[NoahsMyBro]

I absolutely detest doing brake jobs. In my life I've done brake jobs on the following:

• 81 626
• 04 Mazda 6
• 96 Miata

- and maybe my 92 Saturn SL, don't remember for sure.

Every single time the job has been a nightmare.

But this summer I've been spending far, far too much money and I need to try and save wherever I can, so I'm considering doing the front brakes on my 6 myself instead of giving my mechanic the job.

Are there any 'gotchas' I need to worry about? I recall on my Miata there is something about needing to back out a piston with an allen wrench instead of just pushing on it, for example.

Thanks,
Steve

 

[TalonTsi90]

Manual or electric E brake? Gotta put EPB in maint mode first. Brakes are about the easiest thing to do aside from rotating tires. Also EPB, just push the caliper in, not rotate.

I HIGHLY suggest getting Centric Rotors and PowerStop Z23 pads above ANY other combination for any reason.

 

[NoahsMyBro]

EPB.

And thanks for the note - I wouldn't have even thought of that. I'm just doing the fronts - do I even need to care about the EPB in that case?

As for the parts, I was looking at the front axle full kit at Rock Auto - More Information for CENTRIC 90845036
Includes:

• Centric C-Tek rotors (CENTRIC 12145096 - More Information for CENTRIC 12145096)
• Centric ceramic pads (CENTRIC 30117110 - More Information for CENTRIC 30117110)

Does that seem reasonable for a daily driver? 60k total miles on the car so far.

If you think the Z23 pads are better I'm happy to take the advice. Was just considering the kit for the simplicity and assurance I'd be getting everything I need.

 

[Archerfish]

There's no need to enter in maintenance mode if you'll be doing the front only. Anyways, here's the link for the maintenance mode if ever you decide to check on the rear brakes.

DIY: - Rear Brake Maintenance Mode for 2016+ Ebrake

Special Thanks are given to Mazdas247.com. This was written by tomcat1446 helping to interpret a difficult service manual. I did this today using his write-up perfectly. Link: https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123861563-Maintenance-Mode-for-2016-2017-CX-5-electronic-brakes 2...

www.mazda6club.com

 

[Byakuya]

I'm with Talon - PowerStop rotors have been excellent to me so far. Worth the tiny bit of extra cost. I have the pads too and love them, but I've never had issues with the centric ones either.

 

[TalonTsi90]

Does that seem reasonable for a daily driver? 60k total miles on the car so far.

I got mine from Tirerack, they are a little bit more, but come anodized and lathed to match a certain tolerance. I also recommend changing the rears at the same time. Yes, PS Z23 pads are worth it. Brakes are not something i recommend skimping or cheaping out on.

Japan models, fronts: 120.45086 $69 each, rears: 120.45093 $37 each.
I got my Z23 pads from CarID, an advertising vendor on this site for less than Autozone wanted for just the fronts.

 

[tickerguy]

I like the Z23 pads a LOT, to the point that I put on my truck too.

Accept no substitutes, as they say...

 

[NoahsMyBro]

Thanks all. Just ordered the Z23 pads and also Powerstop rotors.

Came out to about $470 less than what I'd be paying to have my mechanic do the work for me. For that I can tolerate doing the job myself.

 

[TalonTsi90]

Be aware, they take a specific and longer bed in process, but once complete, they stick like glue.

 

[Zoom Zoom 4Ever]

Clean the surface of the hub where the rotor makes contact before you install the new rotor. If you have a wire brush you can put in a drill that works well, if not 220 grit sandpaper works fine, just takes longer. If you don't do this you can get a vibration when applying the brakes similar to a warped rotor. (yes I know that's an inaccurate term but everybody knows it)

 

[[email protected]]

Be aware, they take a specific and longer bed in process, but once complete, they stick like glue.

Endorsed 100%

I had the same setup installed on my wife's CX-9. I followed Powerstop's bedding process and after that with regular driving it kept getting better.

 

[thaxman]

Clean the surface of the hub where the rotor makes contact before you install the new rotor. If you have a wire brush you can put in a drill that works well, if not 220 grit sandpaper works fine, just takes longer. If you don't do this you can get a vibration when applying the brakes similar to a warped rotor. (yes I know that's an inaccurate term but everybody knows it)

I prefer to go a step up on rotors, looking for coated ones, and scuffing the coating will expose the iron, promoting rust which I imagine will fuse to the buffed hub as well.

 

[tickerguy]

He's talking about cleaning the HUB; the new rotor had better be clean as it just came out of the box!

He's right by the way; if you have corrosion on the hub it will prevent the rotor from seating evenly on the hub surface and that's very bad news. Get your wire wheel out for the drill and clean the hub surface where the rotor seats REAL WELL before you install the new rotors.

 

[NoahsMyBro]

So today I did the driver side front brakes.

There are no words sufficient for how much I loathe doing brake jobs. I really need a raise.

Anyway, as expected I needed to use liberal amounts of PB Blaster and my trusty heat gun before I was able to remove everything, in order to install the new parts.

I heeded the advice from you guys and cleaned my hub as best as I was able, using a handheld wire brush and brake parts cleaner. I hope it was sufficient.

I ran into trouble putting things back together though -

The lower Guide pin bolt on the caliper won’t tighten. (Pictured here is the upper, but the problem child is the lower.) As you can see in the picture there is the rubber boot, then a nut, then the caliper bracket arm that the bolt goes through, and then the bolt head.

On my lower Guide pin the nut next to the rubber boot spins with the Guide pin, and so I’m unable to tighten the Guide pin. (Yes, I added brake grease to the pins.)

What normally secures that nut? What can I do to fix this?

Tomorrow I’m going to have to take care of the passenger side so I can drive the car again. I’m hoping you guys can clue me in as to how to fix this driver side issue too so I can also fix that before driving the car.

Thanks all.

 

[TalonTsi90]

What normally secures that nut? What can I do to fix this?

Your 14mm open ended wrench. Brake jobs on these cars are easy.

 

[NoahsMyBro]

Your 14mm open ended wrench. Brake jobs on these cars are easy.

17mm, not 14mm.

So I used a 17mm open end wrench to hold that but in place as I tightened the Guide pin bolt, and that resulted in me effectively attaching my wrench to the car too. 😀

So I loosened things up enough to remove the open end wrench, and now the whole thing spins again.

I guess my question is:

should the whole thing - guide pin, nut, and rubber boot spin? (Seems wrong to me.)

OR

if not then what keeps the nut from spinning? Why didn’t it move when I worked on the upper guide pin?

 

[tickerguy]

Go get a thinner wrench. I have a set of "cheap' ones that are suitable for this sort of thing.

 

[Archerfish]

I hope this one can help:

DIY: - How to Clean Your Brakes - SUPER EASY - 2018 Mazda 6

You have the option to lift one wheel at a time or lift all four wheels of your car. You will need 13, 14, and 17 mm wrenches. If you have this kind of "flexible head ratchet", it will make the job easier. I don't recommend using the ratchet for the "initial force" when applying torque as...

www.mazda6club.com

 

[NoahsMyBro]

Thanks all.

Completed the job yesterday.

Followed the bedding procedure proscribed by Powerstop as best as I could and all seems fine now.