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Rally Racer
2,724 Posts
@pRoJeKT19 Great news. Those axles can be a huge pain to remove. I just received my slide-hammer with CV fork so I don't have to rent the tool any more.
You can probably pick up a replacement for pretty cheap. Don't be fooled by "lifetime warranty", they are all pretty bad unless they are OEM. I used a few of them while I was hunting for an OEM in the salvage with intact boots. I pull them and replace the boots with OEM for a perfectly smooth ride.
If you get a shake (either while decelerating or accelerating especially) after it is not your tires, its the CV axle.

They are super easy to rebuild, and cheap too ($25 per boot OEM)

EDIT. Thinking about it I wonder if you just didn't pull the ball carriage out of the cup.
If you were pulling the axle, without a tool from behind, it could have happened.

If you cant slide it together it may be worth cutting the boot open to see what happened. If it can be put back together (with a new OEM boot) that would be far better than an aftermarket replacement.

If you do rebuild make sure you mark every bearing placement as well ac cage position.

105 Posts
What鈥檚 not plugged in? It has to be something inside the cv if it鈥檚 spinning freely under the car and the wheel itself is getting no movement.

2,048 Posts
Trust me, i had my Talon apart so many times and it was always the circlips keeping the splines from seating, usually on the trans side, but once in a while on the wheel side if it was taken apart.
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