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Discussion Starter #1
I'd like to get a thread started for for calibration on this unit for the Speed6. I recently picked one of these up, played around with it for a bit. But the unit needs to be setup properly to give better times and readings.

If you have this unit, or want to contribute in some way please feel free to post. I'll list the information required to program the unit below. And I'd like to see what numbers other speed6 owners are using... or "would" use if they had the unit.

--------- Calibration requirements -------------

1) Vehicle Weight

GVWR is the sum of Curb Weight and Payload (payload is max weight vehicle is designed to carry). We need and want the Curb Weight only, and I'm pretty sure the factory sticker is incorrect if it even lists curb weight. For example, when I rolled up onto a truck scale I remember seeing somewhere around 3880 several months ago. I have a little extra weight in the vehicle from stereo equipment, but that shouldn't be a HUGE change from other stock owners.

2) Horsepower Speed MIN and MAX

This is the speed range for HP calculations and the computer will provide an average HP over these two ranges. Default is 30 to 60 MPH. If you can think of a reason to change this and use different ranges please post why.

3) Drivetrain Loss

All speed6 owners should know and love this one! How much power we lose from our awsome AWD SETUP! A few examples below...
2 wheel drive with manual transmission = .15
2 wheeld rive with automatic transmission = .20
4 wheel drive with manual transmission = .20
3 wheeld rivew ith automatic transmission = .25

These numbers are averages from the book. Please post what you KNOW or "think" you know our vehicle does. I know that the speed6 is mostly FWD, so our power loss might be less than that of an STI or EVO who's AWD setups are probably a bit better and more "active" than ours. But I don't know. Post ideas either way.

4) Rolling Resistance

This one is simple... characteristic of the vehicle's tires. "Most" passenger vehicles, the default of .013 is the proper choice. If you know or think differently please post.

5) Aerodynamic Drag (CDA)

There is a huge long, drawn out description of this and how to calculate it, I will summerize as best as possible. It lists 3 ways to find it.

a) Manufacturer's spec or manual / research.
b) Estimate CDA based on listing of several other vehicles.
Honda Insight = 5.1 CDA
Corvette C5 = 6.2 CDA
Porsche 911 = 6.2 CDA
Audi S4 = 6.8 CDA
Honda Civic = 7.1 CDA
Minivan or SUV = 12.0 CDA
Pickup or Van = 15.8 CDA

c) Coastdown test

On a flat road, on a day with no wind, accelerate to slightly above 60 MPH.
Put your car in neutral.
Measure the time it takes for your car to decelerate from exactly 60 MPH to exactly 50 MPH
Perform this test at least three times in each direction and you should get similar numbers, take the average

There is a big chart I dont' feel like typing out, however for those who do this test, and provide a number to me, I will be more than happy to do the math and give you the real CDA for you to add in your post.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Thanks again for everyone who wants to help out. I think that if we can get enough people to respond, and average out all the ideas and numbers. We'll get some pretty damn good results outta the Vector.
 

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I picked up an FX2 off eBay. I should have it in 7-10 days. I'll be a newb at it so probably won't have much to contribute, but would appreciate any info others can provide. Thanks for starting this thread!
 

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Actually, AFAIK, all these variables are used only for the HP estimation, but you may be able to get that to be more accurate with these variables.

In the manual it says: "Note: This setup is optional, and is NOT necessary for accurate Timed Runs or G-Meter function."

The times the unit gives are not based on user variables, they are based only on acceleration force and time (which are measured by the unit), so they will always be accurate as long as the road you are using it on is flat and consistent.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah, but I can go to the local tracks... and have them tell me what my 0-60.. 0-100... 1/4... and such times are... got this unit so a) i can test my 1/4 anytime I want... and practice... b) check my estimated HP....

Its not so easy to drive down to local mustang dyno shop and spend 100's to get your car tested... Maybe for some people, but local shops i've seen that have the equipment charge a huge fee... Sometimes they have "dyno days" where its really cheap, but you wait in line for hours... and get 1-2 attempts.. and done... So you get what you pay for even on cheap days...

