Any idea on rust
DIY:
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In order for it have any kind of duration you will have to remove all the rusted metal or gamble with converting it. I reckon that if you wire wheel/grind that rusted stuff out there will not be much metal to define an edge for the bondo.
If it were me I would clean out as much as possible and convert all the rusted areas with phosphoric/tanic acid and then install a set of fender flares on it. You will have to work with the wheel offset to make it look right but the MPS definitely has a lifespan. Between rust and mechanical you have come up against one of the determinants.
Stop it as much as you can, flair it to cover the cancer surgery and have tons of fun with it for the remainder of its lifespan.
All of that rusty metal needs to be cut away and replaced. There will be more extensive rust on the inside. New metal needs to be fabricated and welded in place. Body shops usually refuse to do this type of work. You need a car restoration shop, custom shop, or hot rod shop. Expect to pay around $3,000 or more per side. Once finished you’ll need extensive paint work to make it look like it matches. At that point almost half the car will need painting. Throw in another $3,000 for that.
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That might be a bit of an overstatement... but mebe not by much...
Go get some quotes for a proper (non hack job) repair and then see if it is an overstatement.
If you have rust there, there is also rust under the side skirts... and most likely on your front sub-frame.
Sadly, not worth repairing.
This is what I opted for:
www.mazda6club.com
Sadly, not worth repairing.
This is what I opted for:
Rear Fender Flares for the First Gen Mazda 6
A high percentage of the Gen I's have some rust on the rear wheel wells, a weak spot on many Mazda's, mine is one of them. My 6 is in perfect condition and it drives me nuts to see the rust making what could be a great older vehicle, look like a rust bucket. The reality for many of us is that it...
www.mazda6club.com
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