No. If you want to do two or three more drain-and-fill procedures (assuming you drained and refilled just one time), that will replace most of the fluid and it’ll have something of the bluish tint you’re expecting. It’ll also mean you have mostly fresh fluid in the tranny.
I’ve seen various reports of a seemingly reddish tint to drained ATF from these SkyDrive A/Ts, including from my own. It could be a heat or oxidation byproduct, it could be from contamination (clutch wear debris, for example), or it could be from a number of things.
Either way, worry is not applicable or useful. You changed the fluid, so you’ve freshened thing a up a bit. If you want to do another couple or three drains over the next few hundred (or thousand) miles, you’ll have replaced most of the ATF. Then you can watch and see over the next 75k whether it turns kinda sorta reddish again.
Not sure if this was the case for your red ATF.
I know a couple of folks have used Dex VI (low viscosity) with LubeGard Platinum ATF additive, which meets Mazda ATF FZ spec, With great results and no reports of ill effects.
Actually a while ago, used this in my son's '12 Mazda 3 Sky: dropped pan, replaced filter, and put in almost 6 quarts of Dex VI ATF with platinum LubeGard.
OMG what a fantastic improvement (car has 90k miles with no evidence of any AT maintenance), shifts much faster much smoother!
That chart is laughable. In applications that spec Merc V, they say to use Dex-Merc + their additive rather than just to use Merc V. In other applications, they say to use Merc V + their additive. Talk about taking the long way 'round, just to sell product...
@bulwnkl ya,a lot of the applications are odd, obviously some of that is due to varying specifications of different manufacturers.
The important part is that you start with a good base transmission fluid (synthetic) that is the right viscosity, their additive simply boosts the additive package high enough to meet most standards.
It's only worthwhile for Mazda ATF-FZ because you can get full synthetic Dex VI ATF for so much cheaper.
There are other sources for FZ. $17/l? See if you can get the Ravenol FZ fluid -- same stuff, may be materially more reasonable.
I would be extremely careful with aftermarket fluids. The problem here is that ATX fluid is a base light oil with an additive package, and you have no way to know if the various additive packages are compatible chemically.
Get it wrong and you're buying a new transmission.
Over the past 20 years I have used Maxlife ATF in Honda's - Toyota's - Audi's - Nissan's - Ford's- in over 20 different cars/suv's.
Never ran into an issue except better shifting and quicker clutch engagement. Ran it for 80,000 in our A4. Flushed the whole system with it.
I would use it in the mazda now, but I am still under warranty and don't want any claim issues.
Mazda's ATF is no different than any other torque converter Auto Trans. Similar to Honda's but not radical enough to warrant such a specific fluid.
Yeah the issue isn't the oil -- it's that neither you or I know what's in the additive package.
I run into plenty of people who are "oh it says it's fine with X" where X is coolant or transmission fluid. You go right and do that. I've got 20 year old Dexcool in my GM that looks and performs as if it was filled at the factory yesterday. Yeah. Mix it with whatever and... who knows.
I don't play that game when it comes to fluids. Oil, sure. "S" rated of the right weight in a gas engine? Have at it. No problem. Diesels and certain other engines that have odd specs? Not so fast; play that game and sometimes you get to buy a camshaft or worse, and it's not just "new" engines where that comes into play either; old 2-stroke Detroits want straight 40wt with a certain set of specs and they mean it unless you like buying camshafts (or worse, fouling exhaust valves!) and they're a pain to change too. ATX fluids and coolants? Nope. I run what the manufacturer specifies, not the "multi-use" stuff you can get at the parts store. Always have. Am I getting ripped off? Maybe, maybe not. But somehow I don't wind up buying transmissions, radiators and similar components over time doing it this way, so I'll keep doing it......
Some of us want to gamble with expensive components and bad things that could- or may not happen to them. Some of us will pay more for OEM- endorsed or branded fluids because we don't want to gamble... (and want to extract max. value out of our vehicles, i.e. run 'em for many miles).