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You need:

Motive 108 or any of the other ones with the 1108 adapter.
A liter of DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid (do NOT use DOT 5; it's not compatible with DOT 3 and 4!)
A syringe
A ~2' length of 5/16" ID clear vinyl tubing.
A pair of needle nose pliars.
A 10mm open end wrench and a 10mm SIX POINT 1/4" drive socket.

Put the car on ramps. If you're overweight, put ALL FOUR wheels on ramps, or lift all four corners (e.g. 2 sets of jackstands, etc.) You need to be able to get to the bleeders. Pop hood and remove the airbox assembly.

Open the master cylinder cap and set it aside where it will not get any dirt in/on it. Using a small pair of needle nose pliars grasp the filter (on the side) and remove it from the master cylinder. This allows you to get to all the fluid.

Using your syringe and a short piece of vinyl tubing suck as much fluid as you can out of the master cylinder. NOTE: You cannot get it all due to the way it's designed, but you can get most of it. BE CAREFUL not to spill fluid on ANY painted surface; it will EAT paint!

Now REPLACE THE SCREEN (very important; ANY debris will screw up the ABS and possibly the master!) refill the master with clean fluid from a NEW bottle you just opened. NEVER, EVER use older (stored) fluid for this.

Put the power bleeder cap on and put it under *slight* (~2-3 lbs) pressure.

Now go to the right rear of the car, remove the dust cap from the bleeder (you will have to crawl under; beware, the exhaust is right there so make sure it's cooled off!) CRACK the bleeder using the SIX POINT socket (if you strip one you are going to cry, so use the six-point!) Press the hose on the open end, danging it into a suitable receptacle. Open the bleeder (the 10mm open-end wrench of hand-pressure.) The Motive pressure can doesn't seal real well so either check it if the flow stops and give it a few more pumps or ask a friend to help. Allow it to bleed until the fluid color changes (it will not take long) and then cinch the bleeder back down and disconnect. Note that the bleeder needs to be snug but DO NOT really crank on it; they WILL break if overtightened and it's not necessary.

Go back to the master AND CHECK THE FLUID LEVEL. If it's more than 1/4 way down REFILL IT and re-attach the pressure can. Go to the left rear and repeat.

Then do the fronts, passenger side first.

LAST, if you have a MTX, is the slave clutch cylinder. This is on the FRONT of the transmission under the airbox; removing the airbox allows easy access to it. DO NOT USE A WRENCH ON THAT BLEEDER SCREW, you WILL break it as it is PLASTIC. It is large and easily turned BY HAND; it will click when open. Make sure that one is bled (it will take a bit of fluid flow to do so) and then close it as well. Again, the way you know you got the new fluid in there is that the color will change.

Top off the master cylinder to about 2/3rds full, put the cap back on, and you're done.

You CAN put fluid in the motive bleeder but I do not recommend it as it's a 5-alarm pain in the ASS to clean if you do and if the seal leaks you'll hate life with the mess it will make. I just use air pressure and top off the master cylinder.

Takes half an hour to do this way, tops. I strongly recommend changing the fluid every 2 years in normal service; EVERY European make has this as a REQUIRED maintenance interval in their manuals, but it rarely shows up in US or Jap cars at anything close to that interval. It's inexpensive to do and takes very little time, but if you do it on an annual or every 2 year basis you will probably NEVER have to change either a master cylinder or a caliper; in every vehicle I've owned since I started with this as a part of regular maintenance on 2-year or less intervals I've NEVER lost a master and NEVER lost a caliper -- and my Jetta is now 15 years old!

BTW I used to buy blue-colored fluid to alternate with amber; this made it REAL EASY to know when the old was all out. The DOT came down on the guys selling the "Super Blue" fluid due to some obscure regulation that says DOT 3 or 4 fluid has to be either clear or amber in color. Jackasses. Now you wind up using the discoloration from time as your primary guide, or you have to guess.

It is what it is.
 

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You need:

Motive 108 or any of the other ones with the 1108 adapter.
A liter of DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid (do NOT use DOT 5; it's not compatible with DOT 3 and 4!)....
Thank you Tickerguy for a great write-up. Good tip re six pt. socket too. I use vacuum bleeder i fabricated... I pull about 25" Hg at ea. bleed nipple in the same sequence. I pull off ea. nipple and put teflon tape 'round threads (only) to lessen air bypass into bleed hose. Agree 100% re two year intervals. I feel strongly about NOT stroking master cyl when bleed screw is open.... lest the MC seals travel thru rough, corroded sections of bore and start to leak.... I never lose master cylinders that way...
 
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