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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This weekend I pulled up to a stop sign, started out in first gear, DCS off, normal take off, nothing hard, once the clutch is fully engaged I give the car about 3/4 throttle..the car makes a load pop noise and the shifter pops out of first. I depress the clutch put it back into gear and proceed to engage the clutch again, same procedure only this time when i give it more gas the front tires spin like mad, smoke everywhere, 4WD light blinking like crazy. I let off the gas and the car hooks up, 4WD light still blinking. I check the e-brake and it's not engaged. So I think maybe the rear diff overheated somehow. Drive the car home let it sit overnight. Proceed to the dealership in the morning, once the car is warmed up, I try the same thing and it again roasts the front tires, 4WD light blinking. Drop the car off, explain what has happened.

I get a call in the evening just before they are closing saying there is nothing wrong with the car, refusing to believe this I went in and demanded that a tech go with me so I can show him exactly what is happening. Turned DCS off did the same thing and the car again roasts the front tires. The tech's first response is "that's normal because you have DCS off" I said BS. Turned DCS back on and while the car did not roast the tires, the DCS light was now blinking because 4WD wasn't working and the front tires were trying to spin. Again the tech said "that's normal" I again said BS. I told him to get me a new one to drive so I can prove it and of course they didn't have any on the lot, only in the remote lot. As they were about to close, they were reluctant to go get one.

I got a call today, from the service advisor telling me once again that there is nothing wrong with the car. They said they put the car on the rack, lifted it into the air and gave it gas, all four tires were getting power. Would all four tires spin if the car is lifted off the ground? Am I crazy? This car should not light up the front tires just because DCS is turned off, unless the e-brake is engaged, correct?
 

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If that is how your dealership troubleshoots, I'd find another one.


See right dar boss them wheels are a turnin.
 
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You should ask them to write you a report including all the "symptoms" you observed and the result of their diagnosis or inspection. Verbal report doesn't mean much in the future. Then send the report to Mazda directly. For something serious like that, I would like to have as much information documented as possible.

And yeah, try another Mazda shop.
 

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It's def. a problem with the AWD system, once the front tires start to spin they should send more power to the rear. Go to another dealer.
 

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Go to another dealer, it is definatly a problem, ask a tech to ride shotgun, thats the way it should've been dealt with, not lift it and give it gas, thats stupid.
 

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You should ask them to write you a report including all the "symptoms" you observed and the result of their diagnosis or inspection. Verbal report doesn't mean much in the future. Then send the report to Mazda directly. For something serious like that, I would like to have as much information documented as possible.

And yeah, try another Mazda shop.
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+1

I dunno if I'd want to have them work on my car after that...
 

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the onlyway you can light up the tires is if the ebrake is on, if your sure it was the 4wd light not the little losing tracton light, id go to another dealer.
 

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Sorry to hear about your problem. As it seems to be happening more and more with dealerships not really caring about problems or just plain being ignorant, please list the name of the dealer so maybe some other site members can avoid those idiots should they run into any problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sorry to hear about your problem. As it seems to be happening more and more with dealerships not really caring about problems or just plain being ignorant, please list the name of the dealer so maybe some other site members can avoid those idiots should they run into any problems.
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In defense of the dealership, they are generally very good. They have taken very good care of me with both my speed and my 6s. The problem was it was a holiday weekend and both my regular service advisor who knows me quite well and the techs familar with the car were on holiday.

I just got a call from my regular service advisor who is back from vacation. He took the car out himself and said he immediately knew something was wrong. They put the car back in the air and as it turns out, dun dun dun.... broken rear axle. Suprise, surprise. He told me he put a tech who is familiar with the car (the guy who normally works on my car) on it, instead of the guy who said nothing was wrong. Rear axle is on order. I also asked him to check the differential mount to see if it is cracked or loose, since that seems to be why most people are breaking rear axles. He is going to have it checked when they replace the axle tomorrow.

In the mean time, they gave me a blazing copper 6s hatch, to roll around in.
 

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so wait you broke the rear axle yourself right by launching it and whatnot right? And they are going to replace it under warranty for free and gave you a car to drive around meantime? Did they say anything to you about it being abuse or anything? Cause if thats the case. Wow great deal.

(btw not critizing you or putting the blame on you just wondering for my own)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
so wait you broke the rear axle yourself right by launching it and whatnot right? And they are going to replace it under warranty for free and gave you a car to drive around meantime? Did they say anything to you about it being abuse or anything? Cause if thats the case. Wow great deal.

