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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, I bought a 2021 Mazda 6 Signature back in February. First Mazda ever. As you all are aware, the car came with the Bose sound system. From a stock car standpoint it sounds pretty good. Modern audio systems have come a very long way in my opinion. From an audiophile standpoint, I still agree it sounds good. All frequencies seem to be equal and blend together nicely. However being an moderate level audiophile, I have a specific liking and never kept a stock speaker setup in my past vehicles. I already have the items needed to add subwoofers (a modest two 8” subs) in a sealed box in the trunk.

As for the other speakers, I plan on slowly replacing them all. Probably first starting with tweeters, then dash, then door then rear deck. I know I can find most of this information on my own by removing the speakers and testing them but I figured I’d see if anyone has done this already and can provide some easily gathered information. First would be the ohms of the speakers. Are they all the same? My guess would be 2 or 4 ohm but some manufacturers do some funky resistance. Second, any idea on the RMS wattage of each speaker. Or most importantly the rms wattage to that specific speakers channel of the amp. I think I found a diagram of the approximate size of each speaker so I won’t ask that.

Here’s the tougher question, any idea on crossover frequency cutoffs to the specific speaker? Is it an active crossover from within the amp or more from speaker limitations? In the past I’ve never had any luck asking the cars maker or the audio company being used for information. Any information would be helpful. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Also I feel like I should mention I do not intend to replace the amp. The wattage provided by the amp should be adequate for all the replaced speakers
 

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Youd be better off starting with an EQ. I thought my 3 sounded good till i started fiddling with an EQ, now it sounds really good, enough till i replace everything with vintage Kicker stuff. Id start with the Neutron music app. AFAIK its the only app that works with the EQ and BT so you dont have to run it through the AUX. However, the AUX will give you a hotter signal and therefore more headroom.

Edit: And turn off the Bose Centerpoint.

Does yours not have the suitcase sub in the spare tire?

As far as answering your question, they are a mix of 2 and 1 ohm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Youd be better off starting with an EQ. I thought my 3 sounded good till i started fiddling with an EQ, now it sounds really good, enough till i replace everything with vintage Kicker stuff. Id start with the Neutron music app. AFAIK its the only app that works with the EQ and BT so you dont have to run it through the AUX. However, the AUX will give you a hotter signal and therefore more headroom.

Edit: And turn off the Bose Centerpoint.

Does yours not have the suitcase sub in the spare tire?

As far as answering your question, they are a mix of 2 and 1 ohm.
No suitcase sub. Now it does have decent bass from the door speakers but I have an 18” subwoofer in my now secondary vehicle for the past 5 years so I’m accustomed to more than necessary bass. Hence adding the two 8’s. I do understand the use of an EQ however I don’t like using one in addition to the way the factory amp is EQ’d. The goal is to achieve the sound I want with having the bass and treble at 0, just by replacing speakers. Which I believe I can achieve. But now saying 1 and 2 are the ohms of most speakers, that adds a layer of difficulty with speaker selection. Without knowing the sensitivity of the original speakers, it’s hard to tell how less or more loud a 4ish ohm speaker would be in replacement.
 

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No suitcase sub. Now it does have decent bass from the door speakers but I have an 18” subwoofer in my now secondary vehicle for the past 5 years so I’m accustomed to more than necessary bass. Hence adding the two 8’s. I do understand the use of an EQ however I don’t like using one in addition to the way the factory amp is EQ’d. The goal is to achieve the sound I want with having the bass and treble at 0, just by replacing speakers. Which I believe I can achieve. But now saying 1 and 2 are the ohms of most speakers, that adds a layer of difficulty with speaker selection. Without knowing the sensitivity of the original speakers, it’s hard to tell how less or more loud a 4ish ohm speaker would be in replacement.
With the Centerpoint off, there is no processing that i can tell.
I was able to EQ Neutron with the car at 0 and then use that as a global EQ so i dont have to adjust the phone settings. I think im on a 9 band graphic. I said all that i said cause i know what would be needed to replace the Bose and you cant, while keeping the amp. You can use the app for a week without paying for it, as someone who has a strong background not only in car audio competitions, but also running massive PA systems with 64+ channels, this app is a SERIOUS app with the amount of plugins it has.

Or, you can do what im planning on doing shortly, to plumb in an actual 1/2 DIN EQ. Since the Bose HU is a clean 20-20 low level signal, you can just divert the input to the amp, route it through the EQ and back to the amp. This way i can always go back to stock (god forbid), but also just have the car wired for running right to my crossover and all i have to do is unplug the output RCA's to the Bose amp and plug in the crossover.

