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I am getting ready to install my new BOV. My friend said that it could cause issues if i put it as VTA as opposed to recirculation .

has anyone that has put an aftermarket BOV on had any "tuning" issues or "special tuning" needed to funtion properly and safely ?

i do not want to cause harm to the engine, obviously. please let me know if you've heard of any issues that could arise from just switching out the BOV without doing any computer "tuning"

thanks
 

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Don't VTA with this car. It's a boost leak that would cause your engine to run rich when venting, due to metered air being discarded. To run this properly, I believe you would need to somehow compensate (reduce/cut) fueling at the right times.
 

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I am getting ready to install my new BOV. My friend said that it could cause issues if i put it as VTA as opposed to recirculation .

has anyone that has put an aftermarket BOV on had any "tuning" issues or "special tuning" needed to funtion properly and safely ?

i do not want to cause harm to the engine, obviously. please let me know if you've heard of any issues that could arise from just switching out the BOV without doing any computer "tuning"

thanks
You should be fine just make sure you are using twin piston BOV like Bailey DV26 or Forge FMDVWO34
 

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you're just better off recircing it, you're not gaining anything from VTA.
 

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Recirculation is always ideal, but obviously VTA is obviously key for noise, and I'm guessing that's the reason you got an aftermarket BOV. Forge and Synapse BOV/BPV are what I would suggest if anything.
 

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don't we have some enterprising people moving their maf to further in system so it was just in front of the throttle body for a more "real world" reading?

I remember folks saying there were all kinds of advantages to doing that, including being able to vta if desired
 

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The BEST BPV is the stock BPV. Anything else requires serious compromise in performance and/or maintenance. If you want noise, the TXS RFL version is the BEST and LOUDEST.
 

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The BEST BPV is the stock BPV. Anything else requires serious compromise in performance and/or maintenance. If you want noise, the TXS RFL version is the BEST and LOUDEST.
That's good to know about the TXS RFL
 

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I'm running an HKS SSQV III, by force since my stocker took a crap. I have to say I didn't notice any difference in performance, but I did notice on my mech boost gauge that the needle doesn't flutter anymore like it did with the stocker under boost. The noise isn't really loud compared to others. It has a nice swoosh to it actually. I need to get a stock one...
 

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Actually, the 'best' one, is a Mitsu/DSM one. Youll even find GNX guys running them, and they are dirt cheap :)
 

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The COBB BOV looks interesting. Has anyone tried it in full recirc mode? They offer the same product in other platforms like the GTR.

Good question. I've looked at it on their web site and it appears to be well made. Why don't you buy one and let us know!?
 

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I use the out-dated Greddy Type-S that's been sitting in my garage for 7+ years. I keep it in recirc mode and I think it holds boost better than the stock but that's just my opinion. I had it VTA when I first put it on and the Type-S sounds badass but it got kind of annoying lol. Daily driving plus "PSHHHH" every time I shift was getting old so I put it back to recirc mode where it operates much better. I would occasionally have a backfire when VTA also from it running too rich.
All in all, I suggest leaving it recirc. Healthier and less noise pollution.
 

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don't we have some enterprising people moving their maf to further in system so it was just in front of the throttle body for a more "real world" reading?

I remember folks saying there were all kinds of advantages to doing that, including being able to vta if desired


blow thru definately owns draw thru



but to the OP, like everyone said, if you arent going to go to a blow thru setup then just recirc or do a hybrid setup like some run. even hybid its still loosing some metered air and such, just not as much.
 
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