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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i am installing a after market subs and a amp, i looked through this forum but i wasn't able to find out which of the wires goes to which on the bose sub harness. i see 4 wires, 2 big ones and 2 small ones. i am guessing the 2 big ones are power and ground and the 2 small wires are the rca preamps. i was just wondering if i am right on this any one know anything about this.
 

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well, normally you would have a big red and a big black wire, power and ground going to the amp, which is the same in this case, then you have a set of speaker wire, of course not normal wire but sub wires, going from the amp to the sub, that stays normal, now from what im getting around here is that you can fabricate the rca wires that go into the amp and have them connect to the little sub output in the trunk, i havent gotten my stuff installed yet, so i cant tell you what the little wire harness is, im hoping to get it done next week, so i will let you guys know what happend with that.
 

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Should be a black for the ground, blue with red stripe I think is the remote turn on. The other 2 are the ones used to splice into an RCA cable. Will have to strip down RCA cable, splice the outer wire to the black grounded wire, splice the center wire of the RCA to the smaller wires, left an right. Can use the blue/red as the remote turn on. I think that is about it, been over a year since I installed mine. Good luck to you on your install, post some pics when your done..
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks for all the info. i will try the rca trick tomarrow tomarrow. . right now i connected a line out convertor to the 2 signal wires going to the sub. but the signal wasn't strong at all. the needles on my amp barly moved when the bass hit. i was also surprised how easy it was to run my 4 gauge power wire through. i was planning on taking about an hour to run the power wire but i got the sucker ran from the battery to the trunk in like 15 minutes. i will post some pics up soon so anyone planning on upgrading there system could get an idea of how to do it
 

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Dude, Pics would totally be sweet, since this gets asked so much and very little has been actually shown with pics. Lets have it and good luck
 

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This actually has been explained awhile ago at 6tech and somewhere within the bowels of the forum someone took pics of an installation using the sub connector. 6tech used to have a working article with pics here:

http://forum.mazda6tech.com/viewtopic.php?t=191

but those pics have vanished since I last looked at it.

As far as the LOC... it doesn't surprise me that the LOC would get a weak signal from the line since those are line level outs and not speaker level outputs, I'm sure once you do RCA's the signal quality will improve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well i finally wired my amp and subs into the bose system here are some pics of the installtion.

Well here is my Small DIY on installing sub and amp to the stock bose sub


i am running 4 gauge power wire.




To run the power wire through the fire wall you might want to remove the battery so you get some room by the firewall to work with. Its a tight fit between the battery and the firewall.




To run the power wire through the fire wall i used a half inch drill bit to drill a hole in the plastic plug under the steering column on the firewall




Then i poped off the bottom part of the fuse panel and ran the wire underneath the panel and put it back in place. the cover for the fuse take little bit of time to go back on properly



i poped out all the side sill trim and ran the wire underneath and poped it back into place all the way to the trunk.



The best grounding point i found in the back was the bolt holding the rear seat bracket in place


I used EZTap connectors from pepboys, this was i don't have to do any cutting



For the remote lead i used to stock bose sub power wire (Blue with red line) since it shuts off as soon as the key is off




For the RCA lines i had to cut off the terminals of my rca cable. i had to strip down RCA cable, splice the outer wire to the black grounded wire, splice the center wire of the RCA to the stock line output of the bose sub harness. the line outputs on the bose sub harness is brown w/silver stripes and black with red and silver stripes

The outer wire from the rca cable thats stripped needs to be grounded using the black wire from the bose sub wiring harness.


Thanks to TheMaz39 and SpeedYellowV6 for the RCA line help



Wiring diagram for the bose sub wiring harness

Blue and Red - Key on Power (could be used as remote turn on
Black - Ground (used to ground the rca lines
Brown W/ Silver Stripe- Line Out
Black W/ Silver and Red line-Line Out










here is my amp and my temporary wireing set up. The wires will be cut to length and redone next weekend when i get time



and my subs 2 12' Audiobahn Natural Excursion Series 550 RMS i know its not the best subs but it gets the job done.
 

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Nicely put man, great instructions.

I did the same in my car, what you should do is turn your amp down, and that way you dont get the burning smell some get from overpowering the amp/subs.

Keep your Bass control on -2 which still hits your subs nicely. Any questions, ask away, I know a good deal about the amp/sub hookup.

Lapis - What amp are you running?
 

