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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was working on getting my tensioner and pulley off last night and am uncertain if I've caused some potentially issues.

While trying to get the serp belt removed, I did not have the car in neutral and spun the crank a fraction of a turn before getting the belt off.

After removing the serp belt, in my attempts to break loose the crank pulley bolt, I have rotated the pulley multiple times, with the car in Park and Drive.

I still haven't got the bolt lose but am uncertain on if I needed to prevent the pulley from rotating at all and if I should be checking anything before getting it back together and turned over.
 

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I still haven't got the bolt lose but am uncertain on if I needed to prevent the pulley from rotating at all and if I should be checking anything before getting it back together and turned over.
Dont understand...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Dont understand...

After struggling with it for awhile, I pulled up CorkSports instructions on replacing the crank pulley as it's the same process. It mentions to have the car in gear or park with someone depressing the brake to prevent the engine from turning over.

If the waterpump belt was still on the pulley, and the car was in drive or park without someone on the brakes, and the pulley was rotated more than a few times, is it going to cause any issues with timing or something?

I may be concerned over nothing due to ignorance, but after I get that pulley off (picking up a stronger air compressor today to try that), and put the new tensioner and crank pulley on, could I have potentially caused some issues when I go to turn the car over for the first time?
 

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The engine timing (which is the timing of the crank with the cams) is done with the timing chain, which you didn't mess with. The serpentine belt and the WP belt are just for driving the auxiliary devices (alternator, WP and AC). No matter you many times you spin the crank it won't hurt anything, as long as you haven't removed the timing chain.

The last time I had to take off a crank pulley, it was on a different car and I had to get creative because my impact wrench would not take it off. I was able to wedge my breaker bar against the suspension and bump the starter. Worked like a charm but it sure was janky!!!
 

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Yup auxiliary drive belts are not timed to anything , crank pulley should be a keyed pulley so it only goes one way on. Timing is as said, kept by the internal timing chain.

Corksport instructions is only meant to help you break the crank pulley bolt loose, otherwise you're just turning the engine over together not loosening the bolt
 

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2013 Mazda 6i Grand Touring - 2.5L I4 Auto
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It mentions to have the car in gear or park with someone depressing the brake to prevent the engine from turning over.
As has already been stated, the serpentine belt has nothing to do with timing so you are fine.

However, understand this: Having the car in gear will only stop the engine turning over if we are talking about a car with a manual transmission. In an automatic, there will not be a direct connection between the engine and the transmission (fluid will be in the torque converter) so the transmission would not provide any meaningful resistance to the engine turning. I suppose if you could theoretically lock the torque converter clutch and then engage the 1st gear clutch (perhaps via a high level scan tool) you could have what you are looking for. But that's a long shot. To stop the engine of an automatic car from turning over you would have to find a way to wedge the crankshaft, camshaft, or flywheel in some way. Having your foot on the brake will have zero effect at all, whether manual or automatic.
 

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Having your foot on the brake will have zero effect at all, whether manual or automatic.
Well, no, on a manual its directly connected to the wheels, so yes it would stop it from spinning with the brakes on.
 

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Well, no, on a manual its directly connected to the wheels, so yes it would stop it from spinning with the brakes on.
Only if the vehicle is in gear. At which point the weight of the vehicle is usually enough to stop the engine rotating with the torque from the hand. Thinking about it, maybe not zero effect in a manual. There might be the off chance that some movement could result and the brake would stave that off, but in all my years I don't think I've ever encountered such an event. Not to say that others wouldn't, mind you. But I would think chocking the wheels or engaging the parking brake would suffice - in other words, no need for a second person.
 

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Not to say that others wouldn't, mind you.
Im saying it, cause ive done it on my Talon a long time ago, while it was in the air.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thankfully I got the bolt off, happened to have the engine oil seal in my parts bin so replaced that along with belt tensioner, both belts, and got the lightweight crank pulley on. Have about 120 miles on it now and it is driving great. Only thing I am not super confident on was the new crank pulley lock bolt going on. With the lightweight crank not having any gaps to fit the pulley wrench on to hold it still and torque it down, I hit it with the impact a few times and that's the extent of the torqueing down I got done.

I also couldn't get a torque wrench to the tensioner lower bolt or upper nut, so those are tightened to my best approximation using a crescent wrench. Knowing ahead of time, I would have gotten an extra long 12mm crescent wrench beforehand to make the tensioner replacement go a bit smoother.

I have the CorkSport rear mount and was having insane vibration at idle with the AC on, and now it's wayyyyyy more tame and a lot more comfortable.
 
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