[Brandon Gum]

So I cold started it my car at 6am. Drove out of my subdivision, and the car stalled out. Started it back up and the engine started perfect, but then proceed to immediately die. I did this maybe 6 times and until battery didn't have any more juice(battery life isn't the best when tested, but it has never let me). started every time, and died immediately. The car threw a check engine light when it stalled out;Im pretty sure my car threw a oil light as well. I tried to read the CEL and couldnt...OBD said there were not codes(not sure if this is because I tried reading it after the engine wouldn't crack anymore due to low battery or what.)

Stranded in the middle of the street(glad it wasn't busy) waiting for the tow I checked my oil. Plenty of oil on the dip stick that I didn't even bother wiping it off and checking again.

Was towed to a shop. I knew I could fix it myself but the tow was $85 so I just went with the safest option. They have not even looked at the car yet.... its been several days. Ready to tow it to mazda dealer or go fix it myself.

The day before it broke down I checked my air filter. Wondering if one of the MAF sensor wires got stressed and now has a poor connection

Here is what I think it could possibly be:
MAF wires
Fuel pressure regulator
fuel relay
cam shaft position sensor
a poor ground
crankshaft sensor(rpms went up when started, so not sure if that rules this out)

Final Comments: car ran fine and then all of a sudden started dying immediately after starting the engine. my long term fuel trim has went from 0% to -5% to now -7% when idling(before it broke down) over the past month and a half, maybe suggesting that a sensor was going bad or that the pressure regulator was going bad.

If your battery dies does it clear the CEL?
I come from an electrical background so feel free to talk technical with me. Thanks

PLEASE. Help me. Any words of wisdom? THANK YOU

 

[Brandon Gum]

bump

 

[GerryB]

You have a pm.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

 

[Brandon Gum]

So i just checked the resistance of the cam shaft position sensor. It is only 8 ohms while the spec is 400.

 

[Brandon Gum]

^just kidding. I measured the oil control valve. Whoops.
The cam shaft position sensor had 3 prongs despite the manual saying it should have 2. That was odd. Must be cause manual is from 2003 and my car is a 2007.

I think the oil light came on only because the car died. Because the light didn't come on until the car died(or at least until like 100RPM). Engine dies wil in on position, makes sense it thinks oil pressure is low. So im fairly confident that light can be ignored. Look it up if you want, It's a thing apparently.

Still don't know what the issue is. Starting to suspect only the fuel system.

PLEASE COMMENT! HELP ME PLEASE

 

[GerryB]

Time to check fuel. I'm a little stumped.

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[Matt prosen]

Was there a fix for this I’m having the same issue

 

[LostMy10mm]

Was there a fix for this I’m having the same issue

Check the F7 fuse in the engine bay fuse box

 

[jrpiper10]

I'm also having this problem with my 2014 Mazda 6 72k miles. Ran fine last night (although seemed like it was struggling uphill to switch gears) Went to start it this morning and it turns on and immediately shuts off within a second. Any updates on this issue?

 

[LeboR]

I'm also having this problem with my 2014 Mazda 6 72k miles. Ran fine last night (although seemed like it was struggling uphill to switch gears) Went to start it this morning and it turns on and immediately shuts off within a second. Any updates on this issue?

What ended up being your issue i have a 2015 that is doing the same thing I can start it and it will immediately die. I have a p061b code . I ve changed the spark plugs and cleaned the maf sensor with the appropriate cleaner . But same start it immediately dies

 

[Charles Fox]

I'm having somewhat the same issue with my 05 Mazda 6 3.0 it will start and run as long as my foot is on the gas but when I shift out of park it dies and I have replaced the cam sensors and the EGR valve I was getting a code for EGR circuit low and getting a code for the cats I'm stumped can anyone help me out with this problem thanks

 

[vkapoor]

I'm having somewhat the same issue with my 05 Mazda 6 3.0 it will start and run as long as my foot is on the gas but when I shift out of park it dies and I have replaced the cam sensors and the EGR valve I was getting a code for EGR circuit low and getting a code for the cats I'm stumped can anyone help me out with this problem thanks

What code are you getting for the cats? If the rear cat's honeycomb ceramic melts then it can get sucked into engine cylinders and scour the walls and clog the exhaust system as well. Check the back pressure. If back pressure > 2 PSI then it's likely the exhaust has a blockage (due to melted cat material) which can suffocate an engine. You will have to clear the blockage by dismantling the exhaust. Also, have you checked the spark plugs and coils. In my case, I found three coils weren't producing a spark.

