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haha, in that vid of fender rolling, did the guy bend the rim in the last roll?
 

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Discussion Starter #22
haha, in that vid of fender rolling, did the guy bend the rim in the last roll?
Dang, I think so. I never watched it all the way to the end before. :p
 

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Discussion Starter #23
The AutoX at Piedmont was fun. We got 6 runs each so with my co-driver we put 12 runs on the Mazda6. :thumbup: Below is my fastest run:


The course was pretty good but there were two big bumps that I didn't like. Notice the dip at about the 30sec mark. It caused the suspension to fully compress and my exhaust bottomed out. I was really surprised the exhaust hit. It's easily 4" off the ground. Take a look below at my (formerly round) pipe.



There was another BIG bump at 39sec - the last right hander - that made the right front suspension bottom. :mad:

The only other problem we encountered was when my co-driver ran over a cone and pulled loose a brake duct from the backing plate. Easy fix.

Real happy with the changes we made to the rear swaybar. It seems we softened it enough to get rid of the "snap oversteer". It's still a bit loose - which is ok, but now you can induce the oversteer rather than it being a surprise. :thumbup:

We didn't hang around for the results, but it seemed like we were a couple seconds behind the local "Hot Shoes".

Now we re-torque everything, change the brake fluid, slap on some new rubber and head to VIR. Woohoo! :burnout:
 

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Discussion Starter #24
With the new MFactory LSD installed, my MS6 brake upgrade and my new 275s on 18x10s, I've been itching to flog the car and see how it performs. Here in the South, our autocross season starts in February with our first event being held yesterday.

Forecast Saturday was snow; Sunday was to be sunny and cold. I loaded the car up Saturday morning and threw a tarp over it since it has no side glass. Here's how it looked Sunday at 7:30am - temp 25deg:



The Auto-x was 2hrs NW of my house and reports were that most of the snow fell east of me, so I figured "what the hell" and headed out.

I arrived with a dirty car to find blue skies and no snow. :thumbup:



Between my codriver and I, we got 12 runs on the car as the temp climbed to a high of 35deg. I'll apologize now for the lack of pics and video, but for 6.5hrs we were primarily focused on staying warm and figuring out what was the strange noise coming from the car.

The first 2 or 3 runs provided no meaningful data because the tires were so cold. Once we go a "little" heat into the tires, the car was alot more predictable.

The good:
1. The MS6 brakes with HP+ pads are very good. Great initial bite and good pedal feel. Dirty as hell, but they are a track pad.
2. The LSD rocks! No "one wheel peel" as we exited turns. :p
3. The 275s don't rub in the front.

The bad (or not so good):
1. We began to hear a rubbing noise from the RF wheel every time we turned right. It was the inside top of the wheel rubbing on the knuckle. Normally, there is no relative motion between the wheel and the knuckle - the knuckle moves with the wheel. Upon further inspection, we discovered the bushing in the front-lower-leading control arm was sloopy - allowing the top of the tire to tip inward and rub the knuckle. :mad:
2. Rear tires rub just a bit on the fender.

We'll be addressing these issue before the next Auto-x shackdown on 3/3.

CR
 

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HECK YEAH!!!

That's a pretty gosh darn minimal list for the amount of work & changes you had. Easily corrected.

Looking forward to the next event!
 

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Haha at this rate you're going to be the next Stig!

I love keeping up with your threads, you update with all the details we crave and it's awesome to see you racing the 6. Keep it up man!
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I guess I've known it for some time now and just didn't want to admit that there is such a thing as too loose. I spent this past weekend chasing the rear of the car. Out of 5 autocross runs, I spun 4 times - sorry only got the first two on video.


I'll admit to some of it being technique (or perhaps lack there of), but both of my off track excursions last year were because of the rear breaking loose. I've done all I can with the 27mm rear swaybar to get it a bit softer. So, as much as I hate to, I'll be trying a smaller diameter rear swaybar.

Next event - April 14th.

CR
 

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Discussion Starter #28
A little drift action as the rearend starts to come around.



Trying to sneak a couple of cones home with me under the car. No penalty if they can't fine the cones, right?

