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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So this is exceptionally odd, I had to have the front brakes done on my 2017 touring auto with just under 12k miles. Mazda "good willed" the parts & work which was the right thing to do. However after owning a 2006 6s, and a 2015 touring manual, I've never gotten less than 30-35k on front pads before needing to replace them. I live and commute in a hilly area so I expect them to wear quicker, but not this quick.

Just curious if anyone has had abnormal brake wear.
 

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It sounds like you had your pads replaced.... I haven't had pad wear issues but I have had warped rotor issues. Front rotors needed turning at about 12,000 miles on my 2016 Grand Touring. Now at 25,000 they are starting to need it again. Mazda did the work for free based on the low mileage. But needless to say, I'm not impressed with the quality of the rotors. I drive in a lot of stop and go traffic, but nothing totally abnormal.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It sounds like you had your pads replaced.... I haven't had pad wear issues but I have had warped rotor issues. Front rotors needed turning at about 12,000 miles on my 2016 Grand Touring. Now at 25,000 they are starting to need it again. Mazda did the work for free based on the low mileage. But needless to say, I'm not impressed with the quality of the rotors. I drive in a lot of stop and go traffic, but nothing totally abnormal.
Odd thing is that there was no pulsation or shimmy under braking, they did however re-surface the rotors.
 

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OP, what were the original symptoms that led to the dealer replacing your brake pads?
 

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That's ridiculously quick pad wear; I ain't buying it being actually necessary unless you're basically driving the car like a rally vehicle all the time. :)

Of course if you ARE doing that then you didn't do all that bad on pad life at all....
 

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That's ridiculously quick pad wear; I ain't buying it being actually necessary unless you're basically driving the car like a rally vehicle all the time. :)

Of course if you ARE doing that then you didn't do all that bad on pad life at all....
What this man said.

Perhaps your pins were never lubed (or if so, not done properly) and you were actually running on brakes that were slightly "on" all the time.

I got 50k out of my OEM fronts and had at least another 10k in them but replaced along with warped rotors. I'm going on 65k with my replacements and have had zero issues.

That being said, I do 400+ miles per week for commuting and it's a lot of highway, so I'm not using them as often as a more typical driver would.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That's ridiculously quick pad wear; I ain't buying it being actually necessary unless you're basically driving the car like a rally vehicle all the time. :)

Of course if you ARE doing that then you didn't do all that bad on pad life at all....
50 miles a day commuting, 60% open road, remainder in town low speed, while I enjoy driving I am not abusive.

What this man said.

Perhaps your pins were never lubed (or if so, not done properly) and you were actually running on brakes that were slightly "on" all the time.

I got 50k out of my OEM fronts and had at least another 10k in them but replaced along with warped rotors. I'm going on 65k with my replacements and have had zero issues.

That being said, I do 400+ miles per week for commuting and it's a lot of highway, so I'm not using them as often as a more typical driver would.
This is what I was wondering as well, the pads were measured at 4mm material remaining.

OP, what were the original symptoms that led to the dealer replacing your brake pads?
slight grinding noise from the right front, which was identified as a small rock and not metal to metal, the slight grove was machined out.

As an addendum to the OP, my 06 6s had an issue early in life where the dealer replaced a caliper and both front rotors and pads due to what was a sticking pad, metal to metal on the inner pad of the front left wheel. Also my 15 touring had what was likely part of the current recall for the rear as it had an issue where the inner pad on one wheel was worn down prematurely. FML, 3 mazda's 3 brake issues.
 

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4mm on all four pads? Or was it only one pad per side?

Only people I’ve ever seen wear out brakes in 12,000 miles are the older folks who drive “two-footed,” ie, right foot on the accelerator and left foot riding the brake pedal.
 

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Oh I've done it before... but I won't comment on exactly how I was driving.... (hint: I wore out a set of TIRES in about the same mileage at the same time..) :smile2:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Oh I've done it before... but I won't comment on exactly how I was driving.... (hint: I wore out a set of TIRES in about the same mileage at the same time..) :smile2:
If only I was having that much fun....
 

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Here is my deal with brakes. Car (M6 '17) 5K miles. Front rotors look new. Rear look like they have that lip/indent already. I never seen rear rotor showing wear before front. Went to dealer. They say it is normal. They say, thanks to EBD (electronic brake distribution), rear now have more wear than before. The car is not diving with its nose as much. I was suspicious if this is part of some G-vectoring or something. To be fair, I didn't feel more heat after trips in the rear vs front. then, why not put double disc rotor in the back vs thin single one?