Anyone who buys this unit for the 1/4 time only is wasting their money.. 40 bucks you can go to any local track.. and get your times... In fact you could visit on average lets say 5-6 tracks for the price of this unit...

I personally got it for the THAT feature along with the HP estimation... I'd really like to see how much HP i'm pulling on average... and how much it changes with different mods and such... my Downpipe for example...
 

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I wasn't saying this was a bad post, it's actually a good idea. I just wanted to make sure you knew that these settings won't affect your times since you did say "But the unit needs to be setup properly to give better times and readings."

I agree with you on how much dynos cost, but there aren't tracks everywhere either.

Personally, I'll take a 1/4m time over a HP number any day, but to each his own.
 

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Keep in mind that there are many variables from dyno to dyno, even if they are the same brand and model. So even comparing hp figures from one dyno to the next is not always accurate.
Determining gains is easier though. If you calibrate the FX2 to the best of your ability, and run a baseline, all the mods you make can be tracked from that baseline. It will be easy, and fairly accurate, to determine exact hp gains from eack mod.
Just a thought.
Let us know how it works out, thinking about getting one myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yup.. yup.. and yup.... But I started this thread for the ppl who have, or plan on getting the Vector computer... And want to run the same numbers / settings other speed6 owners are using... so that when they see a HP measurement... they know that its going to be based off the same settings as other speed6 owners.... Bla bla bla...

I hope we can get back on topic and get some peeps out there posting info on the 5 settings.
 

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I've owned a Belltronics Vector Pro GX2 (aka FX2) for 3 years, and have run it at the track more than 22 times.

1. Vehicle weight... I have the Sport so I use 3775. (3580+me)
2. MPH Min / Max ... 36-55. It is measuring 2nd gear... I consistently register peak hp at 49/50mph.
3. Driving Train loss... 0 ... I want wheel hp.
4. Rollng Res... default.
5. CDA... Could you tell me where you got the 23 sqr feet, but I use 7.30 because the is higher and wider than a civic at 7.100. I actually looked at my Neon's numbers, then measursed the % difference in car height / width / ride height and used this as an estimated calculation. If someone has Car and Driver magazine, they should have posted the CdA of the speed 6 when they tested it.


Now for the 1/4 mile stuff.
  • There is only one setting... Rollout distance. 12" - 0", I use 10" in my Neon, I use 6" on the spd6, but I think 2" is more appropriate for the speed6.
  • Placement on the windshield makes a huge difference to the 1/4 miles. I found this out last night at the track. My first three runs were 0.30 quicker on the GX2 than the track with the unit placed in the center of the windshield. I had to move the unit up almost behind the mirror and it started registering 0.05-0.15s quicker. Hence the 2" rollout change. I will be posting the runs in dyno/track section soon.
  • Calibration of even ground is also essential. Last time at the track I was being quick staged and was hitting the set button while the car was still rolling into the stage lights. I ran a [email protected] on the GX2 while running an actual 14.2. Most of the time it is only 0.50s faster when it isn't set correctly, which is still wrong.
 

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You should PM P5Freek to get his input also as he has been running his at the track quite a bit and he has found his to be pretty accurate and consistent with the timing equipment at the track.

R
 

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Too my knowledge P5Freek has never tested his against a track...

Also keep in mind his times who a sub 5 second 0-60.... i won't comment on that other than "not possible"...
 

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I've owned a Belltronics Vector Pro GX2 (aka FX2) for 3 years, and have run it at the track more than 22 times.

