*APEXCONE HID kit $130 shipped!!!! OUR LOWEST PRICE!!*Xenon Expert

1) if they are the same identical kits then why Xtec bulbs sell more than Apex ones on your site ?!
http://www.xenonexpert.com/hidbulbs.html

2) ... what is the difference between this DDM kit (besides smallest ballast - by how much - what's their respective sizes ?) http://www.xenonexpert.com/ddm_kit.html
and the Apexcones kit http://www.xenonexpert.com/hids4ukit.html

I'm interested/only starting to find out here and would like to know all the differences , advantages , etc. such as circuitry reliability and best avail. from market stuff mumbo jumbo . The ones I would purchase would be the 4500k , but first ....

3) ..How much brighter the off-road 55W one compared to the 35W ?
4) ..Will 35/55W kits hurt our stock 6 's power/electrical system also ??
4b) Does it require/pull a lot of juice from the alternator/battery ?
5) ..How do these 35/55W compare to HIDs from the BMWs & Bimmers as far as intensity + color of light displayed on the road ?
5b) I'd expect that you have fog bulbs (ones that go in same top headlight housing - not bumper fogs) )that would match color projection of your HID kits respectively ? And what about the parking bulb in the same housing ??
6) ..Do your kits project further straightforward ahead in distance than the stock 6 , besides just glowing brighter , how much more if so ?

7) Where is the best place to fit the balast in the engine bay , or somewhere else for it to be discrete and at the same time weatherproof if it is not already completely ?

there is an indicator of Lumens here http://www.xenonexpert.com/hids4ukit.html

I gather these are listed as only 35W (check RPM chart below)
4500K = Great light output (3400 lumens), White, best performance
5000K = Great light output (3200 lumens), Pure white, very good looks
6000K = Good light output (3000 lumens) , white with blue hue, best looks

This is what I found at therpmstore http://www.therpmstore.com/product_info.ph...bcf800843fa12c1

Color Description 35 watt Lumens / 50 watt Lumens

3000k "Ion" yellow 3200 / 4000
4500k Pure white 3400 / 4200
5000k White with a tiny hint of blue 3300 / 4100
6000k White with a violet hue 3200 / 4000
8000k Sky blue 3100 / 3900
10000k Dark sky blue 2900 / 3700
Purple Magenta 2900 / 3700

Alright Oliver , I'm right on the edge of buying .. cash is there !

Now the fact I'm in Montreal and I have no one to verify with in person that has a 6000K kit , except you Oliver :yesnod: I would like to drop by your place to check out your M3 6000Ks for color temp decision + Live output ! I'm just 15 minute drive from your address .... isn't that COOL !!!!? Lucky me
Now I'm torn between the 6000K and the 5000K .... : I do want some blue enough that it's not pure white ; but I would know better once I see your set-up Oliver

+ .... I know I want the 50w for the H1 , but not sure if adding a 50w kit for the H3 is just a waste and that the 35w would do just fine ? I'm leaning towards both 50w H1 + H3 just to be sure the first time . Any opinions anyone who have done either ? Also I've read you offer additional discount on buying two kits + the fact Christmas is around the corner heheh !

Other question would be for the H3 . Now a lot of talk here on the metal cut-off thingy for the H1 - removal for glare purposes . I know with the 50w I won't have a choice to remove it . But what about the H3 - any glare deflector in there ? - 'cause I haven't seen anyone write up on the subject !

Now it will be coming with two wire harnesses (50w kits) . Most don't use it . Heck we have 55w OEM powered Halogens on the 6 . That's fine . But what about when the balasts do ignite at start point ? They do draw more , than their continuous power-draw afterwards ? To ignite the Gas-Filled bulbs I'm told that there is more current drawned . Is that true .... gotta think the harness is a safety factor when considering all our stock harness could fry . Is this founded or not ?

Now here's a neat trick that vulgar_si has relayed to me and I thought I'd share it with any who's interested . We all know flash-to pass high beams - turning on/off the Highs more than once is detrimental to the balasts ! See shortened lifespan . Well Vulgar told me the following to give me an idea (I have more details for those interested you can PM me)

The wire harness I built. I got a relay a couple of fuses and some wire and made the whole thing. If you run a harness then you have a seperate power wire for the low beams and high beams. The high beam power would be the stock wires. That means when you press your high beams the power isn't cut to your low beams, because it is running on its own power wires from the harness you made. Which means the low beams don't turn off and therefor shouldn't be bad for them.
Its also really nice to have the extra light these HIDs coupled with the high beams. You can see everything.

Neat indeed ... now Guinea Pig is willing to help me disable the DRLs on my Canadian 6 .

If I could drop by Oliver to finalize the order with you in person it would be great to meet you & shake your hand + I have a sponsorship offer to discuss with you for the Montreal Mustang Club where I am a Moderator .

Check your PM & Email sent as well .
Ron P.