Mazda 6 Forums banner

221 - 240 of 265 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,438 Posts
I installed a JBL GTO804 following the instructions (which were perfect by the way). My HUGE issue is rattling. What does everyone think the best route would be? I think 10 SQ FT of Second Skin Damplifier on the top should be enough.... I hope.

Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated!

I also have an extra MDF ring 10" OD and 7-1/4" ID if anyone wants it. $8 + shipping.
Some would be fine but Damplifier (and similar products) are meant to eliminate/reduce metal panel resonance. So they will not directly eliminate rattles, though they can and will reduce rattles. Your best bet would be to go with some mass loaded vinyl, like Luxury Liner (just using Second Skin products as an example, you could use similar products to LL or LLP), in between the panels to eliminate rattles (in between the rear deck cover and rear deck).

Edit: Also, be sure to replace any clips you may have broken while removing the panels. I've broken all most all of mine, but I have taken the panels apart more times than a normal person would.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Some would be fine but Damplifier (and similar products) are meant to eliminate/reduce metal panel resonance. So they will not directly eliminate rattles, though they can and will reduce rattles. Your best bet would be to go with some mass loaded vinyl, like Luxury Liner (just using Second Skin products as an example, you could use similar products to LL or LLP), in between the panels to eliminate rattles (in between the rear deck cover and rear deck).

Edit: Also, be sure to replace any clips you may have broken while removing the panels. I've broken all most all of mine, but I have taken the panels apart more times than a normal person would.
See the rattles are apparent even with all the panels off from the front seats back. So it isn't the panels against the metal. It occurs inside of the hollow metal structure that creates the rear deck. I will try to pin point it more tonight, but pressing on the ledge seemed to do nothing.

What has everyone else done? Success?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,438 Posts
Rattles are caused by two things physically touching each other. It would mean, possibly there is something loose inside the rear deck. With sound deadening, your best approach is to locate the rattles, first, then address the specific issue with deadening so that you do not end up wasting time and money.

Are you confusing rattles with resonance?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Rattles are caused by two things physically touching each other. It would mean, possibly there is something loose inside the rear deck. With sound deadening, your best approach is to locate the rattles, first, then address the specific issue with deadening so that you do not end up wasting time and money.

Are you confusing rattles with resonance?
I appreciate the responses. If it was resonance I think me placing my hands on the metal and pressing down would act as a dampener to reduce it. It does not.

I just have to dig into it more and find out exactly where it is. Was more less looking for an opinion on whether it is worth laying a layer of damplifier/fat mat/dynamat down on top. And the results.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,438 Posts
I appreciate the responses. If it was resonance I think me placing my hands on the metal and pressing down would act as a dampener to reduce it. It does not.

I just have to dig into it more and find out exactly where it is. Was more less looking for an opinion on whether it is worth laying a layer of damplifier/fat mat/dynamat down on top. And the results.
I understand. I'm trying to help you. Like I said in my first response, it would help you by putting something like that on the rear deck, but it most likely will not solve your problem. So in order to save your time and money, I think the best approach would be to try and locate the problem area first then treat it.

If you find the area but can not find the problem, you're next choice would be something to fill the void in the rear deck, something like a spray foam (permanent) or stuffing the area with closed cell foam.

If you don't have cld on the rear deck at all then put a couple sheets if you happen to have some. I have about 6-8 sheets total on top and below the rear deck (you want it on both sides). Though that may be more then enough for you. It was necessary for me though because my sub will destroy the rear deck if it's left without deadening. Even with deadening, at low frequencies, my sub will flex the rear deck. But my sub is slightly larger than yours, JBL W15 GTI MKII.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
I understand. I'm trying to help you. Like I said in my first response, it would help you by putting something like that on the rear deck, but it most likely will not solve your problem. So in order to save your time and money, I think the best approach would be to try and locate the problem area first then treat it.

If you find the area but can not find the problem, you're next choice would be something to fill the void in the rear deck, something like a spray foam (permanent) or stuffing the area with closed cell foam.

If you don't have cld on the rear deck at all then put a couple sheets if you happen to have some. I have about 6-8 sheets total on top and below the rear deck (you want it on both sides). Though that may be more then enough for you. It was necessary for me though because my sub will destroy the rear deck if it's left without deadening. Even with deadening, at low frequencies, my sub will flex the rear deck. But my sub is slightly larger than yours, JBL W15 GTI MKII.
So what ended up "rattling" was the wood ring against the metal. So I have purchased some second skin damplifier and some foam insulation tape. I am going to damplify the top and bottom of the rear deck. And put the tape around the base of the wood ring to eliminate rattling.

