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I remember there being a post on how to remove all that crap without too many issues. Dgann posted it(see below). Might be another one with pics but this search engine sucks and I'm lazy. If I were you I'd put a layer of sound deadener between metal and anything you put on. Theres been talk that the deck lid will rattle if you hook a lot to it but no one has tried to actually fix it that I've seen. If you put a layer top and bottom that shit aint movin. Good luck and show me some pics if you ever do it.


"5.) I removed the factory sub, so I had to take the carpeted rear deck-lid out. Take the bench seat out, then the eight (8) bolts that hold the two (2) folding seats, then the two side pillar cushions (one (1) bolt at the bottom and a finger latch at the top), the gray upper pillar covers that only "snap" in and finally pop the carpeted deck-lid up. You can now remove the factory subwoofer. I also grounded add this point with 4 gauge and routed to a distribution block. I grounded to the center baby car-seat tiedown - removed all paint and also used a toothed, lock ring. I have no alternator whine at all."
 

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heheh there is more than just "talk" about the rear deck rattling. My little 8" ID8 I had in it as a temp solution rattling it like a mofo and that was with 4 layers of sound deadener with the sub in an IB setup getting only 160w. The only way I seriously thing you can fix the rear deck to handle some wattage is to bolt some MDF along with some silicon sealant in between for a decent seal so you can significantly lower it's resonant frequency of the deck. I personally don't want to do that much work for an 8" sub.

BTW if you use a 10" you will most likely be cutting the deck a bit to get it to fit properly. ZSilver6 tried this like over a year ago (iirc) and switched to an enclosed sub because the deck rattled so much.
 

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I'll probably just put a 3/4" MDF panel spanning the entire deck with some sound deadener on each side plus the top of the deck. Then I can mount the sub to the MDF along with the amp on one side. That way I don't have to worry about screws poking through the deck. The panel going all the way across and mounted at enough pointes shouldn't allow the deck to flex because of the added rigidity. Plus I don't plan on a lot of power. Just a tad more than the 2w stock POS. I want everything to be as stock looking as possible but it'll def have a 10". Now if only I had the balls to splice RCA's into a stock harness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Originally posted by smithc01@Apr 20 2005, 08:37 PM
Now that we have this topic under control.  Anyone attack the amp under the passenger's seat?
[snapback]396147[/snapback]​


:D that and the speakers are my next project :D now the only thing i need 1000 bucks anyone want let me borrow some money lol
 

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Theres a ton of topics on the amp under the seats. Its the same operation basically but you tap the lines coming from the head unit to the amp. Make them RCA's and put in your new amp
 

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My search button seems to be broken. Do you have any links of people that have actually done this. Maybe a cardomain.com link? Just haven't found a topic that has been as in depth as this one.
 

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The pinned Bose info has the wire colors and everything. Just have to tap into it below the seat but going closer to the head unit will give a better signal.
The below is the title of the one i know of:

Replaced Speakers, Amp, Sub in Bose System

I don't know how to do a hyperlink, anyone wanna step up on this. Dgann was the person who posted it.
 

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I have a question about the signal wires that run from the bose amplifier under the pasenger's seat (highs) to the bose amplifier located in the trunk (subwoofer). I understand that the blue/red wire is the power for the amplifier which is connected to a relay that is activated when the ignition is in the on position. I understand that the black wire is connected to ground.

The brown wire along with black/red wire are signal wires and these are the wires that I have a question about. In the wiring diagram provided elsewhere in this forum it shows these wires as being shielded. If they are indeed shielded than you would have to seperate the inner and outer conductors of these wires in order to splice them into another set of RCA wires for use with your aftermarket amplifier. The picture in the guide utilizes crimp connectors for splicing into these (shielded?) wires which would effectively render the shielding worthless as all noise would be passed right into the amplifier along with the signal. Could someone please clarify for me if these wires are simply single conductor wires or if they are indeed shielded cables.

Thanks
 

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So you are saying that the bose system doesnt use shielded signal wires from the head unit to the high range amp or from the high range amp to the sub amp? In this case it is using line level inputs for the amplifiers and any noise introduced to the signal wires in amplified before being sent to the speakers?
 

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The Bose amplifier is probably using a differential circuit in the amp. Any common signal, in this case noise (electro-magnetic radiation -EMR- or radio frequency interference -RFI-), found on both the left and right will automatically be cancelled by the closed-loop cirucit. After the low-level signal is filtered it is amplified and sent to the speaker. This technology is very common for most quality aftermarket amplifiers too.

Now YOU have to worry about filtering the power line for noise and finding a quiet ground. A good quality amplifier will have a filter circuit already built-in so you must find a quiet ground to complete the circuit. A quiet ground will not have other electrical components near it. For example, the ground path for the rear lamps needs to get from the back of the car to the battery. Of course they simply ground the bulbs to the chassis of the car. If your amp is in the same path you could potentially get noise such as popping when you step on the brakes or turn you parking lights on or off.
 

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Originally posted by Karen6@Sep 15 2005, 03:05 PM
So you are saying that the bose system doesnt use shielded signal wires from the head unit to the high range amp or from the high range amp to the sub amp?  In this case it is using line level inputs for the amplifiers and any noise introduced to the signal wires in amplified before being sent to the speakers?
[snapback]508974[/snapback]​
I dont think I said any of that. I said the wires arent shielded. First off, I would have to ask, what are wanting to do? Add an amp? a sub?. I have zero noise in my system. No popping, cracking, whinning. Sounds great.
 

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Originally posted by HemiMazda@Sep 15 2005, 03:50 PM
I dont think I said any of that. I said the wires arent shielded. First off, I would have to ask, what are wanting to do? Add an amp? a sub?. I have zero noise in my system. No popping, cracking, whinning. Sounds great.
[snapback]509111[/snapback]​
Woops! Wrong quote.... should goto Karen6
 

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Does anyone know what the related wires are on the 5-door HATCHBACK......

red/blue = 12volt remote
black = ground

i also got a few other wires....

1 solid brown wire (orange looking wire)
1 red&black wire
1 brown&black (looks orange/black)

if anyone knows which ones of these i need to splice into with the RCA's i think i got a good grip on what I need to do inorder to blow off the window on my 6.

i'm trying to attach a picture also but not to sure if it'll work.....

CHEERSSS :cheers:
 

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Rally Racer
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A link for Audio System Wiring Diagram 2004 Mazda 6
search: "bose amp harness wiring diagram"

I realize this is an old thread but it has some of the most relevant information for doing this modification. Since the pictures are missing after the site update.... I am including a link for others who wander down this path.
 

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I’m taking a old aftermarket system out of my car and I have two wires soldered onto the factory subwoofer that hooked up to the remote for the aftermarket stuff. Where did these go before?
 

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Hello
I’m taking a old aftermarket system out of my car and I have two wires soldered onto the factory subwoofer that hooked up to the remote for the aftermarket stuff. Where did these go before?
Welcome to the group.
Two wires soldered to the factory sub-that went to the amp remote? I bt they ran nowhere before. hey were likely added as part of the project.
The Bose sub has 4 wire coming in o the plug as you can see in the wiring diagram posted.
Blue with red stripe = Power from accessory (HU)
Black = Ground (attached behind HU in dash)
Black with red stripe = audio signal (+)
Brown = audio signal (+)

If the wires come directly off the sub-woofer itself and not the integrated amp the wires were likely signal wires for the aftermarket amp that sat in the trunk.
 
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