Aside from that, i dont know your background, but there is ZERO chance youll be able to just drop in speakers and achieve a non-EQ'd sound without an EQ. So, i dont know how you think thats possible, but im willing to discuss.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
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Aside from that, i dont know your background, but there is ZERO chance youll be able to just drop in speakers and achieve a non-EQ'd sound without an EQ. So, i dont know how you think thats possible, but im willing to discuss.
I certainly wouldn’t call it EQing without an EQ as the goal. Although I can see the correlation. Let me explain with an example that I did recently as to what I’m trying to achieve. My last vehicle was a Dodge Charger with the stock amplified Alpine group audio. It had no tweeters, just two 3.5” full ranges in the dash. Needless to say the highs and clarity were not there at all. Even with the stock EQ for highs turned all the way up. I dropped in a pair of full ranges that I’ve used in the past and like. BOOM, there or was. Highs and clarity with EQ set at 0. Just by doing research and selecting the right speakers, all I had to do was swap them and I had that I was looking for. Basically want to do that with the Mazda slowly.

As far as my background, it’s definitely not professional or extravagant. But I know enough to be dangerous. Complete audio replacements in all my vehicles and I build custom portable speaker systems such as one I most recently did that’s pictured.
 

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Well, in that respect, yes going from a pseudo wide band to a separate tweeter will net better sound. However, the 6 should have both in the dash on the Bose system, whereas my 3 only has a 2.5" wide band and no tweeter.

Might I suggest looking into the new Kicker KS 2.5" wide band? If i hadn't spent a decent chunk on vintage Resolution stuff over the last couple years, I'd go with them. You can get them separate, or with a 6x9 in a component set. Granted you'll lose some volume since they will show as 4ohm to the amp, but you might be able to deal with it.

I'd also change the rear door speakers so they don't over power the new ones and just ditch the rear deck speakers since they only run in a narrow slot of the free band and dont contribute to overall sound much at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, in that respect, yes going from a pseudo wide band to a separate tweeter will net better sound. However, the 6 should have both in the dash on the Bose system, whereas my 3 only has a 2.5" wide band and no tweeter.

Might I suggest looking into the new Kicker KS 2.5" wide band? If i hadn't spent a decent chunk on vintage Resolution stuff over the last couple years, I'd go with them. You can get them separate, or with a 6x9 in a component set. Granted you'll lose some volume since they will show as 4ohm to the amp, but you might be able to deal with it.

I'd also change the rear door speakers so they don't over power the new ones and just ditch the rear deck speakers since they only run in a narrow slot of the free band and dont contribute to overall sound much at all.
See that’s the tricky part, let’s say the dash speaker is 1 ohm and the speaker I would replace it with is 4 ohm. If they were the same sensitivity, it would be about a 6dB loss of volume from that location. However, if I replace it with a speaker that has much better sensitivity then less of that volume loss would happen, I believe.

But on a slightly separate note, let me ask you this. Have you ever noticed a slight crackling noise coming from the dash speakers? It’s most noticeable when changing talk radio stations on Siriusxm but I even notice it with regular audio. Bluetooth, wifi, wired connection, pandora, Spotify, doesn’t matter the source. I can’t tell if it’s the speakers (which is part of why I might want to replace them) or if it’s the sound processing within the amp or head unit.
 

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The only time i hear hiss or crackle is when my phone is fully charged cause i use AUX for my source. I dont listen to anything else.

Ive been looking around for a pre-amp module that i could use to boost the input to the amp to make it work a little harder. I wanna say i remember someone doing something similar to the suitcase sub, maybe @DrBoom? If we can find something, youd only need two for all 4 channel inputs to the amp and see where it goes.
 

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I never built anything resembling the suitcase sub, but what is your goal? Do you want to have higher volume just on one channel? Not sure the best way to do it, but it could be achieved cheaply with an adjustable gain pac type interface between the output and speaker. Then there are more expensive routes like an actual standalone eq.
 

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I never built anything resembling the suitcase sub, but what is your goal?
I didnt say you built a sub, i said you built a preamp for the input, so it puts out more power. Guess it wasnt you.

Do you want to have higher volume just on one channel? Not sure the best way to do it, but it could be achieved cheaply with an adjustable gain pac type interface between the output and speaker. Then there are more expensive routes like an actual standalone eq.
No, all 4, if you have 2 stereo preamps...
 
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