Quick question though, is putting damplifier over all the holes enough/a good idea? Or should I fill the voids with something else well. Much of an improvement (tighter bass, cleaner sound)?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,438 Posts
If the baffle touching the metal was the only thing rattling, all you need to do is get a tube of silicone or a liquid gasket product and use it in between the metal and the baffle to decouple them, then if you ever wanted to return it to stock, use a knife to cut the baffle off and just scrape the residue off.

Since you have the deadener, I'd just take a square out, cut a hole in the center for the sub, then place the piece of deadener on the metal (make sure it's stuck to the metal) then place the baffle and sub back on.

For the holes and stuff, it will help if you do that but it would be better to eliminate the "hollowness" of the rear deck. Stuff it with some dense closed cell foam, or go the permanent route of a foam gap filler (Great Stuff, you can get at a hardware store) and just spray a little in, let it dry, spray some more, and so on. Not all at once, that spray foam needs oxygen to cure so if you completely fill it at once there will be areas in the center that cure very slowly or never cure. Or you could use a urethane foam that doesn't need air to cure. But either way be careful if you do too much at a time because it could deform the metal if you just completely fill it at one time. Then put damplifier over the surface and bottom of the metal of the rear deck.

Oh and as to how much it will improve the performance, I can't guarantee anything. Ideally it's necessary to do when using a sub in this situation, but as to whether or not you will notice a difference, I can't say. May be a big difference, may be minimal, may be slight. I found it does help though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
If the baffle touching the metal was the only thing rattling, all you need to do is get a tube of silicone or a liquid gasket product and use it in between the metal and the baffle to decouple them, then if you ever wanted to return it to stock, use a knife to cut the baffle off and just scrape the residue off.

Since you have the deadener, I'd just take a square out, cut a hole in the center for the sub, then place the piece of deadener on the metal (make sure it's stuck to the metal) then place the baffle and sub back on.

For the holes and stuff, it will help if you do that but it would be better to eliminate the "hollowness" of the rear deck. Stuff it with some dense closed cell foam, or go the permanent route of a foam gap filler (Great Stuff, you can get at a hardware store) and just spray a little in, let it dry, spray some more, and so on. Not all at once, that spray foam needs oxygen to cure so if you completely fill it at once there will be areas in the center that cure very slowly or never cure. Or you could use a urethane foam that doesn't need air to cure. But either way be careful if you do too much at a time because it could deform the metal if you just completely fill it at one time. Then put damplifier over the surface and bottom of the metal of the rear deck.

Oh and as to how much it will improve the performance, I can't guarantee anything. Ideally it's necessary to do when using a sub in this situation, but as to whether or not you will notice a difference, I can't say. May be a big difference, may be minimal, may be slight. I found it does help though.
I plan to install exactly the way you had described it. I don't plan to use the great stuff foam though. I heard its a mess and can be a big pain. I may go the route of the notorious blue camping pad at WalMart to stuff up there.

What is the purpose of the huge rear deck holes for the stock Bose sub, when an IB setup prefers to separate the front/rear sound waves?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,438 Posts
I plan to install exactly the way you had described it. I don't plan to use the great stuff foam though. I heard its a mess and can be a big pain. I may go the route of the notorious blue camping pad at WalMart to stuff up there.

What is the purpose of the huge rear deck holes for the stock Bose sub, when an IB setup prefers to separate the front/rear sound waves?
It's not messy if you do it correctly. And yes the other route may work fine, or any dense foam material.

Same reason a lot of cars have big holes and gaps in the inner door panels (granted ours are covered), the car is made, then the audio is made to fit the car, if you're lucky.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
I installed a JBL GTO804 following the instructions (which were perfect by the way). My HUGE issue is rattling. What does everyone think the best route would be? I think 10 SQ FT of Second Skin Damplifier on the top should be enough.... I hope.

Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated!

I also have an extra MDF ring 10" OD and 7-1/4" ID if anyone wants it. $8 + shipping.
I initially went with the e3.8 but then change to the JBL GTO804 also and it's much better. I am in the process of testing it before I put everything back..found out that the seat belt bracket also rattle, you might want to take at that also...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
I initially went with the e3.8 but then change to the JBL GTO804 also and it's much better. I am in the process of testing it before I put everything back..found out that the seat belt bracket also rattle, you might want to take at that also...
The GTO804 is a kick a$$ sub. It's working great for me. I stuffed some of the Walmart blue camping pad in between the sheet metal in the rear deck, followed by putting some SS damplifier pro on the top and WOW what a difference. Just that alone changed how the sub plays and how little the rattles are (if any).

