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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The "3" one they sell fits the "6".

I ordered the "88" durometer; one down from maximum. IMHO, its a bit too much and I will likely buy either the 70 or 62 bushing to replace the one it came with (they're cheap and changing them out is not hard.)

What's NOT to like: There is a resonance you feel at launch and on startup. First start after I put it in I thought maybe I screwed something up. Nope. On the road it has only a little bit of impact on NVH, but on start and on launch its noticeable and, at this durometer, I'd argue objectionable.

What's TO like: The torque-shift under hard acceleration is entirely GONE. These cars aren't bad in that regard but its there. With this mount in there I can literally take my hands off the wheel while punching it at maximum torque and I get NO deviation at all. That's nice, and in addition the "lurchiness" creeping along in 1st (you never have to do that in traffic, right?) is gone as well -- but at the cost of what I consider unacceptable vibration with the 88 bushing at launch. Once off the line its not objectionable at all.

I'll update this if/when I put the softer bushing in it; they say to drive it for 500 miles first, as it does break in. Ok. Still think I'll change 'em, but I'll drive it for a couple of weeks first.

Is it worth it? IMHO if the softer ones take care of most of the vibration at lower RPMs under load, yes. It does make a noticeable difference in handling under acceleration and the low-speed creep nastiness being gone is a good thing as well. Momma ain't gonna like it, however, with the 88 durometer bushing in it. Go softer.

Install is easy. Put car on ramps, loosen the three bolts on the transmission case, remove the two that hold the stock one in there, remove it and put the new one in. Note the torque on the transmission bracket bolts -- that's an aluminum case and their torque is materially LESS than the two that go through the mount itself even though they're the same-size-head bolts. Because this does have an impact on the suspension you want to bolt it up with weight on the wheels, so use ramps if you have them rather than stands.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok, I put the "extra soft" bushings in.

NOW Momma won't complain. The only increase in NVH over stock is a bit of vibration at idle out of gear. Other than that its all improvement, all of the improvement with the medium-hard bushings, and none of the bad.

Specifically the torque shift is still gone and I can still creep at almost-idle in 1st gear without any herky-jerky, nor is there any on launch. No nasty vibration resonance on launch either.

This is a winner; I would definitely NOT replace a worn factory one with another and would buy this instead, and if you have the MTX and are annoyed by the misbehavior when creeping in traffic here's the answer to the problem with almost no downside.

Recommended.
 

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Wow tickerguy, the jerkiness when crawling around in first gear is one of my biggest beefs with this car. Looks like I will be placing an order for one of these too. Did you end up with the 62 or 70 durometer bushings?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I put the 62s in; don't have a set of 70s. The "medium hard" (88) was too much and, in my opinion, gives you nothing but more harshness over the 62.

The only vibration addition with the 62s is at dead idle where there is a bit -- its not bad but you certainly know its there. THAT trade-off I will keep.
 

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So I just ordered the 62 to replace my CorkSport mount. I also contacted them last week about the larger passenger side mount that sits on top of the wheel-well. I am shipping them my OEM mount with the bracket for them to develop their own product and will be getting the first one to test and review once it's completed. I have a 2016 Mazda 6 Sport A/T so if I am not mistaken it fits the 2014-2017 6 for all trims. I can provide updates along the way if anyone would like.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Whether you'll get anything valuable from the top ones is an open question, but the "creep capability" with the bottom replaced, standing alone, is IMHO absolutely worth it and something I wish I had known about a few years ago.

Yes, it has a price, in that at idle there is notable engine vibration. But that's the only place it has a detrimental contribution. I can see where Mazda would make the tradeoff they did, particularly since the "take rate" on the MTX was something like 7% and as a result only 7% of the buyers would ever experience the negative side of the OE decision.
 

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Whether you'll get anything valuable from the top ones is an open question, but the "creep capability" with the bottom replaced, standing alone, is IMHO absolutely worth it and something I wish I had known about a few years ago.

Yes, it has a price, in that at idle there is notable engine vibration. But that's the only place it has a detrimental contribution. I can see where Mazda would make the tradeoff they did, particularly since the "take rate" on the MTX was something like 7% and as a result only 7% of the buyers would ever experience the negative side of the OE decision.
Are you suggesting that this cpt is the same for a/t cars versus M/T cars... and that creeping in an a/t car is ever an issue (versus yes it is with an m/t)?
 

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Are you suggesting that this cpt is the same for a/t cars versus M/T cars... and that creeping in an a/t car is ever an issue (versus yes it is with an m/t)?
I have experienced the lurching at low speeds frequently and mine is an a/t. I replaced the rear torque strut mount with CorkSport's a few months ago and it hadn't happened since, but the vibrations at idle with the a/c on are horrendous.


Replacing the crank pulley with the lightweight pulley from Torque Solutions mitigated the vibrations but not nearly as much as I'd like. I'm hoping the 62 durometer mount from AWR will drop it down more
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
There is vibration at idle, although A/C on or off does not appear to matter. I wouldn't call it horrendous, but you do know its there. But -- I can literally do the same sort of "creep" thing I can do with my diesel Jetta with this in the car -- that is, feather the clutch from a dead stop until it is entirely engaged and creep along with no gas pedal at all, and/or creep along at whatever walking-speed sort of pace I'd like once the clutch is out in 1st gear. With the factory mount that was a herky-jerky no-effing-way sort of thing that led me to believe the PCM was simply incapable of regulating the engine under those conditions.

Nope; the engine and PCM were not the issue. At all.

Once off idle (at all) the vibration is gone too. No NVH impact I can detect with the 62 duro bushing in there except at dead idle.

And, the torque shift under hard acceleration remains gone.

I wish I'd know about this years ago; I would have bought it immediately as its the one bogon in driveability that has always bothered me about the car and the minor cost in terms of NVH at idle, while it would lovely if it didn't exist, is a perfectly-acceptable tradeoff.
 
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