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QUOTE (Spingjp Mazda 6 @ Oct 1 2009, 08:47 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1605689
i did a search and cant seem to stumble across the HOW To on the big 3 electrial upgrade???[/b]
well, the easy two are the battery to ground and engine block to ground lines. These are typically on lugs or terminals. The how to involves finding both these lines under the hood and inspecting the termination. You duplicate this termination so your addition can slip right in.

You can remove the OEM lines or double up. Sometimes it makes no sense to remove the OEM lines because they are not easily removable.

I won't comment on the alternator to positive terminal lines because frequently they pass through a controller to monitor performance, and folks will frequently bypass these circuits. Not a good idea! So make sure any "upgrades" you add do not bypass existing OEM systems.

good luck!
 

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QUOTE (Spingjp Mazda 6 @ Oct 1 2009, 08:47 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1605689
i did a search and cant seem to stumble across the HOW To on the big 3 electrial upgrade???[/b]
well, the easy two are the battery to ground and engine block to ground lines. These are typically on lugs or terminals. The how to involves finding both these lines under the hood and inspecting the termination. You duplicate this termination so your addition can slip right in.

You can remove the OEM lines or double up. Sometimes it makes no sense to remove the OEM lines because they are not easily removable.

I won't comment on the alternator to positive terminal lines because frequently they pass through a controller to monitor performance, and folks will frequently bypass these circuits. Not a good idea! So make sure any "upgrades" you add do not bypass existing OEM systems.

good luck!
Any recommendations on how to fully apply a big 3 upgrade? Skipping the alternator to battery connection is literally the biggest most important connection since thats the recharging line that breaths fresh electricity to the battery. I was looking around for good spots to get to on the Mazda 6 cylinder but everywhere I look yields no results. Has anyone actually did a big 3 to their v6 Mazda? Dead post but I’d rather keep this one going then start a new one in sakes anyone else needs to know.
 

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Any recommendations on how to fully apply a big 3 upgrade? Skipping the alternator to battery connection is literally the biggest most important connection since thats the recharging line that breaths fresh electricity to the battery. I was looking around for good spots to get to on the Mazda 6 cylinder but everywhere I look yields no results. Has anyone actually did a big 3 to their v6 Mazda? Dead post but I’d rather keep this one going then start a new one in sakes anyone else needs to know.
I currently do and have more than the 3. I am on vacation at the moment but when I get back I will post pics.

My advice on the big wire upgrades are:

1) Do NOT remove any factory OEM wires. We simply want to add more.

2) One HAS to add a wire directly to the back of the Alt to the battery (or busbar in my case). What was said here about it being one of the most important is very much true. To only upsize the ground side of things without upsizing the positive wouldn't really help.

3) An often looked ground on the big "3" is adding a ground directly to the alt. This can be done on the V6 from the top if you use a ratchet wrench. It's hard to see but you can get to the very top mounting bolt behind the intake manifold. The only reason I know where is because I had to change the Alt earlier this year.

I'll try to get some pics soon but it may be next weekend before I can get a chance to do it.
 

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Any recommendations on how to fully apply a big 3 upgrade? Skipping the alternator to battery connection is literally the biggest most important connection since thats the recharging line that breaths fresh electricity to the battery. I was looking around for good spots to get to on the Mazda 6 cylinder but everywhere I look yields no results. Has anyone actually did a big 3 to their v6 Mazda? Dead post but I’d rather keep this one going then start a new one in sakes anyone else needs to know.
I currently do and have more than the 3. I am on vacation at the moment but when I get back I will post pics.

My advice on the big wire upgrades are:

1) Do NOT remove any factory OEM wires. We simply want to add more.

2) One HAS to add a wire directly to the back of the Alt to the battery (or busbar in my case). What was said here about it being one of the most important is very much true. To only upsize the ground side of things without upsizing the positive wouldn't really help.

3) An often looked ground on the big "3" is adding a ground directly to the alt. This can be done on the V6 from the top if you use a ratchet wrench. It's hard to see but you can get to the very top mounting bolt behind the intake manifold. The only reason I know where is because I had to change the Alt earlier this year.

I'll try to get some pics soon but it may be next weekend before I can get a chance to do it.
Sounds good thank you for your reply. After crunching the numbers I’m going to need a high output alternator but everywhere I look there isn’t a solution. I’ve called alternator shops in Vegas and none called back in response to have it rebuilt. I’m running a Kicker class D 1200.1 at 2500w MAX. Usually pushing 600w per sub (2 subs), I’m not counting when I put in a separate amp to replace the Bose and door speakers. I went to audio express and they wouldn’t do a big three until I get a better alternator. Where do you all get your high output alts????
 

