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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 03 Mazda 6S V6 automatic with 45K miles, and last night when I was at a stop light, I started to take off and it shuttered and then stalled. Then latter that night and today, it started shuttering again from a stop but has not stalled agian.

I checked a few other posts that had similar scenerios and I check a few things that were mentioned. I do have a CPE intake with MAFci and I checked the the intake and it is tight, also my 6 had the problem with a 1/4 and a full tank of gas and both were different brands of 91 so I don't think it is bad gas. Any ideas?

I do have a warrenty but should I be worried about having my CPE intake on there when I take it to the dealer, should I take it off first?

Thanks,
Erik Lemke
 

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go back to stock airbox, and take it in. It is probably a bad throttle body
 

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Mine did this a few times, took it back 2 days ago and had them replace my throttle body. New one should have a "BB" stamped into it rather than the AB or AA.

03 6s 42k here.

Although, now the car seems to rock back and forth or something when stopping. Might have to have that checked out, and I had 2 starts this morning where it took forever to turn over... sounds as if it were flooded? Which is odd, it's never happened before.

*shrug*
 

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Discussion Starter #4
DaBears2k Posted Today, 08:38 PM
go back to stock airbox, and take it in. It is probably a bad throttle body



^ DaBears2k: OK, but is it hard to switch the wires from the MAFci back to stock? I installed the intake and my buddy did all the wiring for me and I don't think he is free to help me before I take the car in. Is it simple or do I need a diagram or something to switch back. Not sure if I still have the CPE install instructions.

Thanks!!!
 

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There's one wire that's cut in half, which is the MAF wire. What you need to do, is disconnect the 2 wires from the MAFci (black box) that are connected to ONLY that wire, the MAF wire.

Then, just reconnect the cut MAF wire back together somehow (I used a 2" piece of wire a few times and bridged them together) and you should be fine. It won't be sending the re-tuned signal to the ECU anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks alot. I will attempt it in the morning.
 

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Guy's, check your connections!!! Or check the MAFci box.

I had the same problem as what you guys just described. While driving and gasing, at times, the car feels like it wants to go but surge and then cut off while at the same time it rocks back and forth.

Three seperate occasions, I had the car stall. Once while in motion and twice went starting to move from a dead stop. I thought it was my MAF or something else. Put the stock airbox back in and used the MAFci bypass. Was going to take the car a few days later, but guess what? All those driveability issue disappeared. I talked to Josh and he said it's most likely my connection.

How did I check? He said open the MAFci box (held in by small screws). Have the box plugged in. On the PCB board, there are two small diagnostic LEDs. Turn your car to on (you don't have to start the car). If you have at least one of the LEDs flashing, it means you have a lose connection.

This happened in late August. Had the MAFci bypass for a while and car's been driving just fine. I plan to solder my connections soon and get the CAI back on though.
 

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DaBears2k Posted Today, 08:38 PM
go back to stock airbox, and take it in. It is probably a bad throttle body
^ DaBears2k: OK, but is it hard to switch the wires from the MAFci back to stock? I installed the intake and my buddy did all the wiring for me and I don't think he is free to help me before I take the car in. Is it simple or do I need a diagram or something to switch back. Not sure if I still have the CPE install instructions.

Thanks!!!
[/b]
That's why you need the RPM CPE bypass unit...

http://www.therpmstore.com/product_info.ph...176885737bf2acd
 

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...

How did I check? He said open the MAFci box (held in by small screws). Have the box plugged in. On the PCB board, there are two small diagnostic LEDs. Turn your car to on (you don't have to start the car). If you have at least one of the LEDs flashing, it means you have a lose connection.

...
[/b]
would be nice to have those LEDs out in the open...so one would not have to open the box up.

thx for the note.
 

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How did I check? He said open the MAFci box (held in by small screws). Have the box plugged in. On the PCB board, there are two small diagnostic LEDs. Turn your car to on (you don't have to start the car). If you have at least one of the LEDs flashing, it means you have a lose connection.
[/b]
Reading the OP, I'm thinking along the line sof the others too. Check your MAFci connections.

Cool info on the MAFci box internals! +1 karma to you, sir! Thanks.
 

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I have an 03 6s with 32,000 and I thought you were supposed to use good ole' 87 octane.

Could that be the problem or should I be using the higher octane???
 

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I have an 03 6s with 32,000 and I thought you were supposed to use good ole' 87 octane.

Could that be the problem or should I be using the higher octane???
[/b]
You are suppose to only use 87 octane. Anything more is just a waste of money.
 

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Ok well, to those of you who say, "Check your connections" I thought it was that as well. Until the car was still having that same quirky behavior AFTER I HARD WIRED the MAFci.

Yeah. So, I dunno... maybe that's the situation for some of you guys but, for me, it was my throttle body. Had it replaced and it hasn't had the problem of idle dipping or stalling, etc.
 

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I have had the same problem as well. I soldered in my maf box and the problem didn't go away. I got my throttle body replaced and teh problem went away. That was back in june. The problem started again the other day. I was sitting in traffic at a light and the car did a sort of jump and stalled twice. I went to the store I was goign to and then came back out and it didn't do it since. I have the throttle body with the bb.
 
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