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so if i wanted to add an additional tweeter to the bose setup... i would just tap into the solid black and solid green for the front left speaker? or do i just use one line to tap into? sorry, i'm a newb when it comes to electrical things!
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i'm sure you can use the speaker wires that are already there, yes the looms will be there, and then all you have to do is resplace the speakers with the bose ones, and the headunit with the bose one...i think if thats what you mean by bose setup. It might get a little tricky with the bose sub though, because there are two amps in the car...one for interior speakers, and one for amp for the sub...

good luck...
 

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Do you guys think it'll be ok if i piggy back the rear doors speaker to the front ones or will that be to much for the front channels? I'm using hte frear channels for the hi/low converter.
 

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Ok so I have been reading and reading. If I understand correctly, The Bose HU sends a pre amp signal to the Bose amp. So I want to add a sub, but I want to have full control of the bass, frequency and width. To do this I bought a AudioControl Epic-160 http://www.mobileaudiocontrol.com/product....1=17612&l2= . So I hacked into my factory HU harness tapped in some RCA to the back speaker output. I then hooked those RCA into the Epic 160, with the output RCA to my Alpine MRP-M650. I have my amp powered by the battery with a 4 gauge wire hooked to a 2.5 farad cap. The amp is hooked to a 12" kicker Comp VR sub. So to me everything is hooked up right, but my sub still doesn't get as loud as it used to in my mazda 3 with an alpine aftermarket HU. Do you guys have any suggestions or maybe concerns if I wired anything wrong?
 

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I am installing my aftermarket amp soon. Is the blue/red striped wire connected to the sub's mini amp used for the remote turn on lead? (12v)
 

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I also have the 2006 M6s and I have a question that I can't seem to find after looking at all these diagrams and reading... what color are the wires coming from the tweeters and where do they go... thanks.

S/F
Justin
 

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QUOTE (Jarrhead @ Mar 12 2007, 11:02 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=953025
Ok so I have been reading and reading. If I understand correctly, The Bose HU sends a pre amp signal to the Bose amp. So I want to add a sub, but I want to have full control of the bass, frequency and width. To do this I bought a AudioControl Epic-160 http://www.mobileaudiocontrol.com/product....1=17612&l2= . So I hacked into my factory HU harness tapped in some RCA to the back speaker output. I then hooked those RCA into the Epic 160, with the output RCA to my Alpine MRP-M650. I have my amp powered by the battery with a 4 gauge wire hooked to a 2.5 farad cap. The amp is hooked to a 12" kicker Comp VR sub. So to me everything is hooked up right, but my sub still doesn't get as loud as it used to in my mazda 3 with an alpine aftermarket HU. Do you guys have any suggestions or maybe concerns if I wired anything wrong?[/b]
you are tapping into a low signal wire. this wire is putting out low voltage (not sure how much) your aftermarket alpine (depending on model) puts out at least 5v+ so the signal is exponentially better. try wiring to the factory bose harness at the rear of the car or at the bose amp output (amplified signal). but it still wont be as "loud" as your aftermarket headunit.
 

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Need help from the experts to make sure this goes right - installing aftermarket HU into wife's 2003 6 (that's why it has to go right). Using Metra kit. How is the sub connected? I don't see a sub out in the Mazda HU connector diagrams. Does the factory amp create the sub signal from the speaker signals, or do I need to connect the aftermarket sub-out to give the amp a separate sub signal, and if so, where.

Thanks
 

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Hey does anyone know the correct size of the 5-door model sub? I happen to measure it and I got 6 inch? Is that correct I notice the sedan has 8 inch? Althought it's weird shape sub.
Khris
 

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i've only had my 05 mazda6 s for about 4 months. how can you tell if its equipped with a bose system? i know my car has tweeters in the front but theres no sub. im just a little confused i'm actually thinking of upgrading my factory system but i just need to know what system i have.
 

