I have a 2012 Mazda 6 brand new alternator and battery also brand new starter and i just had the tensioner replaced yesterday, but my car still making a squealing noise and my headlights keep blowing help anyone
As mentioned before, if the squealing is constant but changes when the engine is accelerated it could be a belt or a bearing on the serpentine belt path. The solution is to remove the belt and spin all the pulleys by hand. If any of them have play or feel rough (or spin very easily) that is likely your problem. If the squeal only lasts a min after you start it could be just the belt (alternator slip as a result of charging the battery after starting or the power steering if first start in the morning or when cold.)I have a 2012 Mazda 6 brand new alternator and battery also brand new starter and i just had the tensioner replaced yesterday, but my car still making a squealing noise and my headlights keep blowing help anyone
I brought 2 new headlight kits so I don't have that issue with the lights anymore. Thanks for the advice really appreciated it 👍For the headlight issues;
If none of the wires are broken and you can access the trouble areas- what you can do for the time being until you can dive deeper into repair mode is to take some high temperature RTV and repair the insulation coating so they won’t short out from normal driving vibrations and bumps. Most of those does take 24 hours to dry, be aware of that. Find some quick drying type.
Not sure what the temperature range of “liquid electrical tape” is but that’s another option.
Electrical tape works too if you have decent access to wrap it well.
Really, the best way is to remove entire headlamp assembly and the front clear lens. Replace all of the wirings with more robust gauge w/proper insulation. It’s not all that bad to do. Will need a heat gun and new butyl sealant, though.
Mazda cheapened out on headlight wirings and grounds on this car. Been there, done that..
(╭☞ ಠ ͜つ ಠ )╭☞ r=1+sinθ
This rubber based brush-on liquid tape forms a protective, waterproof, UV-resistant, dielectric seal around spliced electrical wire to protect against corrosion, shortages, electrical shock and vibration. The quick-drying fluid cures in 24 hours and will not deterioriate or unravel like traditional tape. Resistant to chemicals, solvents, saltwater and other common fluids, to achieve connections that last for decades. To apply, shake well then use brush built into the cap to liberally brush the liquid over the splice/connection. Allow to dry for 5 minutes and then re-apply if a thicker application is needed. Ideal for both indoor and outdoor use and under extreme environments including automotive, marine, farm/ag and RV. 4 oz bottle Temp range: -30 to 200 degrees F and -34 to 93 degrees C
- Forms a protective, waterproof, UV-resistant, dielectric seal around spliced electrical wire to protect against corrosion and shortages
- Formula is resistant to chemicals, solvents, saltwater and other common fluids
- Quick-drying formula cures in 24 hours
- Will not unravel or deteriorate like traditional tape
- Remains flexible in extreme temperatures and climates -30 to 200 degrees F and -34 to 93 degrees C
- Dries black
Warranty Standard 1 Year
Hey! You changed your picture. I got confused first as I thought I was speaking to another person.it's similar. That seem to be a more lighter duty version vs the Permatex but should work if you do not use it outside it's limits.
it's made for application within the temperature range of -30F to 200F (-34C to 93C ).
Liquid Electrical Tape, Waterproof Seal, All Indoor/Outdoor Uses, Includes Brush, Black, 4oz, 1/Jar