Mazda 6 Forums banner

1 - 20 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,242 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
OK, I've searched(a little...I'm a work)

I want a boost gauge and want to make sure I connect it in the best place and have the cleanest install

I just picked up the car on Monday a week ago.

A mechanical gauge is what I'll use. Where are you guys tapping into for the best reading in the engine compartment?

As for the electrical, what power source are you using?

I have seen some threads about boost gauges but mostly which ones people are using and installed pics

Please help...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
262 Posts
As for source the line leading into the BPV/BOV.
I replaced it with a harder fuel style reinforced hose since the stock rubber is extremely pliable causing expanding and contracting. The replacement of 1/4" fuel hose cost 1$ from lowes.

I'm using one of these now:


Instead of the infamous TEE I used a Y because I believe the gauges performance will increase using a Y instead of a T.

I have yet to find a Y spliter to go 1/4 1/4 and a smaller size with the 2 1/4 inlets being inline. So I went with a a vacuum adapter of 1/8 to 1/4 and used a hard nylon line since a normal rubber vac line would collapse in the adapter when zip tied. I actually got small rubber vac line to go over the nylon hardline since the white nylon hardline doesn't match the bay.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,067 Posts
The T vs. Y logic wont make a difference, your not flowing any air just changes in pressure, if there was air flow your logic would hold true, that being said the T and the Y will get the job done just fine!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
154 Posts
I like to always install a boost gauge as close to the intake as I can. I did not test these cars, but on a diesel truck you can have a 2-3 lb boost drop from turbo outlet to intake manifold.....lost going thru the intercooler and tubing. So, when I did my AEM True-Boost I drilled right before the throttle body and put a 1/8"-27 NPT fitting in there.....an inch before the intake.

The factory line is coming off of the intake runner on number 3, and goes to the blow off valve. I had already cut into this with a "T" to go to the alcohol system for boost referance. I did not want a string of goofy looking "T" fittings.

I will most likely tap another fitting into the intake tube before the Throttle Body for the alcohol system when I reinstall it all...it looks much better than those fugly white plastic "T" deals....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,242 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I like to always install a boost gauge as close to the intake as I can. I did not test these cars, but on a diesel truck you can have a 2-3 lb boost drop from turbo outlet to intake manifold.....lost going thru the intercooler and tubing. So, when I did my AEM True-Boost I drilled right before the throttle body and put a 1/8"-27 NPT fitting in there.....an inch before the intake.

The factory line is coming off of the intake runner on number 3, and goes to the blow off valve. I had already cut into this with a "T" to go to the alcohol system for boost referance. I did not want a string of goofy looking "T" fittings.

I will most likely tap another fitting into the intake tube before the Throttle Body for the alcohol system when I reinstall it all...it looks much better than those fugly white plastic "T" deals....
[/b]

great info and thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
154 Posts
Here is a few pictures of me adding the fiitting......
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
262 Posts
The T vs. Y logic wont make a difference, your not flowing any air just changes in pressure, if there was air flow your logic would hold true, that being said the T and the Y will get the job done just fine!
[/b]

Actually theres a diff reason why i went with a Y. Yes I understand the pressure change but pressure builds at the terminating point back to the source. Thus there's the infinitely small time difference by allowing boosted air direct access to the gauge to build pressure. And for no extra cost if I can be as optimal as possible thats a plus.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
273 Posts
Actually theres a diff reason why i went with a Y. Yes I understand the pressure change but pressure builds at the terminating point back to the source. Thus there's the infinitely small time difference by allowing boosted air direct access to the gauge to build pressure. And for no extra cost if I can be as optimal as possible thats a plus.
[/b]
There is bi-directional air flow passing back and forth across the T/Y connector but it never really goes anywhere. You're right by saying there is a infinitely small time difference, but the Y connector is working against you (in an infinitely small way).

By reducing the restrictive flow (using the Y connector) you're allowing a quicker boost pressure change (but only to the gauge) causing the gauge needle to bounce more. By using a T connector the slight restrictive flow causes a buffer slowing the rate of needle change (smoothing it out) like a capacitor in electronics.

Really the difference is so slight I wouldn't worry about it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
262 Posts
By reducing the restrictive flow (using the Y connector) you're allowing a quicker boost pressure change (but only to the gauge) causing the gauge needle to bounce more. By using a T connector the slight restrictive flow causes a buffer slowing the rate of needle change (smoothing it out) like a capacitor in electronics
[/b]

That's why I got the vei here's a quote from Neil from vEI regarding the odd actions of manual boost gauges when +15 psi

we have software IIR filtering in the gauge, so it intelligently removes spikes that it determines to be due to noise[/b]
So I doubt this will be an issue. I was just trying to think optimally...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
154 Posts
Holly crap bat man! My engines gonna blow sky-high now! I used a screwed in nipple...and we all know the effect that has on reading boost. That little argument above is like watching two women argue....