I appreciate all the help!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
155 Posts
Pretty much an super old thread but ... I wanna do this on my 6 so I can save some space, not that a use it a lot but i dont like just having a box on my trunk, so i wanna move the pseaker up, is a 12" ... did he ever mentioned having rattles? I read some pages and couldnt find anything
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,438 Posts
Pretty much an super old thread but ... I wanna do this on my 6 so I can save some space, not that a use it a lot but i dont like just having a box on my trunk, so i wanna move the pseaker up, is a 12" ... did he ever mentioned having rattles? I read some pages and couldnt find anything
If you mean, attaching the subwoofer to the rear deck facing up, then you will be pretty much guaranteed to have rattles unless you use sound deadening or don't listen to the subwoofer very loudly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
i know this thread is from 2009 and hopefully i get an answer but where do you find those 8 in subs! i cant find them anywhere! if you could, please post links where i could find one! thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,438 Posts
i know this thread is from 2009 and hopefully i get an answer but where do you find those 8 in subs! i cant find them anywhere! if you could, please post links where i could find one! thanks!
Any sub that can be used in a sealed box can be used in IB, if installed properly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
My factory amp decided to crap out(sometimes). I replaced it with an older Rockford 200aIV. I got everything hooked up and am running it off 1 channel(50W RMS @ 2 ohm). Still using factory sub.

I'm getting a terrible signal from the factory inputs. I had it working good(not strong though) with the car off. I couldn't increase the gain much past 1/2-2/3 without having some bad "noise". Once I started the car, I had major signal issues. Even with the receiver off, the sub was going crazy. I turned down the gain to about 1/4 and it was better, but I could tell it was a bad signal. As soon as I unhooked the RCA's from the amp, everything quieted down(eliminated the possibility of feedback through power, ground or remote wires). I did notice that if I reved the engine it would change the "noise" when the RCA's were connected.

I decided to try hooking up an Ipod to the inputs of the receiver(headphone to RCA adapter) and it worked great. I could crank up the gain and volume to almost max with little distortion(except for the rattles).

Could it be the connection I have between the car lines and the RCA's? I just put some crimp connectors on there, is that my issue? I can solder them together, but I was going the "easy" way(or so I thought). Could it be the aftermarket amp and factory sub?
Are there filters in the factory amp? I may try to hook my homemade garage speakers(they use car speakers) and see what it does.

I copied the RCA splitting in the link below(except for the quickconnects to the factory lines).
How-To: Wire a Sub to stock MAZDASPEED6



Any input appreciated.

Thanks in advance.


EDIT: I rewired the RCA’s and soldered all connections. No change. I tried just connecting the positive wire(black/red stripe), no change.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,438 Posts
Did you wrap the bare wire with electrical wire or heat shrink? I would just check to make sure nothing's touching anything first. Then I would go to maybe the Stock Bose amp under the seat is crapping out (it produces the line level signal for the Bose stock sub amp, which is connected directly to the sub).

If you can use the signal from to car on those garage speakers you have or some other setup to verify the signal from the car is bad that will help you figure it out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Did you wrap the bare wire with electrical wire or heat shrink? I would just check to make sure nothing's touching anything first. Then I would go to maybe the Stock Bose amp under the seat is crapping out (it produces the line level signal for the Bose stock sub amp, which is connected directly to the sub).

If you can use the signal from to car on those garage speakers you have or some other setup to verify the signal from the car is bad that will help you figure it out.
I did have everything all heat shrunk and secured during initial testing. I made sure there wasn't anything crossing(that I could see).

I thought the amp under the seat didn't do anything to the sub signal(just a pass through for the sub line level's). Are you saying that amp does affect the signal at the sub? Or, can I take the sub inputs to the amp under the seat and wire that directly to my sub amp.

If that's true, that may be why my factory sub amp was crapping out. The bad signal could have been affecting the amp causing it to shutdown.

Thanks for the response and any more info you have. I'll have to see about getting my home speaker hooked up and post results.

Thanks again.

EDIT: I just thought of something. I currently have the remote wire running with the RCA wires(zip tied to the same points). Could that be causing the issues?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,438 Posts
The remote wire shouldn't be affecting it. I used the same setup (tap off the stock sub signal) for awhile until I removed all of the Bose equipment.

Yes the stock Bose amp underneath the passenger seat creates the sub signal which is then sent back to the stock sub amp where the signal is convert to speaker level to power the stock Bose subwoofer. The stock head unit does not produce a sub signal.

It is possible that the Bose sub signal output of the amp under the passenger seat was acting up causing the problems that you had originally.

If you take the sub signal from the amp under the passenger seat, it will be the same signal you have right now. It would only solve your problem if there is a problem somewhere along the stock wiring itself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Thinking again, what the output on the stock sub amp? This amp puts out 50W RMS @ 2ohm(factory sub measured ~1.8ohm) which I would think is similar or same as the factory amp. What about the factory amp with the original Preamp booster(some guy on here made it), what's the power output of that?

Another question about the amp under the seat. Is that really just a preamp and not actually putting out any power? Aren't the speaker amps all at the speakers?

Thanks again. I'd really like to figure this out before it gets too cold out.
 
221 - 240 of 265 Posts
Top