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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so I looked on hear to figure out which wire to tap into from my bose subwoofer. I hooked it up and the signal was kinda weak. I used to have the same system in my grand am and the bass output was stronger. The gains are the same on the amp as it was in the grand am, the only thing seriously different is the car and the battery. I'm still using the factory battery in my 6, but in the grand am I had an orbital exide with 890 cca. Does that battery make that much of a difference? And should I have tapped into my speaker wires instead of my subwoofer wires? Because thats what I did in my grand am!!!
 

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how's it set up? bose? non-bose? LOC?

i'm running the bose low level inputs directly into my amp & it sound good. strong & deep.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
how's it set up? bose? non-bose? LOC?

i'm running the bose low level inputs directly into my amp & it sound good. strong & deep.
[/b]
I have the bose system with low level outputs too. Which wires did you tap into exactly. I'll check mine and see if its the same.
 

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check out this thread, and the associated links. http://forum.mazda6club.com/index.php?showtopic=63154

i used a Y splitter and tapped the signal at the bose harness using the thin black/red wire.

how exactly did you get the signal? at the HU? bose amp? bose sub amp?
 

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Could the grand am have a higher volt to their subwoofer? So if you tapped into the Mazda output at a lower volt, you would have to crank up the gains. Thats what gains are for to match the input into the amp.
 

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i've seen this problem before. if you grab the signal at the bose harness using both the thin wires (black/red strip & tan) the signal is almost unusable. but, if you use only the positive lead (black/red) the signal works fine. see linked post above.

others may have different experiences using both thin wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i've seen this problem before. if you grab the signal at the bose harness using both the thin wires (black/red strip & tan) the signal is almost unusable. but, if you use only the positive lead (black/red) the signal works fine. see linked post above.

others may have different experiences using both thin wires.
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Alright so I just checked out which wires I tapped into. First off, I'm tapping into the wires in the trunk that connect to the factory sub. I had my line level converter positives on the yellow wire, my turn on lead on the blue/red wire, and my negative leads on the brown wire. I know now that this was wrong. The problem is that my 2007 5-door has 5 wires: blue/red, solid black, solid brown, solid yellow, and a black/red. I read from other threads that I can leave the negative wires from my converter unattached, but my positive and turn on lead can be connected to the positive Bose wire. I don't know which one though. Some say black/red and some say blue/red. The black/red is thin and the blue/red is thick, so which one?
 

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should be the black/red wire.

you don't need a LOC though, you can run the low level signal right into your low level (RCA) input on the amp.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
should be the black/red wire.

you don't need a LOC though, you can run the low level signal right into your low level (RCA) input on the amp.
[/b]
I don't know whats wrong, I just tried that and the tone was really hig pitched for bass and when I turned the car off the speakers started thumping. I know my ground is secure so its not that. I guess I'll just have to try different wires, because whenever I had the negative on the converter unattached, nothing happened. Right now I have it working just fine with the negavtives on the converter on the yellow wire and the positives on the black/red, and the turn on lead on the blue/red. So I guess I might just leave it alone.
So basically, you have all of your wires on the black/red lead? Because my converter has two positive leads, two negative leads, and a blue turn on. Is you converter like mine?
 

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you're using a Line Output Converter (LOC)? you don't need it with the bose system. that's probably part of your problem.

read through the post i linked above (http://forum.mazda6club.com/index.php?showtopic=63154)

you can go straight from the bose sub harness into the amp by using RCAs. i outlined it in the thread, give it a read.

mine is hooked up like this: used Y splitter, postives to the black/red, negative disconnected. Y splitter connects up to the RCAs that pipe straight into the amp. no LOC used or needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
you're using a Line Output Converter (LOC)? you don't need it with the bose system. that's probably part of your problem.

read through the post i linked above (http://forum.mazda6club.com/index.php?showtopic=63154)

you can go straight from the bose sub harness into the amp by using RCAs. i outlined it in the thread, give it a read.

mine is hooked up like this: used Y splitter, postives to the black/red, negative disconnected. Y splitter connects up to the RCAs that pipe straight into the amp. no LOC used or needed.[/b]
My bad for taking so long to reply, but I do hav and LOC, but I just bypassed that because I wanted to try the rca cord attached to the black and red wire, but it didn't work. Do you have a 5-door or even a 2007? I don't know if they changed the wires but, I read the thread and it didn't work for my car. The amp was on, but no output.
 

