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AWR Lower (Third) Engine Mount 2016 "6"/MTX

2K views 33 replies 7 participants last post by  Beefalo 
#1 ·
The "3" one they sell fits the "6".

I ordered the "88" durometer; one down from maximum. IMHO, its a bit too much and I will likely buy either the 70 or 62 bushing to replace the one it came with (they're cheap and changing them out is not hard.)

What's NOT to like: There is a resonance you feel at launch and on startup. First start after I put it in I thought maybe I screwed something up. Nope. On the road it has only a little bit of impact on NVH, but on start and on launch its noticeable and, at this durometer, I'd argue objectionable.

What's TO like: The torque-shift under hard acceleration is entirely GONE. These cars aren't bad in that regard but its there. With this mount in there I can literally take my hands off the wheel while punching it at maximum torque and I get NO deviation at all. That's nice, and in addition the "lurchiness" creeping along in 1st (you never have to do that in traffic, right?) is gone as well -- but at the cost of what I consider unacceptable vibration with the 88 bushing at launch. Once off the line its not objectionable at all.

I'll update this if/when I put the softer bushing in it; they say to drive it for 500 miles first, as it does break in. Ok. Still think I'll change 'em, but I'll drive it for a couple of weeks first.

Is it worth it? IMHO if the softer ones take care of most of the vibration at lower RPMs under load, yes. It does make a noticeable difference in handling under acceleration and the low-speed creep nastiness being gone is a good thing as well. Momma ain't gonna like it, however, with the 88 durometer bushing in it. Go softer.

Install is easy. Put car on ramps, loosen the three bolts on the transmission case, remove the two that hold the stock one in there, remove it and put the new one in. Note the torque on the transmission bracket bolts -- that's an aluminum case and their torque is materially LESS than the two that go through the mount itself even though they're the same-size-head bolts. Because this does have an impact on the suspension you want to bolt it up with weight on the wheels, so use ramps if you have them rather than stands.
 
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#3 ·
I just undid the two bolts that go through it, not the mount bolts.
 
#6 ·
Small pry bar and out the top side.
 
#10 ·
Same as my RMM thread.
 
#11 ·
Ok, I put the "extra soft" bushings in.

NOW Momma won't complain. The only increase in NVH over stock is a bit of vibration at idle out of gear. Other than that its all improvement, all of the improvement with the medium-hard bushings, and none of the bad.

Specifically the torque shift is still gone and I can still creep at almost-idle in 1st gear without any herky-jerky, nor is there any on launch. No nasty vibration resonance on launch either.

This is a winner; I would definitely NOT replace a worn factory one with another and would buy this instead, and if you have the MTX and are annoyed by the misbehavior when creeping in traffic here's the answer to the problem with almost no downside.

Recommended.
 
#13 ·
I put the 62s in; don't have a set of 70s. The "medium hard" (88) was too much and, in my opinion, gives you nothing but more harshness over the 62.

The only vibration addition with the 62s is at dead idle where there is a bit -- its not bad but you certainly know its there. THAT trade-off I will keep.
 
#14 ·
So I just ordered the 62 to replace my CorkSport mount. I also contacted them last week about the larger passenger side mount that sits on top of the wheel-well. I am shipping them my OEM mount with the bracket for them to develop their own product and will be getting the first one to test and review once it's completed. I have a 2016 Mazda 6 Sport A/T so if I am not mistaken it fits the 2014-2017 6 for all trims. I can provide updates along the way if anyone would like.
 
#15 ·
Whether you'll get anything valuable from the top ones is an open question, but the "creep capability" with the bottom replaced, standing alone, is IMHO absolutely worth it and something I wish I had known about a few years ago.

Yes, it has a price, in that at idle there is notable engine vibration. But that's the only place it has a detrimental contribution. I can see where Mazda would make the tradeoff they did, particularly since the "take rate" on the MTX was something like 7% and as a result only 7% of the buyers would ever experience the negative side of the OE decision.
 
#17 ·
No reason to think AT is different.
 
#19 ·
There is vibration at idle, although A/C on or off does not appear to matter. I wouldn't call it horrendous, but you do know its there. But -- I can literally do the same sort of "creep" thing I can do with my diesel Jetta with this in the car -- that is, feather the clutch from a dead stop until it is entirely engaged and creep along with no gas pedal at all, and/or creep along at whatever walking-speed sort of pace I'd like once the clutch is out in 1st gear. With the factory mount that was a herky-jerky no-effing-way sort of thing that led me to believe the PCM was simply incapable of regulating the engine under those conditions.

Nope; the engine and PCM were not the issue. At all.

Once off idle (at all) the vibration is gone too. No NVH impact I can detect with the 62 duro bushing in there except at dead idle.

And, the torque shift under hard acceleration remains gone.

I wish I'd know about this years ago; I would have bought it immediately as its the one bogon in driveability that has always bothered me about the car and the minor cost in terms of NVH at idle, while it would lovely if it didn't exist, is a perfectly-acceptable tradeoff.
 
#21 ·
Just installed the 62 Durometer one on my 2016 MTX, What a difference it makes! As Tickerguy said there is a bit of vibration at idle, no big deal. But such improvement in shifting and no more lurch!

I had to remove the bracket to remove the OEM mount. Attached are the torques specs.
 

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#23 ·
I love how everyone is thanking Ticker when i was the first one to get one lol. ;)
 
#25 ·
I thanked 'ya @TalonTsi90
I know, im just messing around.

but I seriously-disagree with your choice of durometer for the bushings..... IMHO those harder ones (which is what I started with) are wildly unacceptable for an every driving vehicle and add nothing over the softer in everyday use.
I know, but i dont drive my car like you do yours, and seriously, once its started/running, i dont even notice it at all.
 
#30 ·
I bought one DOWN from what Talon had put in and while still on the ramps when starting it thought I had broken something and dropped an engine mount or similar. No way I would have kept those in the car despite it fixing the "creep/buck" problem entirely; NVH was flatly-unacceptable to me.

Thus I went and ordered the 62 replacement and with that in there I really like it.
 
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