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Installing Amp and Sub into Hatchback / 5door style.
*** DO NOT USE THE SIGNAL WIRES AT THE SUB ***
1) Run an independent power cable from the battery through your car to your New amp. [I ran mine along the Driver side of the car]
2)Install fuse on power cable within 12" of battery terminal
3)Tap the Big Blue with Red stripe at the BOSE sub connector to use as your NEW amps "remote on"
4) Find an appropriate place to securely ground your NEW amp using a bolt for the seat to the frame or any within a few feet of the New amp.
5)Go under the PASSANGER SEAT to access the BOSE System amp. Disconnect the connector. The wires here are as follows: http://www.msprotege.com/members/1sty/mazda6%20bose%20ampplug.bmp

The wires are:
A - Rear Left Speaker Output (-)
B - Front Left Speaker Output (+)
C - Rear Left Speaker Output (+)
D - Front Left Speaker Output (-)
E -
F -
G - Front Left Head Unit Input (-)
H - Front Left Head Unit Input (+)
I - Rear Left Head Unit Input (-)
J - Rear Left Head Unit Input (+)
K - Front Right Head Unit Input (-)
L - Front Right Head Unit Input (+)
M - Rear Right Head Unit Input (-)
N - Rear Right Head Unit Input (+)
O - Subwoofer Amp Line Output (-)
P - Subwoofer Amp Line Output (+)
Q - Remote Turn on From Head unit
R -
S -
T -
U - Constant 12 Volt Power
V - Ground
W - Front Right Speaker Output (+)
X - Rear Right Speaker Output (-)
Y - Front Right Speaer Output (-)
Z - Rear Right Speaker Output (+)

6)Use the diagram to find the appropriate wires to tap.
***YOU MUST USE THE REAR INPUT WIRES***
[My sub is Mono so I used the Rear Right+ and the Rear Left- (so if for some reason i was to fade the system left or right i wouldn't lose bass only to one side or the other)

7) tap wires need to be converted into L&R RCA, use a "Y" Splitter to do this.
8) run your RCA cable along the Passenger side to your amp.
*9) Optional - Some amps allow for a remote gain control, run this wire as needed to an secure place up front within reach of the driver seat
9) Now you have your Ground, 12v Power, Remote on, Remote Gain, and Signals!
10) connect your sub up according to your amps manual and your good to go!


My set up:
1 - JL Audio 12" 3v3
1- JL Audio J2 500.1 Amp

Hope this helps!
 

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I have a2004 Mazda 6 with a Bose system in it. I want tohook up a amp with two subs. In the rear deck there is a small sub already with wire colors Blue with red stripe,black,brown,andblack with red stripe. Can i tap off these wires to turn my amp on and to feed it the sub signal?
 

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I have a2004 Mazda 6 with a Bose system in it. I want tohook up a amp with two subs. In the rear deck there is a small sub already with wire colors Blue with red stripe,black,brown,andblack with red stripe. Can i tap off these wires to turn my amp on and to feed it the sub signal?
NO. Been there Tried that... You can tap the large blue one (which is 12v power) and use that as a signal on/off for your new amp. but you have to look under your passenger seat. There you will see the BOSE system amp. you dont need to remove the passanger seat just push it allo the way forward. be sure to unscre the 2 bolts holding it in place first. you need to tap the left and right INPUTS. refer to my previous post doe the wires and which each is. (look at wires I,J and M,N) Don't be tempted to use the sub output.
http://forum.mazda6club.com/3309138-post33.html

if you have a mono amp that doesn't combine signals automatically, you'll need to take a left in + or negative and the Right in + or - (the opposite of the left obviously) Other wise just tap bot ins and run your RCA's to your Amp.

Hope this helps.
 

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Well i went a diiferent route installing a sound ordiance (similliar like infinity basslink) this is what I find strange is that tap rear speaker as u mention but use the hi-power input on the amp and but these two for power tap the yellow wire for constant 12, blue/black for remote and the it work fine, since it works should I leave it with that constant power? or run a dedicated power from the battery?
 

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Well i would suggest that a dedicated power supply from your battery directly to your amp (via inline fuse of course) is safest and best. Depending on the draw of your amp, you may exceed the rating on that wire and might cause problems like a short or fire in worst case scenario. Just a suggestion. it doesn't take much to run the wire and shouldn't cost much either.
 

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I know it does not cost much to buy, my package came with two kits I just sort lazy to run it neat and I try to poke a hole throught the firewall nothing happen so i gave and deceide to tap that yellow wire, i guess use for the time been and until I get around to run the amp own power.
 

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No sound

Okay so i bought a 2006 mazda 6s. it has a bose system in it i bought it through a an auction and they said the radio worked. But when i went and picked it up it does turn on but i cant hear anything. and if i get another speaker and connect it directly into the radio through the back you could hear it a little bit. i have no clue why i cant hear on the car speakers. Do they have a stock amp that might be burned or something and if they do could you guys please tell me were it is located at. Oh and i took off a speaker from the car and tried it on a different radio and they do work.. Could any of you tell me something about my problem thanks
 
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