Fair enough, at least i understand it, im not really investing a ton into a huge system though either, if going the sub route means alot more work ill skip it, how much is sound deadening going to cost me to do it right?Sorry for the late response. I accidentally sent the notification to the weekly summary. Anyway, I have two answers to your question, but more importantly, why wouldn’t you want to sound deaden more? It seems pointless to me to invest in a sound system that is going to be plagued by rattles and road noise. I have a thread on 6Crew: http://www.6crew.com/forum/showthread.php?22617-Operation-Lexus-Quiet&highlight=lexus+quiet, which goes into using it.
On to your answers. There are two reasons why rattling occurs.
1. The back deck has areas in it that have two panels that are really close together, when you add the weight of a good sub (the factory BOSE sub is plastic and weighs nothing), these panels get very close together, enough so that when the base hits, they actually touch and buzz.
2. Output on the new sub is so much higher than the BOSE sub, plus the BOSE sub supports more midrange than true low end frequencies. These low-end frequencies cause all those little clips in the back deck to vibrate and rattle around crazy. You don’t really notice it at really high volumes, but lower volume will drive you nuts.
When I first swapped mine out, I did “spot” insulation, and ended up ripping everything apart again and re-doing it, fully.
That seems about right. I used THIS KIT, 36 sq. ft., and got a lot done. I got some in the trunk lid too, but I ran out before I could get to the deck. If I can do this for $95, surely you can do the deck for $50...so if i wanted to do just the read deck what, 50 bucks max?