Amp/subwoofer install
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If you wish to keep your factory stereo and just add a subwoofer/s you will need to buy an LOC (Line Out Converter) to send signal to your amplifier via RCA cable. I am sure there is already a thread for the details on this install posted on his site somewhere... anybody.
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No it does not need to be a specific one. I personally enjoy Kicker products and they had a very reasonably priced LOC on Amazon I bought for my Mazda6
I also chose this one because of the small size of the product, making it very easy to hide.
Amazon link KICKER KISLOC
I also chose this one because of the small size of the product, making it very easy to hide.
Amazon link KICKER KISLOC
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Yes, if you have a shop install the entire stereo be prepared to shell out some big money. I was quoted $200+ to have an JUST amp kit and the LOC installed... I already had the subs mounted and wired.
If you install this yourself, you want tap into the factory wires that go from the headunit TO the Bose amp in the passenger side floor NOT AFTER! Do not cut any factory wires (use tap-in squeeze connectors) and be careful when removing existing factory electrical tape not to cut or damage any wires.
Took me about 1.5 - 2hrs to complete a full install (amp kit through firewall, LOC to Factory wiring, running all wiring through car)
If you install this yourself, you want tap into the factory wires that go from the headunit TO the Bose amp in the passenger side floor NOT AFTER! Do not cut any factory wires (use tap-in squeeze connectors) and be careful when removing existing factory electrical tape not to cut or damage any wires.
Took me about 1.5 - 2hrs to complete a full install (amp kit through firewall, LOC to Factory wiring, running all wiring through car)
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I'm having troubles connecting before the processor, how can I find which wires to connect into?
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If you want to add a subwoofer use this like I did.
PAC AOEM-MAZ2
Plugs directly into the back of the stock headunit. Ignore the fact that it says it doesn't work BOSE systems and the fact that it is not designed for 3rd Gen 6s. It works perfectly and made adding a subwoofer to my car extremely easy. Search Ebay or Amazon for a cheaper price, I got mine for about $35 shipped.
PAC AOEM-MAZ2
Plugs directly into the back of the stock headunit. Ignore the fact that it says it doesn't work BOSE systems and the fact that it is not designed for 3rd Gen 6s. It works perfectly and made adding a subwoofer to my car extremely easy. Search Ebay or Amazon for a cheaper price, I got mine for about $35 shipped.
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In no way at all would that be easier... And it is not for 3rd gens and not for bose audio? Why would you recommend this?
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Quite interesting...:nerd:
Does this module make adding a sub & amp essentially plug n play? I have been wanting to add a sub & amp but don't want to lose my oem stereo.
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Uh... OK I thought it could be inferred from what I wrote, but I guess I could be clearer. I have a 2014 Mazda 6 Touring with Bose, despite what the webpage says, I purchased the device and used it in my own car to install a working subwoofer, which is why I recommended it.
Yes it was extremely simple to add a subwoofer to the stock OEM head unit using this. Keep in mind I had never added a subwoofer to a car before. Just plug into the back of the head unit and plug the stock cable into the AOEM-MAZ2. (pass-through) Everything else works perfectly like steering wheel controls and the commander knob, adjusting the volume/bass/treble from the head unit affects the subwoofer volume/bass/treble too.
In my case it was even easier than you'd think. Because my subwoofer is a simple self-powered unit, I just used basic L-R audio cable to connect the low-level output from the AOEM-MAZ2 directly to the subwoofer, got power from the interior fuse box with an Add-a-Fuse, and ground the subwoofer on one of the bolts that holds the back seat to the frame of the car. The AOEM-MAZ2 even has a remote turn-on wire for the amp/sub. It was super easy. Running the wires to the trunk behind the interior trim took the more time than anything else.
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Thanks a bunch @Kingbee116! I had been putting off my stereo for a long time because I didn't want to pay a fortune to have a shop do it. Think i'll pick one of these up and start looking into a sub.
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subbing (no pun intended)
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hah yea.
so this might be the ticket to allowing a) an easy clean way for RCA outputs for a 4+ channel amp and b) a way to use stock door wiring by cuting into this PAC device's harness for each speaker, thus avoiding running new wires or cutting stock harness to tie the amp in.
if you got one of those ultra compact amps, youre whole setup could be right behind the dash/glovebox.
[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Clarion-Electronics-XC1410-4-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00B43LKV0/[/ame]
then the only bit you gotta hack into is the speaker connectors themselves since there is still no adapter.
so this might be the ticket to allowing a) an easy clean way for RCA outputs for a 4+ channel amp and b) a way to use stock door wiring by cuting into this PAC device's harness for each speaker, thus avoiding running new wires or cutting stock harness to tie the amp in.
if you got one of those ultra compact amps, youre whole setup could be right behind the dash/glovebox.
[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Clarion-Electronics-XC1410-4-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00B43LKV0/[/ame]
then the only bit you gotta hack into is the speaker connectors themselves since there is still no adapter.
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Please let us know. I am interested
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a few of the reviews on Amazon are stating it will work w/ the GJ
[ame]http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001715RQS[/ame]
[ame]http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001715RQS[/ame]
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