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Sounds good thank you for your reply. After crunching the numbers I’m going to need a high output alternator but everywhere I look there isn’t a solution. I’ve called alternator shops in Vegas and none called back in response to have it rebuilt. I’m running a Kicker class D 1200.1 at 2500w MAX. Usually pushing 600w per sub (2 subs), I’m not counting when I put in a separate amp to replace the Bose and door speakers. I went to audio express and they wouldn’t do a big three until I get a better alternator. Where do you all get your high output alts????
I don't have a high output alt at this time. I'm currently running a red top in the trunk with the upgraded wires. I haven't seen a ho alt for our cars but have for the fusion v6. I think you will be fine with the stock alt and extra wiring. If you do get some light fade (I did) you can upgrade to HID bulbs and it will help with the lights flickering. When you do you grounds, make sure it's to bare metal and spay clear coat over the ground after it's tight. Some people skip this step and it can cause issues within the audio system.

Other options are running a 2nd battery or find a true car audio cap (these look like motorcycle batteries). These can help with bass demands. Most cylinder type of caps are made with mostly fillers unless it's form a reputable company.

I haven't forgotten about the pics. I'll get them this weekend. My wife has been having to drive the Mazda back and forth to work due to her bug having shifting issues. By the time she gets home the car is supper hot and to get shots of some of the places for the upgrade I'll have to be under and all over the engine compartment.
 

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DJ Raydiate said:
I don't have a high output alt at this time. I'm currently running a red top in the trunk with the upgraded wires. I haven't seen a ho alt for our cars but have for the fusion v6. I think you will be fine with the stock alt and extra wiring. If you do get some light fade (I did) you can upgrade to HID bulbs and it will help with the lights flickering. When you do you grounds, make sure it's to bare metal and spay clear coat over the ground after it's tight. Some people skip this step and it can cause issues within the audio system.

Other options are running a 2nd battery or find a true car audio cap (these look like motorcycle batteries). These can help with bass demands. Most cylinder type of caps are made with mostly fillers unless it's form a reputable company.

I haven't forgotten about the pics. I'll get them this weekend. My wife has been having to drive the Mazda back and forth to work due to her bug having shifting issues. By the time she gets home the car is supper hot and to get shots of some of the places for the upgrade I'll have to be under and all over the engine compartment.
After calling a few places I found a supplier that could build an alternator, it’s not a super high output but it’s going to be more amps than stock. The company name is Nation Starter and Alternator it’ll be 300$ for a 160amp (stock is 110) with free delivery. The big three is a must have and I’m starting to get annoyed with having my bass constantly drop out and park my car with 12.1 - 12.5 volts(if I charge a little before I go inside). No worries about the images, when ever you have a chance. I changed to LED headlights but the dimming is coming from the interior lights and tail lights. Thank you for the tips, never thought about clear coat on the grounds
 

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You could try PowerBastards, I know they used to have 250A available for the 4 cylinders.


Or you could trim the engine compartment to fit this behemoth in
 

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I had thought of running a 2nd alt from the water pump side of things but didn't want to add the strain on the Cam. Another thing I had talked about in my build thread was getting rid of the mechanical power steering pump to open up a spot on that side of the engine. IIRC from reading around the forum, the stock alt should be fine with the wire upgrades and at least a AGM battery.
 

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You could try PowerBastards, I know they used to have 250A available for the 4 cylinders.


Or you could trim the engine compartment to fit this behemoth in
I called and apparently it’s unlisted but they have a 220 for the 3.0 which is fantastic. I need to call back on Monday because the guy wasn’t in the office but it’s looking good. I will be able to do after market door speakers and run the subs without electrical issues if they really have it.


I had thought of running a 2nd alt from the water pump side of things but didn't want to add the strain on the Cam. Another thing I had talked about in my build thread was getting rid of the mechanical power steering pump to open up a spot on that side of the engine. IIRC from reading around the forum, the stock alt should be fine with the wire upgrades and at least a AGM battery.
I’m going to add an XS power battery to replace my Duralast gold, I’d like to keep the stuff under the hood but if worse comes to worse removing components might be the option. The stock alt may not be able to keep up if I’m running 2k wattage just for the audio system. Would be interesting to see and test after a big three but from the math the stock alternator only puts 1200watts (110*12).
I was watching videos on how to change the alternator and running a big three sounds like a pain in the butthole because of the genius location of the alt. Still would be worth it since audio express charges 350$ for upgrade. Anything with the charging system being routed through a computer? The post way above said something about it and even one alt shop said that’s another reason why they don’t do high output and there is a way to bypass but it’ll throw a check engine light.
 
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