(btw not critizing you or putting the blame on you just wondering for my own)
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I didn't launch the car. I am very cautious about that, having already been through one clutch. I take off normal, and engage the clutch as smooth as possible at mild RPM's (1500 - 2000 or so) , once the clutch is fully engaged, then I get on it, about 3/4 of the throttle, when I want to feel the power I paid for.

When I got on the throttle this time, the car made a loud "POP" noise which I can only assume was my axle shearing and the car popped out of first. When I attempted the same procedure, I roasted the front tires.

I could be rolling at 15 MPH in first, floor it and the tires would fry until I let off the gas on dry pavement. Not that I have a normal habit of doing it, but that was the only way to show the dealership what was happening.

Dealership gave me zero hassle after acknowledging the problem. They know me very well, I have purchased 4 cars from them and have always had my cars serviced there. They know I don't abuse my cars. They have always stood behind me when it came to warranty items.
 

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Hmmm, at least they finally found the cause / problem and making good on it.

Burning question though, you have a two or four bolt rear differential bracket mount? Reason for my inquiry is there seems to be a liine of thought going on in another thread, that may be causing a false sense of security that if you have the four bolt rear bracket, then the axles shafts may not be prone to breakage. If you have the four bolt rear differential bracket, then there goes the neighborhood! :irate:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hmmm, at least they finally found the cause / problem and making good on it.

Burning question though, you have a two or four bolt rear differential bracket mount? Reason for my inquiry is there seems to be a liine of thought going on in another thread, that may be causing a false sense of security that if you have the four bolt rear bracket, then the axles shafts may not be prone to breakage. If you have the four bolt rear differential bracket, then there goes the neighborhood! :irate:
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Not even sure if the differential bracket broke or not, I will find out tomorrow. But so far nobody has been able to confirm a two bolt bracket even existed. Even the first drivetrain pictures of the MS6 from 2004 show a 4 bolt bracket. I will know tomorrow whether my bracket broke or not. If it is broken, I will ask to see it in order to determine how many bolts it has, but my guess is it has four.
 

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Yeah... it is looking like an aftermarket solution is really needed here. As far as Mazda coming up with a fix... take a look at GM and the rear end problems with the CTS-V.
 

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I'm finally taking my car in this week... I've had a broken axle for about 2 months. Many reasons why I couldn't take it in, but the stock springs are going back on today and I too launched the car like normal and ended up with a broken axle. Cheap shit
 

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I'm finally taking my car in this week... I've had a broken axle for about 2 months. Many reasons why I couldn't take it in, but the stock springs are going back on today and I too launched the car like normal and ended up with a broken axle. Cheap shit
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Wow, and in other threads they are taking about upgrading to ATP turbos etc etc.
I drvie my speed 6 kindly too with no launching. Can you imagine what is going to happen to the rear diff and axles with 400+ crank horsepower.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Picked up my car today. New axle is in. My service rep said they checked the differential mount and bolts and everything is fine. After mentioning the revised mount, they checked my car and confirmed that I have the older style mount. According to them, both mounts have four bolts, but the new mount is a little beefier than the original. They did call Mazda NA and asked about replacing the differential mount with the revised mount and Mazda said they will not replace it, unless the current mount is broken.

What I find interesting is that I broke an axle, WITHOUT there being any problems present with the differential mount. When I asked to see the axle it showed the same break point as the axle shown in this thread:

http://forum.mazda6club.com/index.php?showtopic=63206

The CV joint underneath the boot on the side that connects to the differential.
 

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Picked up my car today. New axle is in. My service rep said they checked the differential mount and bolts and everything is fine. After mentioning the revised mount, they checked my car and confirmed that I have the older style mount. According to them, both mounts have four bolts, but the new mount is a little beefier than the original. They did call Mazda NA and asked about replacing the differential mount with the revised mount and Mazda said they will not replace it, unless the current mount is broken.

What I find interesting is that I broke an axle, WITHOUT there being any problems present with the differential mount. When I asked to see the axle it showed the same break point as the axle shown in this thread:

http://forum.mazda6club.com/index.php?showtopic=63206

The CV joint underneath the boot on the side that connects to the differential.
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So how is everything going for your new parts? :laugh:
 

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i just had the same problem bro , my rear wont go and my front end lights up the tires like crazy
 
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