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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am posting this for future searches as people have run into seemingly promising threads only to fine that an install thread got off track and the installation was never detailed. No replies necessary.

This is for MY VEI Gauge only, I mounted mine in the left most vent below the radio:

Vacuum source
1: Boost is tapped from the vac line coming off of the BOV. This line has some foam surround on it that will also need to be trimmed, use a T or a Y fitting. With the VEI gauge the hose needed for the gauge is a step smaller than the BOV Vac line (BOV line is 1/4 Gauge is 1/8th IIRC but don;t quote me, confirm it for yourself).
2: I simply drilled a hole in the fire wall next to the main wiring harness grommet, some people have stated they could get the vac line through the grommet, I could not.
3: I could not source a 1/4 straight through to 1/4 T fitting so i got a generic tapped brass block and bought 2 1/2 barbed fittings and 1 1/4 barbed fitting to build my own, if you have to resort to this, use Teflon tape. Don;t worry about routing the hose anywhere yet.

Electrical
1: Pop off the plastic surrounding your shifter, you will have to un screw your shift nob. This is held on by pop clips so pull evenly and it will come off, it wont break. This reveals 2 screws to remove the plastic around the stereo/acvs controls. Next remove the glove box, inside the now empty glove box compartment there is a 10mm screw on the side of the stereo, it is kind of far back, so don\'t drop it, remove it. Now you should be able to pull the plastic facing and stereo and vents out as a unit, 4 more screws separate the 3 vents from the rest of the unit.

2: Unplug the cigarette lighter harnesses, there are 2. One harness is the power the lighter when you push it is, it is hot anytime the ignition is in the on position, this will be your 12V ignition + and - source.
ALOT OF PEOPLE HAVE QUESTIONED WHAT COLORS THE WIRES ARE TO TAP FOR LIGHTS/12V CONSTANT, I DO NTO RECALL EXACTLY BUT IT SHOULD BE PRETTY OBVIOUS ONCE YOU ARE IN THERE WHICH SET IS GLOW RING AND WHICH IS CONSTANT BY THEIR LOCATION ON THE LIGHTER. If you look at the pic the lighter 12V constant connects at the bottom of the lights, the glow ring connects right but the surface or face of the lighter, problem solved!
Use 2 simple crimp in wire tap/intercept as seen here: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...rentPage=family
The blue piece is what you need. The other harness going to the lighter is a glow ring around the lighter that illuminates when running or headlights are on, this will be your 12V dimming, again use a crimp in connector. With the face removed it is easy to find your own way to you\'re your wires up to the vent area. This is also when you can route your hose into the area from behind the stereo using zip ties to secure it to other harnesses or wires as needed.

Fitment
1: I used an old DVD case (Constantine) to build my mount, it is sturdy enough to support the weight but soft and flimsy enough to be cut with a box knife or sanded quickly with a Dremel.
READ:
QUOTE
this is the most time consuming part of the whole ordeal, i had to do mine twice so be patient, going slow pays off in this section[/b]
Start by cutting a hole for the gauge itself, this needs to be snug, and you need to leave plenty of plastic on all sides, mine was a PITA to get the gauge into. I used a compass with a screw instead of a pencil to get the diameter of the gauge and then scored the plastic prior to cutting. Once I had it roughed in I used a Dremel with a sanding drum to fine tune it. I biffed the first one, the second took at least and hour to make, and 30 minutes of that was sanding with the Dremel, fitting, and re sanding.

2: Using the vent bracket you need to trim the outer edge of your gauge mount to fit in this bracket AND center your vent. I just eyed this, but I used the left mount as seen form the drivers seat. If you look at the back of the bracket you will see that the side vents require much more custom and specific trimming to git properly, the center vent has no close edge to interfere, again go slow. Finding out you took off too much and a gap is going to show will piss you off after getting your gauge hole perfect. Once this is done lightly sand and paint your mount the color of your choice. I used a flat black enamel in a spray can to paint, it is cheap and blends in very well.

