I'm usually the same way, but I figured I had the entire rest of the traffic around me as a witness to whatever may have occurred. Some other guy in a truck behind us saw the whole thing and gave the dude an earful for us.
I have never lived in a snow/rust belt state (I live in Florida, after all) but my high school chemistry tells me that Magnesium Chloride (MgCl2) is a salt, just like Calcium Chloride (CaCl2) and will cause rust just as much. My quick check online tells me that it is perhaps worse, based on some of its physical properties. I would err on the side of caution and still take the necessary precautions.
I have never lived in a place they used road salt either. But they use a lot of MgCl brine solution and we just don't have rust problems where I live. You see it on the roads every morning they think there might be a good frost. When I have visited places like Minnesota, I am appalled at the apocalyptic rust problems they have on basically every car. I remember seeing unibodies on cars only 4-5 years old with rust perforated all the way through them. I have never seen anything like that where I live. I have owned 30-year old cars that have spent their entire lives in this state, and have never seen rust perforate a panel except where there was body damage.
The steels used in cars today are generally the same alloys over the past several decades. I don't know where you are getting your information, but the quality of those steels, if it has changed at all, has probably improved, just due to better QC in the manufacturing process. There are definitely more high-strength steel alloys being used in unibody frames than in previous decades. But one way or the other, the coating is what stops rust in the unibody, not the alloy. Any steel will rust when exposed to water, unless it is a stainless alloy or if it's treated with galvanization, but unibodies are neither of those.
Mazda, and not only Mazda, but Mazda in particular seems to do a deplorable job of phosphating and E-Coating their fabricated subframes and other suspension members. Also, it appears to me that they use dirty steels for the same fabrications that if uncoated- or if the poor excuse for a coating system fails - vigorously corrode with spalled-off chunks of steel. You've seen it: corrosion beyond the realm of normal or average. So, as to the comment that modern day methodologies and materials are superior to those in past - I'd disagree, if we're talking about Mazda's. The OP should do his best to protect subframes and suspension fabrications with the best creeping/self-healing waxy preservative materials he can suss out... now, or 'real soon!
Agreed. Because once that rust starts it will never stop.
Nah, first thing on the list (and on the books for June) is XPEL paint protectant for the entire front end and entire hood. Because of the low amounts of rain in our parts and the vast amount of water needed to sustain the farms/growing population, salt is never used for winter road treatment. They will "chip" the roads prior to winter, which involves dumping a large amount of crumbled (small rock-sized) tar chunks connected with maleable tar on the roads. The concoction covers the entire road and allows for a fair amount of additional grip.
To each his/her own I suppose. We rented the convertible for a vacation once to confirm that our luggage fits perfectly in the trunk. We also confirmed that we much prefer the hard top for several reasons (explained in reply to cdn's post). We're also small people, so getting in/out isn't an issue for us. Sure, it's low to the ground, but what do you expect from a sports car?
Correct, they fade despite best efforts and will eventually need replacing. The hard top has more pieces that can fail, however, and I can't imagine it's cheap to replace, but at least I know the top itself won't degrade over time. When our hard top is up, you're in a fully enclosed ca and road noise is nominal (realizing you're in a low-slung sports car with stiff suspension). We also live where it's perfectly sunny but can be 0F out, so the hard top will keep us warmer while cruising.
How is the fit for your height, Byakuya? I’d love one of those but am 6’-2” and when I sit in a Miata at the dealership it feels too constrained for me, especially the legroom. Thanks.
Hes a short ass Asian
Im 6ft and dont fit either.
Not gonna lie, this car probably isn't made for anyone over 6ft. You can adjust things a bit to try and get that extra leg room but, as far as I can tell, it's even smaller than previous gens. I'm 5'7" and wife is 5'4" and it's like th car is built for us specifically.
Close, but no cigar.Hes a short ass Asian
Hmm, i thought you said you were lol.
Yes.
