which map are you running?
how many miles on the map when you took the log?
do you have an intake as well as the other parts listed?
any exhaust upgrades not listed above?
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Take another log, but change the parameters logged- your logging to many things, and not getting enough readings per second. Less items logged=more readings per second. You can do it with all the items you have selected, but you'll need to be much more careful getting enough data points.
Looking at the posted log I would still be working on your fuel trims. Your still pulling almost +7 (+6.86) in your 5-18 volts break point. Until the trims are squared away, I wouldn't even try to tune the rest.
When MAF tuning I really only look at certain points-
Accel. Pedal Pos. (%)
RPM (RPM)
Long Term FT (%)
Mass Airflow (g/s)
MAF Voltage (V)
Short Term FT (%)
Actual AFR (AFR)
Nice, but optional items for MAF tuning
(there should be no stress on these for a baseline MAF run)
Knock Retard (°)
Vehicle Speed (mph)
DI Fuel Press. (PSI)
Boost (PSI)
Pull the log while watching the MAF (g/s) on the AP display.
Carefully ease your way through 3 g/s through over 100, even 130. You need several readings in each break point to get a good sense of whats going on. study DF's post on how to tune your MAF for additional details, and follow his example and the ATR Help file step 2 so you can see how to spot the break points and what to do with them.
You want 50 to 100 miles on a map to settle the LTFT numbers down for best results.
Once you have a usable log file, and have highlighted the break points decide what changes need to be made.
Post back here with the log file and what YOU think needs to be done and we'll assist from there.
Don't think anybody here will make an eTune for you, but we'll help you learn how to do it yourself.
If your still completely lost or just uncomfortable with the process, please, PLEASE pay for a Protune. It is very very very possible to do massive damage to start just changing things without understanding the what's & why's....