 

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Haha I see you're trying to keep those cones so you can build your own autoX course :p

Nice spinning there, eventually I want to run an autoX with my friend, I'll probably end up spinning or taking half the cones with me haha
 

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psssshhhhhhh
ain't no opposite lock going on there
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Did another AutoX Sunday - trying to get the handling balance sorted out. The car was terrible! The Mazda6 went from crazy loose to pushing like a plow truck after changing the RSB from 27mm to 19mm. Absolutely would not rotate. I knew the 19mm was going to be too soft (but it was the only other bar I had), So I cut the ends off and welded slots on that allowed me to shorten the arm length and increase the roll resistance by 30%.

Here's the 27mm and my modified 19mm - even when adjusted to it's stiffest setting it was still not enough.



Here's one of my faster runs. You can really hear the front tires complaining as the car pushes in the long sweepers.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1PcmFDNccr4

Guess I need to find a 22 or 24mm. I'm gonna check what size bar is on my wife's Fusion. :p

CR
 

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Discussion Starter #32
The car may not turn very well, but the combination of MS6 brakes and wide sticky tires can stand it on its nose. :cool:

 

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Lol for a second there I thought you put a lift kit in for your auto X! Props to whoever took the action shot too. I love how you have way bigger rotors in the front and the small stock ones in the back haha unless they're both speed rotors?
 

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Pretty sure, 6 ms6 rears are the same?
Nah 12.6 and 12.4 for the speed and 11.1 and 11.0 at least for the non facelifted 6 the refresh got slightly larger brake rotors but not quite ms6 size.

I think at least lol.

Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Really? That small a diff? Wow, thought they would just run the same.. Another, extremely small tweek, to create a new part number.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Steeda 22.5 mm read bar: Steeda Ford Fusion Rear Street Swaybar - Made in the USA

No idea how it goes though, just stumbled upon the site while trying to find something else.
Yeah, I was looking at that one too. I ended up buying a 24mm. We'll see how it goes. I'm heading back to VIR for Cinco de Mayo weekend! :D

As for brakes - I only upgraded the fronts to MS6. The rears contribute so little (the car is weight biased nearly 66/33 front/rear) big rear brakes would just be more weight.

CR
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Couple more AutoX Pics

You saw one "on the brakes hard". Here's" on the gas hard:



Get close to the cone - but don't touch! :D




CR
 

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Yeah, I was looking at that one too. I ended up buying a 24mm. We'll see how it goes. I'm heading back to VIR for Cinco de Mayo weekend! :D

As for brakes - I only upgraded the fronts to MS6. The rears contribute so little (the car is weight biased nearly 66/33 front/rear) big rear brakes would just be more weight.

CR
I've had to detune a front bar when I went to a road course (rwd) with the rear track increased 2", and the rear CG dropped about 1 inch, both of which greatly improved rear stick ... alot more than I thought. It was 1st hot lap, and as I approached turn 1 (summit point) at about 120 with a sharp 90 deg 45mph right, the car went straight off the track. Before the rear change, I never had trouble there. To save the track day, front sway bar de-rate:

1) replaced solid aluminum pivots with oem rubber ones (from my track tool box)

--->not enough

2) added a couple washers (from track tool box) under each hole in the bushing bracket, so bar was loosly held .... bingo, a fun day was saved.

------------------

When you put the 19 on the rear, with shorter lever link points, you did not upgrade the bar much since the stiffness is only based on the square of that length. For rear bars with 2 holes in typically short levers, the difference between settings is about 1mm bar dia.

The 24mm (Progress?) should be much better than oem, as the stiffness change is based on the dia ratio to the 4th power. The only mod on my DD M6 is a 22.5mm rear bar, which is perfect for that setup. I wanted to match the rubber oem bushings on the front bar, so Idid some research and found 22.5 Audi S4 rear oem bracket and rubber bush. That will take more work to install as the Audi's HD bracket holes need to be elongated.


On the rwd I autoxed and tracked, on the 5 hole adjustment on my custom designed and fabricated rear bar, I ran 1 step stiffer for autox, and mid position for the big road courses.


Suggestion: bring the big bar to the track in case 24 ain't enough, and find rubber bushings and brackets for 27mm dia, for de-tuning it. The effect will be quicker turn-in, and a delayed kick out of the rear.

Good Luck!

.
 
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