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sweet man, glad it worked out for ya, im hoping to have my Dual 12" W3 JL's installed by the end of this week, or next week,
 

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Glad I could help. I think the Audiobahn subs are nice, some people don't like them, but, I'm running 2 10's an think they sound real good with Hifonics amp. Hoping to begin redoing mine in a few weeks so that everything is all nice an neat along with a custom enclosure. Anyways, glad everything worked out for you an it looks nice to me..
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Originally posted by Mazda6Stuff@Apr 11 2005, 06:41 PM
Nicely put man, great instructions.

I did the same in my car, what you should do is turn your amp down, and that way you dont get the burning smell some get from overpowering the amp/subs.

Keep your Bass control on -2 which still hits your subs nicely. Any questions, ask away, I know a good deal about the amp/sub hookup.

Lapis - What amp are you running?
[snapback]391447[/snapback]​
i have the amp turned down about half way and by bass setting on the headunit is 2 and it gives out a sweet deep bass fits in perfectly with the rest of the system.

The amp i have running is Crunch 2 channel 600 watts RMS i am not sure on the peak output
 

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Can I get some pics of the RCA splices? Eveything else I understand pretty well but splicing an RCA cable mystifies me. Haven't there been some issues when people mess with the shielding on those lines? I've given up on replacing my whole system because I know the dash kit will never come out and I did a custom job on my last car which was too much effort. But more bass is always good. Has anyone mounted a sub in the stock location with a tiny sealed box so it stays out of the way but still hits hard? One of those subs that only needs .6 cubic feet might be sweet. I think that's the way I'd go if I get around to it. And I want to thank you too for finally making this issue visually clear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Originally posted by vtusaf@Apr 12 2005, 04:03 PM
Can I get some pics of the RCA splices?  Eveything else I understand pretty well but splicing an RCA cable mystifies me.  Haven't there been some issues when people mess with the shielding on those lines?  I've given up on replacing my whole system because I know the dash kit will never come out and I did a custom job on my last car which was too much effort.  But more bass is always good.  Has anyone mounted a sub in the stock location with a tiny sealed box so it stays out of the way but still hits hard?  One of those subs that only needs .6 cubic feet might be sweet.  I think that's the way I'd go if I get around to it.  And I want to thank you too for finally making this issue visually clear.
[snapback]392009[/snapback]​

no problem i will take some pics tomarrow and post it up
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
here is a diagram that i made for the RCs splice. i thought this would propably help more than the pics. if you still have any questions let me know
 

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I think that you may have your diagram wrong. You want to be splicing the RCA cable to the small signal wires, and not the big black ground. Like this:



That large black ground is for the amp, not the signal. It'll probably still work that way, but I would make sure to tap back into the ground that goes to the head unit, instead of the one that most likely just goes directly to the chassis somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Originally posted by DaveRulz@Apr 14 2005, 07:02 AM
I think that you may have your diagram wrong. You want to be splicing the RCA cable to the small signal wires, and not the big black ground. Like this:



That large black ground is for the amp, not the signal. It'll probably still work that way, but I would make sure to tap back into the ground that goes to the head unit, instead of the one that most likely just goes directly to the chassis somewhere.
[snapback]392851[/snapback]​


the outer wiring of the RCA cable is the ground for the terminals. the center wire on the rca is the signal. on the stock wiring harness the brown and brown W/ red is only signal wires. there is no ground for them when you splice in the rca you need to ground the rca cable to get a proper signal to your amp
 

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I think you're confusing the amp ground with the negative signal in the RCA cable
 

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Originally posted by vtusaf@Apr 12 2005, 06:03 PM
Can I get some pics of the RCA splices?  Eveything else I understand pretty well but splicing an RCA cable mystifies me.  Haven't there been some issues when people mess with the shielding on those lines?  I've given up on replacing my whole system because I know the dash kit will never come out and I did a custom job on my last car which was too much effort.  But more bass is always good.  Has anyone mounted a sub in the stock location with a tiny sealed box so it stays out of the way but still hits hard?  One of those subs that only needs .6 cubic feet might be sweet.  I think that's the way I'd go if I get around to it.  And I want to thank you too for finally making this issue visually clear.
[snapback]392009[/snapback]​
I was thinkin of using the stock sub location with a 10" possibly in a custom fiberglass enclosure that stretched out to the sides. That way you could still get the volume without encroaching on the trunk interior. My big deal is getting that rear deck out without cracking it. :angry:
 
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