1. Vehicle weight... I have the Sport so I use 3775. (3580+me)
2. MPH Min / Max ... 36-55. It is measuring 2nd gear... I consistently register peak hp at 49/50mph.
3. Driving Train loss... 0 ... I want wheel hp.
4. Rollng Res... default.
5. CDA... Could you tell me where you got the 23 sqr feet, but I use 7.30 because the is higher and wider than a civic at 7.100. I actually looked at my Neon's numbers, then measursed the % difference in car height / width / ride height and used this as an estimated calculation. If someone has Car and Driver magazine, they should have posted the CdA of the speed 6 when they tested it.
Now for the 1/4 mile stuff.
  • There is only one setting... Rollout distance. 12" - 0", I use 10" in my Neon, I use 6" on the spd6, but I think 2" is more appropriate for the speed6.
  • Placement on the windshield makes a huge difference to the 1/4 miles. I found this out last night at the track. My first three runs were 0.30 quicker on the GX2 than the track with the unit placed in the center of the windshield. I had to move the unit up almost behind the mirror and it started registering 0.05-0.15s quicker. Hence the 2" rollout change. I will be posting the runs in dyno/track section soon.
  • Calibration of even ground is also essential. Last time at the track I was being quick staged and was hitting the set button while the car was still rolling into the stage lights. I ran a [email protected] on the GX2 while running an actual 14.2. Most of the time it is only 0.50s faster when it isn't set correctly, which is still wrong.
[/b]


99 RT Eh,



You are right the Civic would definetly have less frontal area than the Speed, but the Speeds Coefficient of Drag (.31) is much lower than the Civics (.34) so the frontal area is the key number in the equation, so far, I've been unable to find it. But as a guesstimate I would say it's (the CDA) probably between the Audi S4 and the Civic (Box) because of it's much lower CD. I tried to measure it and came up with a Frontal Area of 22.21 Sq.Ft. X .31 CD = 6.889 CDA. (Coefficient of Drag/Frontal Area).

Unless your deep staging the car, why would you use 6" or 2". It doesn't make any sense to deep stage because you just increase your chances of a red light. The timer doesn't start until your tire rolls completely out of the beam, and the light circuit is re-connected, so to speak. The staging lights beam, is 1-9/16" above the ground, so if you measure the tire dimension, front to back at that height, you will know how much tire has to roll thru the beam before the timer starts. I think the default is 12" and thats just about right for our cars according to my calculations, but anywhere around 10" to 12" is reasonable. Thats why serious drag racers use tall tires on front of the car.......actually tall and skinny, the skinny gives you less roll resistance for higher MPH and the taller the tire, the farther your car can go without triggering the timer............hence a faster time, higher top speed and you can launch earlier, without red lighting for a great hole shot, on your challenger.

As far as the placement of the FX2, I wasn't sure so I put it right under my transponder which is pretty well hidden behind the mirror. I put it in the highest location I could, considering I also have the transponder there, the top of the FX2 is hidden by the mirror but from the top of the screen down, is visable. The only reason I put it there was, because I didn't want anything in the middle of the windshield, as a distraction.

Regards,

Rocket 6 :drive:
 

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Too my knowledge P5Freek has never tested his against a track...

Also keep in mind his times who a sub 5 second 0-60.... i won't comment on that other than "not possible"...
[/b]
Thanks for the clarification W.

R
 

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Too my knowledge P5Freek has never tested his against a track...

Also keep in mind his times who a sub 5 second 0-60.... i won't comment on that other than "not possible"...
[/b]

Wiggum,

An all wheel drive vehicle, with the torque this engine puts out, can easily produce sub 5 second 0 to 60 MPH
times. These cars are bears out of the hole. If you've never tried it, give it a shot........5000 rpm, slip for about 5 feet and floor it. Sounds harsh, but it's not, because the initial slip tightens the drive train smoothly and gently, not like popping the clutch. The car takes off like a bat out of hell, with absolutely no awful sounding bangs or crunches. Sub 5 seconds ............no problem.

Why do you think it's" not possible."

Regards,

Rocket 6. :drive:
 

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Wiggum,

An all wheel drive vehicle, with the torque this engine puts out, can easily produce sub 5 second 0 to 60 MPH
times. These cars are bears out of the hole. If you've never tried it, give it a shot........5000 rpm, slip for about 5 feet and floor it. Sounds harsh, but it's not, because the initial slip tightens the drive train smoothly and gently, not like popping the clutch. The car takes off like a bat out of hell, with absolutely no awful sounding bangs or crunches. Sub 5 seconds ............no problem.

