Mazda 6 Forums banner

Blackened Front Wheels

3K views 18 replies 17 participants last post by  ashutoshsm 
#1 ·
Just got my new 6 s with about 300+ miles on it now. I found the front wheels to be significantly blackened by engine smoke and what nots. Does anyone has similar experiences, coz this is a pain in the ass when you want to keep your wheel shiny new..
 
#2 ·
Replying to Topic 'Blackened Front Wheels'

QUOTE
Originally posted by daphantomica


            Just got my new 6 s with about 300+ miles on it now. I found the front wheels to be significantly blackened by engine smoke and what nots. Does anyone has similar experiences, coz this is a pain in the ass when you want to keep your wheel shiny new..[/b]
That's break dust. Everbody has that problem, the only advice I can give is to let it be. It gets better over time.
 
#5 ·
Replying to Topic 'Blackened Front Wheels'

QUOTE
Originally posted by Steve 6er


            It's been suggested to change the brake pads. There are ones on the market that doesn't leave any dust.[/b]
It was my understanding that the dustless brake pads out there actually wear down your rotors much quicker. If that's the case, isn't it just cheaper to wash your wheels once a week rather than turn or replace your rotors more frequently?
 
#8 ·
Replying to Topic 'Blackened Front Wheels'

QUOTE
Originally posted by kyler13


            QUOTE
Originally posted by Steve 6er


            It's been suggested to change the brake pads. There are ones on the market that doesn't leave any dust.[/b]
It was my understanding that the dustless brake pads out there actually wear down your rotors much quicker. If that's the case, isn't it just cheaper to wash your wheels once a week rather than turn or replace your rotors more frequently?

[/b][/quote]

Yeah the concern with dustless brake pads is that if they are harder, they will wear your rotors.
 
#9 ·
Reading Topic: Blackened Front Wheels

Use some rim wax, or other anti brake dust products. Usually after a fresh application, for the next week or so you can just rinse the wheels off, instead of soaping them down.

That at least was my solution...that and cleaning them almost daily, so it didn't get built up (thus taking longer to remove).

Only take a few minutes at the end of the day to take the bugs off and clean the rims :).
 
#10 ·
Reading Topic: Blackened Front Wheels

I used a treatment on my rims that puts a lotus-effect on them. Dust won't stick on them like before and water washes it off. You can even simply wipe it away with a towel.
 
#14 ·
Replying to Topic 'Blackened Front Wheels'

yep....if you get the brake dust on them that fuses from heat...and you find yourself sweating like hell to try and get it off.....use this: Mothers Mag & Aluminum cleaner....then wax em. makes em look good as new until you have to do it all over again a week or two later :D
 
#17 ·
Reading Topic: Reading Topic: Blackened Front Wheels

Just don't drive it and park it for five years. The cobwebs will be easier to take off and you won't have to worry about nicks in the front end. Wax is a good protectant but you will have to deal with static electricity which will attract dust. It will just be easier to wipe off.
 
#18 ·
Reading Topic: Reading Topic: Blackened Front Wheels

QUOTE
Originally posted by kyler13


            QUOTE
Originally posted by Steve 6er


            It's been suggested to change the brake pads. There are ones on the market that doesn't leave any dust.[/b]
It was my understanding that the dustless brake pads out there actually wear down your rotors much quicker. If that's the case, isn't it just cheaper to wash your wheels once a week rather than turn or replace your rotors more frequently?

[/b][/quote]

To my knowledge, the increase in rotor wear really isn't that significant for the non-autocrossing driver. Personally, I'd consider the benefit of way less brake dust to be worth any penalty in disc wear.

Plus... From what I've heard from mechanic friends, it's becoming less and less common to re-surface rotors, because of how prone they are to warping after that process. So the question of "how much meat is left on the disc" isn't much of an issue.

Nowadays, most mechanics are recommending one of two paths when replacing brake pads: (1) Put the pads in and don't remove the rotors (in other words, no re-surfacing or "turning" -- but perhaps a light sanding to remove glazing). (2) Put brand new rotors on.

Although replacing the rotors is more expensive, there is the benefit of knowing that you will have perfect braking (assuming the calipers and their guide pins are functioning properly). Plus, for the D.I.Y. mechanic, there is the convenience factor of not having to take the rotors to a machine shop for re-surfacing, then wait for them to do the machining, and then putting them back on. You can just take the old ones off and slap the new ones on. Takes very little additional time.

The one issue, however, is that factory brake rotors may be expensive, and it will likely take a while for aftermarket discs to become available for the 6. (Unless the car uses existing Mazda or Ford rotors. But that's not so likely since this is the first car in the lineup with the double wishbone suspensions front and rear.)
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top