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Discussion Starter #1
As topic I have search thru the thread and find some ppl are hving the same problem as me, the vacuum line of the HKS BOV is just too long. You might ask me to turn the BOV but .... I can't!! Dun say me stupid as I put super glue to C-ring with BOV and the flange to make it hold better. Because I find it even I let the C-ring sit into the right place, if I try hard to turn the BOV it is still turnable. Therefore I end up using the glue~~~ Now I can't turn at all!!! Plz someone shed some lightss.....

Here is how it look like:

http://www.ozmazdaclub.com/forums/photogal...4010&fullsize=1
 

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If you can get in there with a bernzomatic torch (or similar) you can melt the crazy glue. :huh:
 

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How about this. If you can not turn the BOV then try snipping away the IC cover so the hose is not rubbing against it. Is the hood actually rubbing against the hose or the cover? Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
How about this. If you can not turn the BOV then try snipping away the IC cover so the hose is not rubbing against it. Is the hood actually rubbing against the hose or the cover? Good luck.
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I have already tried to snip away the corner of the IC cover, altho not much but I can see some improvement. The hood actually rubbing against the cover then the cover rubbing against the hose, I think it must be the hood putting some pressure on the cover and since the engine is moving so does the cover therefore it tear the hose... Can I cut the BOV vacuum line by 2cm? (that sounds stupid tho)
 

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I have already tried to snip away the corner of the IC cover, altho not much but I can see some improvement. The hood actually rubbing against the cover then the cover rubbing against the hose, I think it must be the hood putting some pressure on the cover and since the engine is moving so does the cover therefore it tear the hose... Can I cut the BOV vacuum line by 2cm? (that sounds stupid tho)
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Its actually hitting the ducting for the intercooler that is attached to the hood. Mine was doing this before I turned it. It will eventually wear a hole in the vacuum line. Can you see where it is hitting? You may have to cut a portion of the ducting where the contact is (but that would not be the best for the intercooler). Don't know if you want to try to shorten the nipple on the BOV (that seems drastic) Are you sure there is no way to turn the BOV?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Its actually hitting the ducting for the intercooler that is attached to the hood. Mine was doing this before I turned it. It will eventually wear a hole in the vacuum line. Can you see where it is hitting? You may have to cut a portion of the ducting where the contact is (but that would not be the best for the intercooler). Don't know if you want to try to shorten the nipple on the BOV (that seems drastic) Are you sure there is no way to turn the BOV?
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Hi fedinand, unless I can find some super glue remover, it is no way for me to turn now. I am sure it is impossible to leak now tho..

Acutally, do you find if you try hard to turn the BOV it will still move? That is the reason I use super glue since I heard someone's BOV flew off... I dun want that happen!
 

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I had the same problem with mine and I solved it last night, although it wasn't much fun and you'll need to get the valve off the adapter to do it. By the way, it's an O-ring seal, you should be able to turn it some, it doesn't rely on a friction fit. But, at any rate, I took the head off the valve and rotated it so that the vaccum nipple is on the bottom, not the top. The 8 screws that hold the head on the valve body are a little tough to get out as they were thread-locked into the nuts. I had to hold the nutes with a pair of plyers to get it all taken apart. I expected there to be a bunch of crap in the head that I would never be able to put back together, but in fact there was very little. The only loose parts were the spring and spring bucket.

I had been having problems with boost leakage on my valve which I solved when I opened the head. There was a lot of rubber particles in the head which were plugging the vaccum tube and causing it to maintain the vaccum in the head, thereby weakening the spring and holding the pilot valve slightly open. This is supposed to be a brand new valve, so I don't know where the crap came from, but I've been very disappointed in the valve so far, so why not have a few more things to gripe about.

Also, I did trim my IC cover back as well. It showcases the valve a little bit, but did nothing for the vaccum line. My vaccum line wore through after just a few days, thus necessitating the head rotation.

Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I had the same problem with mine and I solved it last night, although it wasn't much fun and you'll need to get the valve off the adapter to do it. By the way, it's an O-ring seal, you should be able to turn it some, it doesn't rely on a friction fit. But, at any rate, I took the head off the valve and rotated it so that the vaccum nipple is on the bottom, not the top. The 8 screws that hold the head on the valve body are a little tough to get out as they were thread-locked into the nuts. I had to hold the nutes with a pair of plyers to get it all taken apart. I expected there to be a bunch of crap in the head that I would never be able to put back together, but in fact there was very little. The only loose parts were the spring and spring bucket.

I had been having problems with boost leakage on my valve which I solved when I opened the head. There was a lot of rubber particles in the head which were plugging the vaccum tube and causing it to maintain the vaccum in the head, thereby weakening the spring and holding the pilot valve slightly open. This is supposed to be a brand new valve, so I don't know where the crap came from, but I've been very disappointed in the valve so far, so why not have a few more things to gripe about.

Also, I did trim my IC cover back as well. It showcases the valve a little bit, but did nothing for the vaccum line. My vaccum line wore through after just a few days, thus necessitating the head rotation.

Good Luck!
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OIC.. Thanks James. But what tool is require to open the head of BOV? What caution should be taken care of when I open the head?
 

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if you want the vacuum line to clear, just put some washers in between the IC cover and the threaded area.
 

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I was the guy that had the BOV fly off, thats because the c ring wasn't clamped in all the way. I had the same problem as well my hose was hiting my hood and it actually made holes in my vaccum hose. I brought my BOV to a buddy of mine who looks like king kong (muscles)
and he turned it without a problem. I cut my vaccum line to make it shorter because there were holes in it from the first time of it hiting the hood. Good luck to you :)
 

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Hi fedinand, unless I can find some super glue remover, it is no way for me to turn now. I am sure it is impossible to leak now tho..

Acutally, do you find if you try hard to turn the BOV it will still move? That is the reason I use super glue since I heard someone's BOV flew off... I dun want that happen!
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Yes it will turn - it is hard as hell to turn, but it does turn...
 

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Hey I had the smae problem also... I cut my hoze very very short. How does this affect my engine/intercooler? I cut a notch out also from my IC cover and filed it down smooth.
 

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Hey I had the smae problem also... I cut my hoze very very short. How does this affect my engine/intercooler? I cut a notch out also from my IC cover and filed it down smooth.
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the shorter, the better. as long as there are no kinks, that is. the vacuum is very important in releasing the bov piston.
 

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The head of the BOV can be removed by unscrewing the 8 small allen head screws/cap nuts. To get at these screws, you must first remove the valve cover, which is held on by 4 screws of the same size. If memory serves, these are 2.5 mm allen screws (Requires 2.5 mm wrench, that is). In the case of the valve cover, the 4 screws thread into the valve itself. In the case fo the 8 head screws, they have nuts on the back that are supposed to be held in place by indentations in the head. However, with the thread-lock on these small screws, I found that the nuts were spinning in their indentations and not loosening. So, I held onto the nuts with a pair of wire cutters. They were too small to hold with conventional pliers. It doesn't require all that much torque to loosen them, but you do have to be careful. Frankly, the nuts probably can't handle more than one or two removals before they'd be damaged beyond use. Once all 8 screws are removed, the head comes off easily. Now, just clean the thing out (while it's opened, you might as well), and rotate and reposition the head on the valve and re-install the screws.

Good Luck!!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks so much for your advise Jamespeed6. I am wondering when I open the head of BOV, what caution need to be taken? What is inside the head? Will any spring pops out and hard to re-install it back? I am paranoid of damaging the BOV by doing so.
 

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Discussion Starter #17

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Discussion Starter #18
Since I bent the nipple of the BOV and now a bit paranoid if that will affect the vacuum line pressure? I know the vacuum line is critical of opening the valve but not so sure how exactly it works. Can someone kindly shed some lights? Thanks.
 
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