Why do you think it's" not possible."

Regards,

Rocket 6. :drive:
[/b]
Based on gearing the speed6 hits 60mph in 3rd gear.
 

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Too my knowledge P5Freek has never tested his against a track...

Also keep in mind his times who a sub 5 second 0-60.... i won't comment on that other than "not possible"...
[/b]

Wiggum,

Just remembered, I've seen P5freek seriously smoke a few STi's and according to C&D they do 0-60 in 4.9.

Regards,

Rocket 6 :drive:
 

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Based on gearing the speed6 hits 60mph in 3rd gear.
[/b]

btf,

Very true, but I'll hazard a guess that the short geared STi is in third gear also.

Regards,

Rocket 6 :drive:
 

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Unless your deep staging the car, why would you use 6" or 2". It doesn't make any sense to deep stage because you just increase your chances of a red light. The timer doesn't start until your tire rolls completely out of the beam, and the light circuit is re-connected, so to speak. The staging lights beam, is 1-9/16" above the ground, so if you measure the tire dimension, front to back at that height, you will know how much tire has to roll thru the beam before the timer starts. I think the default is 12" and thats just about right for our cars according to my calculations, but anywhere around 10" to 12" is reasonable. Thats why serious drag racers use tall tires on front of the car.......actually tall and skinny, the skinny gives you less roll resistance for higher MPH and the taller the tire, the farther your car can go without triggering the timer............hence a faster time, higher top speed and you can launch earlier, without red lighting for a great hole shot, on your challenger.
[/b]
I always [edit]shallow stage, around 10". But the only way I can get times within 0.05s in the 1/4 is to have it set at 6" or less. If you watch the FX2, it goes negative as you launch which is accounting for the [edit] shallow stage. I don't think it accounts for the AWD leaving sooner.

As far as the placement of the FX2, I wasn't sure so I put it right under my transponder which is pretty well hidden behind the mirror. I put it in the highest location I could, considering I also have the transponder there, the top of the FX2 is hidden by the mirror but from the top of the screen down, is visable. The only reason I put it there was, because I didn't want anything in the middle of the windshield, as a distraction.
[/b]
So far, this is the perfect spot.

Thanks for sharing....
BTW, FWIW, with my settings, I register around 210hp. Djpetey with CAI, BOV, 3" catback, registers 240hp.

Wiggum, I've run a 0-60 in 5.1s stock with a 1.93 60'. If p5 can run a 1.7x 60', a sub 5s 0-60 is probable.
 

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See Mazdaspeed 6 Wind Tunnel Results for the actual measured Cd and CdA.

Cd is .35

frontal area is 2.150 sq. meters. = 23.14241 sq. feet

CdA = .35 * 23.14 = CdA of 8.10 when you round.

Still better than a H2, but not a Honda Insight.
 

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See Mazdaspeed 6 Wind Tunnel Results for the actual measured Cd and CdA.

Cd is .35

frontal area is 2.150 sq. meters. = 23.14241 sq. feet

CdA = .35 * 23.14 = CdA of 8.10 when you round.

Still better than a H2, but not a Honda Insight.
[/b]


Steve12345,

I like my number better and it looks more realistic. What was the source of your numbers.

Performance and Handling

See more
Specs & Features
at CarsDirect.com
Engine 2.3L I-4 274 HP
Transmission 6-spd man w/OD
Curb Weight 3,589 lbs.
Limited Slip Differential limited slip differential
Front Suspension double wishbone
Front Anti-Roll Bar front anti-roll bar
Rear Suspension multi-link
Rear Anti-Roll Bar rear anti-roll bar
Front Springs coil
Front Shocks gas-pressurized
Rear Springs coil
Rear Shocks gas-pressurized
Drag Coefficient .31 *************
Brakes 4 wheel disc
Wheels 18.0 " silver alloy

There are virtually hundreds of articles that list the Coefficient of Drag for the Mazdaspeed 6 as .31. Not one
gives a listing of .35.

Regards,

Rocket 6 :drive:
 
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