3: You will notice that the DVD case is not thick enough to fit snug between the vent mount and the plastic radio fascia, use 3M double sided tape to get the thickness you need, it will also absorb any shock if you have a mechanical gauge and hopefully eliminate and bouncing of your needle from the car anyways.

Finishing it all off
Now all you have to do is hook up your connections, and sandwich your mount in place between the front radio cover and vane mount. It would probably be wise to duct tape over the vent inlet behind the vent you used so that your not blowing hot or cold air onto your vent, although I have not done that yet myself. In retrospect it occurs to me that heat defaults to the floor so that is not an issue and i have never heard of 50-60 degree temps hurting the performance of electronics, which is about as cold as my gauge gets without anything blocking the A/C, either way it is a quick fix, but if you forgot to block the air iinlet I would not freak!

Before putting it allll back together start the car and be sure you get -19 to -21 idle vacuum.

Thanks to Zeek (Hillauze on the boards here) this was his install that he kindly came over and walked me through, he is a perfectionist, and a great help as I was 2 weeks removed from knee surgery when we did this so he did most of the crawling under the seat for me, he is a car guy though so I don't think he minded at all.

PM any questions, I may have some numbers wrong, I may have forgotten about a couple of screws in removing the dash, PM me corrections and I will update. I will also post this in a thread by itself for later searches.

Pics Below, 2 dash shots just for reference, 1 shot of the line i tapped from the BOV, you can see my brass custom "T", and one shot of the wiring for the lighter, you can clearly see 2 harnesses.

EDIT: http://forum.mazda6club.com/index.php?showtopic=93224
Another good write up for the defrost gauge on the left side of the console.

EDIT: http://forum.mazda6club.com/index.php?showtopic=102732
Another write up, same location, lots more pics!
 

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great write-up. how about some pics?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I can get some pics but i am not removing the entier dash to give those pics :lol: but how do I post the pics if they are on my hard drive, i am computer stupid, i expect to point and click, anything more is over my head.
 

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nice post.. Adding pictures is done while posting/edit a post.. Just browse to them on your hard drive and upload them as an attachment.

1 question I do have, well ok, two questions..

First, I mounted my sensor under the hood, I did not run my vacuum line into the car. Anybody see a problem mounting the sensor under the hood?

Second, I just barely started looking at taking the interior apart to wire this baby up.. I noticed on either side of the console there are small covers that hide a small phillips head screw. Is it necessary to remove those screws first?

Thanks,

David
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You should not need to remove those 2 screws, your sensor means you have a different style gauge, my vac line runs directly to the back of the gauge, I guess you have a sensor that then sends a signal to your gauge, so you will have to experiment for yourself. i will try to upload pics tonight.
 

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I'll try to snap a few pics and do a write up on how to install a gauge in the defrost vent. Just need to charge up the digicam
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I would make it a separate thread, then we can link them to eachother, I did this not to garner attention but because I know how frustrating searches can be, hence my title is a conglomeration of common search terms.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Modifying the fuse panel is alot more likely to upset your dealer than splicing a few wires off a lighter. :shrug:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
BigBen help me out with a few questions over PM, which helped alot.

Thanks BigBen

This is how mine turned out.

[attachment=19682:DSCN0226.JPG] [attachment=19683:DSCN0228.JPG][/b]
Glad it turned out well, WTF is sticking out of your dash!?!?!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
How come mine dosent have that!?!?!
 

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Glad it turned out well, WTF is sticking out of your dash!?!?![/b]

It's a USB drive. LOL

First pic is daytime with lights off, w/camera flash. Second is with lights on, no camera flash.

I have the AudioLink - USB, I bought a panel mount USB and 3.5mm stereo plug cable and mounted them in tape player cover.

You can only use one of the connectors at a time so I mounted the main control unit under the front dash so that I can change the plugs very easily.

I find that I use the USB more than the 3.5mm stereo plug. Can store about 250 songs on a 2Gig drive at 256kbps. AudioLink unit works great.

Mounted some very small LEDS next to the cable so that it can be seen at night.
 
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