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Spikes to 15.5 & settles to 13lbs, I wonder if I have a bad gauge or is it normal?
 

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Spikes to 15.5 & settles to 13lbs, I wonder if I have a bad gauge or is it normal?
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Seems low based upon other people's comments about boost spikes in the upper teens...
Could the gauge you have normalize (cancel) out the spikes?

15.5 lbs sounds normal, though.
 

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Spikes to 15.5 & settles to 13lbs, I wonder if I have a bad gauge or is it normal?
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Seems really low, where did you tap into? I'm seeing like many others spikes @ 18-20 and a steady 15.6 with my Autometer Nexus gauge.
 

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Right on mazda's website it states the speed6 gets up to 15.6lbs of boost. So it seems pretty accurate to me. Its possible that some boost gauges are more sensative then others. Someone correct me if I am wrong
 

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Spikes to 15.5 & settles to 13lbs, I wonder if I have a bad gauge or is it normal?
[/b]

That's really low.

Make sure you have a good boost source for the guage.
 

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I hit spikes of up to 18-20psi then it drops the boost down to 13 so it can make it's max hp at 5700. I also have the autometer nexus gauges and a greddy rs bov.
 

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It really depends on where you tapped, please provide us with that info and we can make a better comment to your question.
 

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What altitude are you at?
 

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I have an Autometer mechanical boost gauge and it does show a steady 15.5 psi boost when on the pipe (below 5500 rpm) I don't think it is sensitive enough to show the 18 psi spikes, as I haven't seen any.

Could also be that I am running California 91 octane gas too, as a possibility. Anyone else want to share their readings with a mechical boost gauge running similar fuel? :blush:

[attachmentid=13974]


UPDATE: After driving the car to/from work for the past 3 days, the boost has seemed to finally come up to speed. ;)

Spiking at 18 psi
Settling at around 15 psi
Vacuum at 22inhg warm idle
:yesnod:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
http://www.42draftdesigns.com/product/sw/swb-114-379.htm

is this the gauge you installed? I assume you got the red LED, and if so how does the color look?

This is a gauge i might have to consider since its half as expensive as the omori gauge and i want a steering column mount. Now all i need is to find a suitable pod....
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Yes...... thats the gauge with the red led..... Looks great

I tapped into the same place as in these pix by onedeath....
onedeath's boost gauge instructions

I have seen spikes higher than 15.... probably 17 but definetly not 20.
I may dyno it next week & he'll be able to tell me what my boost really is. :yesnod:
 

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spiking at 20, settling at around 16, vacuum at 22inhg.

you'll have to wait about a week before your ECU learns the fuel trims again since u disconnected the battery. your boost should read normal after enough drive cycles have passed.
 

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I have an Autometer mechanical boost gauge and it does show a steady 15.5 psi boost when on the pipe (below 5500 rpm) I don't think it is sensitive enough to show the 18 psi spikes, as I haven't seen any.

Could also be that I am running California 91 octane gas too, as a possibility. Anyone else want to share their readings with a mechical boost gauge running similar fuel? :blush:

[attachmentid=13974]
[/b]
I'm running a VDO mechanical boost gauge on a steady diet of California 91 and I spike to 17-18psi than it sits on 15.5psi until about 5600rpms.
 

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Toybiz: I really like the placement of the gauge in the vent cluster. How difficult was it to put it in there? Does the whole center counsel have to come out? What size gauge did you use and did you have to fabricate some kind of mount to keep the gauge in there?
 

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Toybiz: I really like the placement of the gauge in the vent cluster. How difficult was it to put it in there? Does the whole center counsel have to come out? What size gauge did you use and did you have to fabricate some kind of mount to keep the gauge in there?
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Hey Matt,

Thanks, I too wanted a boost gauge but A-pillar pods were out of the question due to air bags, center dash storage compartment is occupied by the nav screen, the steering column mount ( :wavey: no offense to anyone who chose to mount theirs at this location) wasn't for me cause I wanted something that looked integrated rather than mounted onto. So the center vent was the only logical choice I could find with what is out there for our cars.