 

[wsister07]

So I cold started it my car at 6am. Drove out of my subdivision, and the car stalled out. Started it back up and the engine started perfect, but then proceed to immediately die. I did this maybe 6 times and until battery didn't have any more juice(battery life isn't the best when tested, but it has never let me). started every time, and died immediately. The car threw a check engine light when it stalled out;Im pretty sure my car threw a oil light as well. I tried to read the CEL and couldnt...OBD said there were not codes(not sure if this is because I tried reading it after the engine wouldn't crack anymore due to low battery or what.)

Stranded in the middle of the street(glad it wasn't busy) waiting for the tow I checked my oil. Plenty of oil on the dip stick that I didn't even bother wiping it off and checking again.

Was towed to a shop. I knew I could fix it myself but the tow was $85 so I just went with the safest option. They have not even looked at the car yet.... its been several days. Ready to tow it to mazda dealer or go fix it myself.

The day before it broke down I checked my air filter. Wondering if one of the MAF sensor wires got stressed and now has a poor connection

Here is what I think it could possibly be:
MAF wires
Fuel pressure regulator
fuel relay
cam shaft position sensor
a poor ground
crankshaft sensor(rpms went up when started, so not sure if that rules this out)

Final Comments: car ran fine and then all of a sudden started dying immediately after starting the engine. my long term fuel trim has went from 0% to -5% to now -7% when idling(before it broke down) over the past month and a half, maybe suggesting that a sensor was going bad or that the pressure regulator was going bad.

If your battery dies does it clear the CEL?
I come from an electrical background so feel free to talk technical with me. Thanks

PLEASE. Help me. Any words of wisdom? THANK YOU

Fuel pump and sending unit, my man..I got a 2005 Mazda 6..did they same thing..it didn't throw any codes and it would do it when the car got warmed up or say I drove from my house into town.. depending on the weather if it was cold or hot outside it would just shut off or not crank..replaced the fuel pump and sending unit and BAM!!..it never acted up again..that was 7 months ago..heads up tho fuel pumps aren't cheap one highly known neighborhood parts store gave me a price of 298$and a rival gave me a price of 359$..and I'ma broke bitch who was gonna drive this car one way or the other, so...carparts.com had the fuel pump and sending unit for 58$..I hope this helps for you

 

[cnrross1959]

So I cold started it my car at 6am. Drove out of my subdivision, and the car stalled out. Started it back up and the engine started perfect, but then proceed to immediately die. I did this maybe 6 times and until battery didn't have any more juice(battery life isn't the best when tested, but it has never let me). started every time, and died immediately. The car threw a check engine light when it stalled out;Im pretty sure my car threw a oil light as well. I tried to read the CEL and couldnt...OBD said there were not codes(not sure if this is because I tried reading it after the engine wouldn't crack anymore due to low battery or what.)

Stranded in the middle of the street(glad it wasn't busy) waiting for the tow I checked my oil. Plenty of oil on the dip stick that I didn't even bother wiping it off and checking again.

Was towed to a shop. I knew I could fix it myself but the tow was $85 so I just went with the safest option. They have not even looked at the car yet.... its been several days. Ready to tow it to mazda dealer or go fix it myself.

The day before it broke down I checked my air filter. Wondering if one of the MAF sensor wires got stressed and now has a poor connection

Here is what I think it could possibly be:
MAF wires
Fuel pressure regulator
fuel relay
cam shaft position sensor
a poor ground
crankshaft sensor(rpms went up when started, so not sure if that rules this out)

Final Comments: car ran fine and then all of a sudden started dying immediately after starting the engine. my long term fuel trim has went from 0% to -5% to now -7% when idling(before it broke down) over the past month and a half, maybe suggesting that a sensor was going bad or that the pressure regulator was going bad.

If your battery dies does it clear the CEL?
I come from an electrical background so feel free to talk technical with me. Thanks

PLEASE. Help me. Any words of wisdom? THANK YOU

My 2007 6 3.0 did it and I found the cold air intake came loose from the throttle body.