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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all. 2014 M6 gt with 11 speaker bose.
Couldnt find my answer here through extensive searching on the forums. I have a quick question regarding the bose amp.

The green harness and black harness that contain the speaker wires, are those harnesses the output speaker lines of the amp going to the speakers or are they input harnesses to the amp coming from the head unit? I just want to make sure im tapping signal after the bose amp and not before as audio controls instructions on wiring the lc6i.

My goal is to install the lc6i with 5 channel amp, replace the front door subs with midrange speakers and add a sub in the trunk....so all 4 doors are midrange.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
 

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I think your odds of getting a clear answer on this are rather low. There's just not much info out there unfortunately and the wires colors are always different from year-to-year which further complicates things. To answer your question in a general sense the harnesses have to contain both. There must be an inputs to the amp from the HU and outputs to the speakers. From information I've gathered around the web the green harness typically contains speaker outputs, which would mean the inputs are likely on the larger black harness, but for lower power speakers like tweeters or the center channel (because BOSE), there could also be outputs from the larger black connector as well. Since you're replacing most the speakers anyways, my suggestion would be to do a continuity check with the wires in the doors to see where they're routed back to in the amp harness. That would be the only way to get a definitive answer on what wires go where. Unless someone has a pin-out of course.
 

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@MZ6Alex

Hey, thanks for the reply. I do have the pinout diagrams for my particular year(2014). Upon reviewing the pinout diagram, it shows some speakers on the green harness and others on the black harness. It also shows on the diagrams that the speaker wire colors actually change from the bose amp to the actual speaker. So at the bose amp u have 2 color codes, and then at the speaker they are different color codes. Im assuming mazda changes wire run colors to make it difficult for owners to upgrade audio outside the dealership. Anyway,, regarding doing a continuity test, if i put positive/negative leads of a multimeter in the proper labeled pinouts(from the diagram) of the harness would that give me a tone out of the speaker? If that would work, it would answer my question that the green harness is the output speaker lines going to the speakers and indicate exactly what color codes are for each speaker at the bose amp....what i dont understand about the pinout diagrams is why the speakers are divided between the 2 harnesses....this is what it shows,

Green harness:

Front left and right dash speakers
Rear door right speaker
Left and right rear deck speakers

Black harness:
Front left and right door speakers(subs)
Rear door left

Can u or anyone confirm this? I find it quite bizarre but following the pinout codes this is what i understand.

In the end like i said in my original post....i just want to wire my lc6i after the bose amp as recomended and not before it.
 

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I was in your shoes last year when I was wiring the amp for my subs. I too have the bose system for my 2015 touring mazda 6. I can’t remember exactly where I tapped into but I was right and it works great.



This pic is from my notes when I did the install for the colors of wires I tapped into. Ignore the last item on each line (yellow hot white hot stuff) that was specific to the lines I used to go to the amp I installed for the sub.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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It's definitely bizarre the wire colors change. I hadn't even realized this myself (have some changes planned for my 2018, but haven't had the time to sit down and really look at things closely). I don't think they would do this to make upgrading the audio system difficult, but I would be curious as to why this is the case. Also in your model of vehicle I believe the front mids and tweeters are connected in parallel, so this likely makes it further difficult to tell which set actually makes it's way back to the amp.

A continuity test is done by setting your multi-meter to continuity mode as indicated by the schematic image of a diode:
. If you then plug the leads into their normal voltage measuring slots and touch them together the multi-meter should read "0". If your multi-meter has a beeper/buzzer that should also sound when you touch the end of the leads together (sound may need to be manually turned on). The test is to determine if the wire goes directly from one point to another, or if there are other electrical components/shorts in the way. It's similar to testing resistance but in this case we don't care about the resistance measure, we only just want to know if the wire is continuously connected.

The way I would do this is to take the speaker out of the door & disconnect it (since you're doing this anyways), then connect one end of the multi-meter to each one of the speaker wires at time in the door, and probe each output wire at the connector for the amp. Do this for both wires that connect to the speaker in the door and you'll know for sure which wire is which, plus you'll also have the benefit of knowing you'll have the correct speaker polarity for your aftermarket speakers when you go to hook those up.

Regarding the amp inputs/outputs and their respective harnesses, these amps are pretty universal. The basic shell design (probably PCB as well) is extremely similar-if not the same, for the entire Mazda6 generations of vehicles, so it would be far easier/cheaper for Bose to just reroute output channels to other available pins rather than go through the trouble of redesigning a new shell and changing the plugs just to compensate for a couple extra speakers.

EDIT: So I had changed out my 3x front channel speakers last week and visually at least it appears the wire colors going to those speakers correspond correctly to the wire colors at the amp harness. I can't confirm for sure without a multi-meter this is the case, but from the pin locations on the green harness and how all 3x wire pairs are exactly next to each other horizontally, I doubt there's any change in wire color from the speakers to the amp for me. I'm not sure why things are different for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the replies again. I'll probably give the speaker continuity check probably next week hoping that I get some free time. With regards to the wires changing color mid route, i have no idea. My 6 was actually manufactured in japan. Not sure if that might have something to do with it. Zoom in on the front door speaker lines from the amp to the speakers in this screenshot. Tell me what you think. As i see it, the color code changes.
 

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It definitely appears the wire colors change for the front speakers, but I can't see why and I also don't see the tweeters on that diagram either. They would have to run in parallel somehow.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Those are the front door subs. The tweeters do run parallel with the top dash 3.5"mids...i have rhat diagram as well..i will take a look at it later tonight and confirm if they change colors as well from amp to speaker
 

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So I found the diagram. The tweeters and 3.5 mids in the dash are same color code from amp to speakers and wired in parallel, however its showing again that both rear door speakers change color at the speakers. Why?

Would you know if the speaker pop test would work( battery with wire leads touching +/- of speaker) from the harness pinouts? Or is it too long of a run.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
@xthefletcher

Hey whats up. If i was just adding a loc for subs it would be very simple, but because im adding a 6 channel loc, i need to get a full range signal, so i can eliminate the sub frequencies going to the front doors and apply midrange frequencies there instead. I will have a sub in the trunk instead.
 

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Gah, sorry for that! Of course you're talking about the subs. Long day at work will be my excuse. :wacko:

Anyways! My theory would be that the wire colors probably change at the door jam wiring harness connector. The grommet containing all the wires from the door harness physically plugs into the main wiring harness of the car in the door jam area. Now that I think about it my old first gen Mazda3 was like this too, I just didn't completely realize it at the time when I was reverting it back to stock before I sold it. This would make sense considering manufacturing process and all. You could try the speaker pop test with like a 9V battery or something cause those are subs anyways. Shouldn't hurt them.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yeah long days at work are never fun. Through some searching, apparently the speaker pop method shouldnt hurt any speaker. I just need to confirm that mazda has seperated the speaker outputs from the amp with the 2 different harnesses. (Black and green) luke i mentioned in my previous post. Thats whats holding this install up....along with time permitting...i managed to build an amp rack housing my subwoofer enclosure....i did a layout and this is how it looks.
 

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Very nice and clean. This is how mine looks with two 10” kickers and the amp mounted on top of the sub box.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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You have a nice setup as well. My subbox is for an 8" skar vvx8v3. I have a hifonics thor 5 channel amp. Now im just waiting for some free time to actually diagnose the harnesses and determine what lines are going to each speaker so i can wire everything up and put this install to bed....its been dragging for a while now. Unless someone here knows for sure if both harnesses(black and green) share outputs to the speakers and are not input harnesses from the HU.
 
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