Hey, there is a half dozen over there....
No, there is not. There are only 6.
No, I tell you....there is a half dozen!
There cant be ahalf dozen.....there is plainly six! Let me recite to you the works of Joe-Blow where he describes the difference between 6 and a half dozen.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
273 Posts
Holly crap bat man! My engines gonna blow sky-high now! I used a screwed in nipple...and we all know the effect that has on reading boost. That little argument above is like watching two women argue....

Hey, there is a half dozen over there....
No, there is not. There are only 6.
No, I tell you....there is a half dozen!
There cant be ahalf dozen.....there is plainly six! Let me recite to you the works of Joe-Blow where he describes the difference between 6 and a half dozen.
[/b]
No I think you completely misunderstood my point. What you're suggesting is that women are stupid and do not understand the difference between two equal terms. There is absolutely no difference between 6 and half a dozen, the point however slight was that there really is a difference between a T and Y connector. I was just pointing out that his reason for choosing the Y connector was actually slightly counter-productive.

So by comparing me to a woman, you're really saying that all women have an engineering degree and a high attention to detail. :nana:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,022 Posts
Holly crap bat man! My engines gonna blow sky-high now! I used a screwed in nipple...and we all know the effect that has on reading boost. That little argument above is like watching two women argue....

Hey, there is a half dozen over there....
No, there is not. There are only 6.
No, I tell you....there is a half dozen!
There cant be ahalf dozen.....there is plainly six! Let me recite to you the works of Joe-Blow where he describes the difference between 6 and a half dozen.
[/b]
Mr. Discount Parts :)

Did you get my last PM?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
154 Posts
Yes sir, I got the PM and I await details about time. Adam was off today, so I cant get a real feel for it until tomorow. I'll get back to you then!

I find a T works as well as a Y or a any other little plastic or metel thing. I just found the fat that you guys actually argued about that to be about the silliest thing I ever saw! I actually went to a couple sites and had other guys coming over to read that and go back to the other site to LOL over it.......
You got to have a sense of humor.....

That there right there is funny.....I dont care who you are!

A Picture of our old Ford back in the days that it was street legal and pulling as North Western PA state champion in the open street legal class. It was just under 600 HP.

And a picture of the Green-Machine.......my little Excursion. Some day Im going to lift this thing and really make it big!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,067 Posts
I will state as FACT that no human can see the difference between a T and Y connector, I ONLY posted what I did so that some new guy didnt wait 4 weeks for a Y instead of T connector because pep boys was out of Y connecters to do his instal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,067 Posts
OK question time...

1: What ID is out stock vac line? 1/4?

2: What ID is the Vac line that the guage takes?

3: Where did you tap for the dimming feature?

4: Thanks a ton guys!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
188 Posts
Ok I not a thread stealer by doing a comparo on T's Y's P's or F's but I can give you alittle help with where and how.

Just PM me so we dont have a billion people stating how their way is so much better. I have tried 2 different ways and i get the est results out of one.

I used a semi Y type of connector not like the one shown but alittle more spread out.

I have no engineering degree and I am not a woman. But i do work under the hood of my car alot and tinker. PM me if you want pictures and instructions
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
154 Posts
Honestly...the Y vs T subject is such a joke.....it embarrasses me that you even believe yourself on that one. A static pressure/vac line with an open orifice....orient that orriface any way you want.....the pressure within milliseconds will stbilize across the entire area. My god....do you guys actually believe all the crap you read on the internet.

I used to work for a PC manufacturing company and he would tell folks often that thier PC failed because of a very common error....

The ID 10 T error.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
273 Posts
Honestly...the Y vs T subject is such a joke.....it embarrasses me that you even believe yourself on that one. A static pressure/vac line with an open orifice....orient that orriface any way you want.....the pressure within milliseconds will stbilize across the entire area. My god....do you guys actually believe all the crap you read on the internet.

I used to work for a PC manufacturing company and he would tell folks often that thier PC failed because of a very common error....

The ID 10 T error.
[/b]
hahaha ID 10 T!!

I like, "PEBKAC", Problem Exists Between Keyboard And Chair!
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
Top