Mazda 6 Forums banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2012 Mazda 6 brand new alternator and battery also brand new starter and i just had the tensioner replaced yesterday, but my car still making a squealing noise and my headlights keep blowing help anyone
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
17,372 Posts
Welcome to the forum!

Sorry to hear about the problems. For the headlights, it sounds like there's a faulty/loose ground wire somewhere or possibly some frayed/pinched wires. Unfortunately, electrical problems are difficult to track down and will require as much info as you can give us.

As for the squealing, where's it coming from? Does it change when you apply throttle? Does it happen more often with certain temperatures or depending on how long the car has been on?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,119 Posts
what's your mileage?

did you change the serpentine belt and idler pulley as well?

a cheap way to help you isolate where the squealing is coming from is to take a spray bottle of war and spray a small stream of water on the belt (top and bottom side) and pulleys while the engine is at idle. One small spot at a time. If you spray a certain pulley and it magically went away.. chances are that's your trouble spot. Eventually, you will find it.

Squaealing can also be caused by belt/pulley misalignment.

as for the headlights, check headlight harness connector and it's wiring for corrosion/and or frayed/shorted wires. If it looks stiff or crispy..it's a sign. Check inside the headlamp assembly too. Those wires and terminals are subjected to heat often from the bulbs.
 

·
Rally Racer
Joined
·
2,720 Posts
I have a 2012 Mazda 6 brand new alternator and battery also brand new starter and i just had the tensioner replaced yesterday, but my car still making a squealing noise and my headlights keep blowing help anyone
As mentioned before, if the squealing is constant but changes when the engine is accelerated it could be a belt or a bearing on the serpentine belt path. The solution is to remove the belt and spin all the pulleys by hand. If any of them have play or feel rough (or spin very easily) that is likely your problem. If the squeal only lasts a min after you start it could be just the belt (alternator slip as a result of charging the battery after starting or the power steering if first start in the morning or when cold.)

If you are touching the bulbs with your hands they will fail quickly. The oils from skin (or heaven forbid lotion) will super heat the unit and cause it to fail.

An electrical short could cause this as well and would take a professional to diagnose.

As big brother mentioned above you could shoot water at the belt and see if it quiets. It still won't tell you if it is the result of a bad bearing but it is a start.

Good Luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Hey sorry late reply. Found my headlight problem there are fried wires in my headlights. The squealing noise that I'm hearing is every time I start my car up when it's idle some days it doesn't squeal some days it does and the squealing noise continued for about 5 to 10 minutes then it goes away and then it starts right backup but like I say some days it does it some days at don't but I know it's a problem that can be fixed I've taken my car to Mazda to see if they could find the problem but they so called say they couldn't be charged my out the as for nothing
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,119 Posts
For the headlight issues;


If none of the wires are broken and you can access the trouble areas- what you can do for the time being until you can dive deeper into repair mode is to take some high temperature RTV and repair the insulation coating so they won’t short out from normal driving vibrations and bumps. Most of those does take 24 hours to dry, be aware of that. Find some quick drying type.

Not sure what the temperature range of “liquid electrical tape” is but that’s another option.

Electrical tape works too if you have decent access to wrap it well.


Really, the best way is to remove entire headlamp assembly and the front clear lens. Replace all of the wirings with more robust gauge w/proper insulation. It’s not all that bad to do. Will need a heat gun and new butyl sealant, though.

Mazda cheapened out on headlight wirings and grounds on this car. Been there, done that..



(╭☞ ಠ ͜つ ಠ )╭☞ r=1+sinθ
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,119 Posts
Liquid electrical tape from Permatex is a good candidate; it apparently can withstand -65°F <-> 400°F







(╭☞ ಠ ͜つ ಠ )╭☞ r=1+sinθ
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
For the headlight issues;


If none of the wires are broken and you can access the trouble areas- what you can do for the time being until you can dive deeper into repair mode is to take some high temperature RTV and repair the insulation coating so they won’t short out from normal driving vibrations and bumps. Most of those does take 24 hours to dry, be aware of that. Find some quick drying type.

Not sure what the temperature range of “liquid electrical tape” is but that’s another option.

Electrical tape works too if you have decent access to wrap it well.


Really, the best way is to remove entire headlamp assembly and the front clear lens. Replace all of the wirings with more robust gauge w/proper insulation. It’s not all that bad to do. Will need a heat gun and new butyl sealant, though.


Mazda cheapened out on headlight wirings and grounds on this car. Been there, done that..



(╭☞ ಠ ͜つ ಠ )╭☞ r=1+sinθ
I brought 2 new headlight kits so I don't have that issue with the lights anymore. Thanks for the advice really appreciated it 👍
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,397 Posts
Liquid electrical tape from Permatex is a good candidate; it apparently can withstand -65°F <-> 400°F







(╭☞ ಠ ͜つ ಠ )╭☞ r=1+sinθ
Is this the same?

240550


Unfortunately, I can't find a local online seller for Permatex.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,119 Posts
it's similar. That seem to be a more lighter duty version vs the Permatex but should work if you do not use it outside it's limits.

it's made for application within the temperature range of -30F to 200F (-34C to 93C ).

This rubber based brush-on liquid tape forms a protective, waterproof, UV-resistant, dielectric seal around spliced electrical wire to protect against corrosion, shortages, electrical shock and vibration. The quick-drying fluid cures in 24 hours and will not deterioriate or unravel like traditional tape. Resistant to chemicals, solvents, saltwater and other common fluids, to achieve connections that last for decades. To apply, shake well then use brush built into the cap to liberally brush the liquid over the splice/connection. Allow to dry for 5 minutes and then re-apply if a thicker application is needed. Ideal for both indoor and outdoor use and under extreme environments including automotive, marine, farm/ag and RV. 4 oz bottle Temp range: -30 to 200 degrees F and -34 to 93 degrees C


  • Forms a protective, waterproof, UV-resistant, dielectric seal around spliced electrical wire to protect against corrosion and shortages
  • Formula is resistant to chemicals, solvents, saltwater and other common fluids
  • Quick-drying formula cures in 24 hours
  • Will not unravel or deteriorate like traditional tape
  • Remains flexible in extreme temperatures and climates -30 to 200 degrees F and -34 to 93 degrees C
  • Dries black
WarrantyStandard 1 Year
Liquid Electrical Tape, Waterproof Seal, All Indoor/Outdoor Uses, Includes Brush, Black, 4oz, 1/Jar
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,397 Posts
it's similar. That seem to be a more lighter duty version vs the Permatex but should work if you do not use it outside it's limits.

it's made for application within the temperature range of -30F to 200F (-34C to 93C ).


Liquid Electrical Tape, Waterproof Seal, All Indoor/Outdoor Uses, Includes Brush, Black, 4oz, 1/Jar
Hey! You changed your picture. I got confused first as I thought I was speaking to another person.


Thank you for confirming. I haven't tried using that one as I didn't even know about it. I think using a shrink wrap after applying liquid tape can make a more clean looking finish, considering that I might mess up in applying it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,119 Posts
The shrink wraps would be more durable and the preferred method if you have easy access to do that repair.

Use the type that has the adhesive on the inside edges. It will weather proof the section. No moisture, no corrosion.

If you cannot find any with the adhesive what you can do is use it as normally and then apply liquid ‘electrical tape’ on the edges to seal it.

Those are also available in different temperature ranges. Be sure to check that.


The liquid ‘electrical tape’ is okay to use in hard to access areas. I usually apply multiple layers after the previous application has dried.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top