is not. He told me one of his co-workers has 275,000 on his accord and has never changed his oil, only the filter. So I dont know why you would need an oil change in 1,000 miles
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I couldn't agree more. Using a good quality synthetic oil should last you at least 8K miles. I see Mobil has release a new synthetic oil that will last 15K miles. I have been using Mobil-1 for 10+ years now and have no complaints. It's rightous stuff.
 

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If you bring the oil you would like in your car to your dealer, will they use that one for you? Added labor charge?
 
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