Mazda brakes seem always an issue. I remember 98 Protege - it had issues with calipers. the designe in front was wierd to say the least. My '11 mazda3 had rotor rust issue. Imagine this - rusty rotors damaged the pads. I had to cut these rotors off the car. This week I was replacing rotors on 2009 highlander. I just put the bolt into rotor and it came right off after sitting on the car for 9 years. Mazda rotor rusted-in solid in 6 years.

and this is company that want to go "near luxury"
 

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My '11 mazda3 had rotor rust issue. Imagine this - rusty rotors damaged the pads. I had to cut these rotors off the car. This week I was replacing rotors on 2009 highlander. I just put the bolt into rotor and it came right off after sitting on the car for 9 years. Mazda rotor rusted-in solid in 6 years.

and this is company that want to go "near luxury"
Maybe 2011 and before they used materials susceptible to rust. I recently replaced brake pads on my 5 year old Mazda 6 which was always parked outside, rotors had no rust at all.
 

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Here is my deal with brakes. Car (M6 '17) 5K miles. Front rotors look new. Rear look like they have that lip/indent already. I never seen rear rotor showing wear before front. Went to dealer. They say it is normal. They say, thanks to EBD (electronic brake distribution), rear now have more wear than before. The car is not diving with its nose as much. I was suspicious if this is part of some G-vectoring or something. To be fair, I didn't feel more heat after trips in the rear vs front. then, why not put double disc rotor in the back vs thin single one?

Mazda brakes seem always an issue. I remember 98 Protege - it had issues with calipers. the designe in front was wierd to say the least. My '11 mazda3 had rotor rust issue. Imagine this - rusty rotors damaged the pads. I had to cut these rotors off the car. This week I was replacing rotors on 2009 highlander. I just put the bolt into rotor and it came right off after sitting on the car for 9 years. Mazda rotor rusted-in solid in 6 years.

and this is company that want to go "near luxury"


Blah blah blah. You think companies just shit out luxury right away? Small steps my friend.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Blah blah blah. You think companies just shit out luxury right away?
One thing I don't do is blah-blah. I walk the walk. Here is my history with Mazda
92 Protege (brother)
98 Protege (me)
05 Mazda3(niece)
10 Mazda3(me)
11 Mazda3(me)
14 Mazda CX5 (niece)
15 Mazda CX9(niece)
17 Mazda6(me)

I currently own 3 mazdas. I fixed, maintained, or just checked for "what needs to be done" in all those 8 cars. And I never had an automatic car. So, "save the manuals" enthusiasts who just talk the talk. I did everything to actually save the manuals. When I say something about Mazda, I know.
 

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One thing I don't do is blah-blah. I walk the walk. Here is my history with Mazda
92 Protege (brother)
98 Protege (me)
05 Mazda3(niece)
10 Mazda3(me)
11 Mazda3(me)
14 Mazda CX5 (niece)
15 Mazda CX9(niece)
17 Mazda6(me)

I currently own 3 mazdas. I fixed, maintained, or just checked for "what needs to be done" in all those 8 cars. And I never had an automatic car. So, "save the manuals" enthusiasts who just talk the talk. I did everything to actually save the manuals. When I say something about Mazda, I know.


You mean drive the drive ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Here is my deal with brakes. Car (M6 '17) 5K miles. Front rotors look new. Rear look like they have that lip/indent already. I never seen rear rotor showing wear before front. Went to dealer. They say it is normal. They say, thanks to EBD (electronic brake distribution), rear now have more wear than before. The car is not diving with its nose as much. I was suspicious if this is part of some G-vectoring or something. To be fair, I didn't feel more heat after trips in the rear vs front. then, why not put double disc rotor in the back vs thin single one?
Very common.

My '03 Jetta goes through rears at about TWICE the rate of fronts on brakes. It always has; the car is set up to use "more" rear braking for transfer of weight during braking, and thus, more wear.

This was NEVER done prior to ABS, because it's dangerous without it for an unskilled driver (the "swap ends" problems it can cause are VERY real!) But with the advent of ABS it's become a very common way to get more braking performance out of the vehicle and enhances safety (due to shorter stopping distances) quite a bit.

I haven't noticed a major difference in 2015 in this regard.... nowhere near like the Jetta....
 

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Huh?

BTW my 6 now has ~130,000 miles on it, it's on the second set of brakes, and they're still ok. I do expect they'll need to be done again somewhere in the next 30-40,000 miles, but that's not bad all things considered.

If you're doing brakes at 12,000 miles you drive like a maniac or something's wrong (e.g. dragging calipers, etc.)
 

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I think he means that the car would depress the brake slightly to drag the pads on the rotors which would dry out any moisture and keep the pads warm so when the driver called upon the brakes, they were at max performance when needed. The connection to this thread is that feature might lead to early break wear out.
 
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