I contemplated many gauge choices, of course all the cool gauges are now 52mm/2 inch however that would have required a filler of some form as the vent opening is about 70mm. Thus I looked into the 61mm/2 5/8 inch versions. There weren't any relatively cost effective ones like the color changing ones or electroluminisent ones you find in the smaller sizes. You could go for a Defi one but it required a separate controller unit ($200+) then the gauge itself for another $180. So I decided on a mechanical one for cost and relatively ease of installation. ;)

So onto the installation. First you have to remove the center console / radio assy. Use this excellent guide here http://www.mazda6tech.com/index.php?option...36&Itemid=0

Then when you have the radio assy in hand, remove four screws that hold the vents to the radio panel. Once you have this part on hand the following will make more sense.

Separate the rear vent tube with the foam around the end from the back of the vent panel. This will require a little bit of prying with a small screw driver to get the tabs unsnapped.

Then you have to remove the front vent louvers from the panel. Looking from the back of the panel you will notice a small lip that is holding it to the panel. Using a small screw driver, again pry the lip inward so you can slip the louver free of the panel. Again, when you have the panel in hand it will make sense.

Once you have the center vent / louver separated, you will now be looking at the empty opening. now try to fit the boost gauge. My gauge was slightly larger than the opening by about 1/8". Wipe all the white lithum grease from the opening, there are small teeth so when you twist the louvers you feel slight detents, the grease is there to make the twisting smooth. I figured if I ever wanted to reverse the install, I could just order the panel holder and reuse all the other vent parts.

You will need to enlarge the opening to fit your gauge. I used a dremel and tube sander tip. Don't over do it, as I took a little bit then checked the fit. Took a little bit more then checked the fit. The plastic that the vent panel is made of is fairly soft, not hard brittle. So once I got to a size where the gauge fit with some forcing/twising, I stopped sanding.

I used a thin piece of double stick foam tape between the gauge body and the rim of the vent panel behind the opening. I stuffed some more pieces of foam in the other spaces to both make a tighter fit and to dampen any possible vibrations.

Now what do you do with the now missing a/c vent duct behind the gauge? I cut out a circular piece of 1/2" foam I had laying around to slightly larger than the now vacant opening and stuffed it to block the opening and secured it with a little caulking adhesive. This way cold / warm air doesn't blow onto the back of the gauge and cause either condensation in the gauge or fan blower air pressure loss due to a non controlled opening behind the gauge.

The rest is dependent on you particular gauge set up, if electric run the the wiring, if mechanical run the hoses. I tapped into the light next to the cigarette lighter. If you need a switched 12v source, the cigarette lighter is right there. For those of you who need/want a light power source that is controlled by the dimmer, look towards the hazzard light switch, right below the vent openings. Should be an easy tap.

== As always your individual mileage may vary and no claims of your success with this guide is guaranteed or warranted. But like all special projects, take your time and there should be very little that can go wrong. :D
 

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You can mount the gauges on the pillars. The airbags are NOT in the pillar.

When you pop off that little ABS cap on the pillar you will see a BOLT.

The side air bags drop from the headliner.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I may order this but it appears to raise the gauge higher than I would like it.........
EZ-Pod
 

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Has this problem sorted itself out or do you still only spike to just above 15psi? I am having the same problem, spikes to 15.5-17 psi then settles to about 13, with 25 in hg at idle. I have the omori boost guage and tapped into the vaccum hose that goes to the BOV.
 

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I also have the Stuart Warner gauge, and also tapped into the same place as everyone else (between bov and manifold). I'm using the tubbing kit from 42 draft designs. Color match is almost perfect.

Problem is; at 2k rmps i floor it in 3rd or any gear except first and it spikes to around 17 then drops to about 14.5 for a half second then drops down about 5 psi every half second after :irate: I understand that boost drops off at 4500 rmps but mines is probably at 5psi by that time.

When you all say that you spike to 17-20 then drop to 15 until 4500 rpms, how long does this take? Are these signs of a boost leak at high pressure?
 
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