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you're using a Line Output Converter (LOC)? you don't need it with the bose system. that's probably part of your problem.

read through the post i linked above (http://forum.mazda6club.com/index.php?showtopic=63154)

you can go straight from the bose sub harness into the amp by using RCAs. i outlined it in the thread, give it a read.

mine is hooked up like this: used Y splitter, postives to the black/red, negative disconnected. Y splitter connects up to the RCAs that pipe straight into the amp. no LOC used or needed.[/b]

so the positives are attavhed to the black red and the negatives on the rcas is left unused?
 

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that should work for you. audio is AC, the "negative" wire serves as a reference. it'll still work if disconnected.

if you're more comfortable connecting all four wires, splice into the radio harness at the radio or input into the bose amp under the seat; use the front speakers.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
that should work for you. audio is AC, the "negative" wire serves as a reference. it'll still work if disconnected.

if you're more comfortable connecting all four wires, splice into the radio harness at the radio or input into the bose amp under the seat; use the front speakers.[/b]
Aight I'm gonna try it again in a day or two. I might have done something wrong. I got so frustrated I just disconnected all of my stuff, but it's boring without the boom. Oh yeah, I didn't use a y splitter. I just used one rca cord because I just wanted to see if it worked. I cut it open and there was two wires, one in a sheilded wrapping and another a little bit wrapped around the sheilded wire. I think my problem was twisted both together, so I'm going to try it later with just either one of the wires hooked to the black and red wire.
 

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you want to tap off the front door speakers not the sub..... use the sub for a remote turn on
 

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Discussion Starter #16
you want to tap off the front door speakers not the sub..... use the sub for a remote turn on[/b]
Why the front door speakers? Wouldn't the sub have stronger or deeper frequency than door speakers?
 

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the signal to the sub harness has already passed through a filter in the bose amp under the seat. i have no idea what it's set to, but it sounds fine (cuts out freqs above ~150hz?). if you get the signal from the fronts you'll get a wider frequecy range. you can then set the cross over on your aftermarket amp to whatever you like.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
the signal to the sub harness has already passed through a filter in the bose amp under the seat. i have no idea what it's set to, but it sounds fine (cuts out freqs above ~150hz?). if you get the signal from the fronts you'll get a wider frequecy range. you can then set the cross over on your aftermarket amp to whatever you like.[/b]
so then what wires do I tap into from the front speakers? I thought what you was explaining before was from the factory subwoofer wires (the black and red wire)? Do I just connect the positives from the front speakers to the rca cord, leave the negatives unattached, and go from there?
 

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so then what wires do I tap into from the front speakers? I thought what you was explaining before was from the factory subwoofer wires (the black and red wire)? Do I just connect the positives from the front speakers to the rca cord, leave the negatives unattached, and go from there?[/b]
you know my opinion, as outlined in post #4. i say use only the black/red at the bose sub harness.

in my previous post there i was articulating my point and illustrating what -69- was trying to say about the fronts.

typically, with a sub you'll want to reproduce frequences <80hz. you'll be fine using the filtered signal from the bose amp. that's all a personal preference, that no doubt will be debated.

follow the directions linked in post #4 and you'll be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
you know my opinion, as outlined in post #4. i say use only the black/red at the bose sub harness.

in my previous post there i was articulating my point and illustrating what -69- was trying to say about the fronts.

typically, with a sub you'll want to reproduce frequences <80hz. you'll be fine using the filtered signal from the bose amp. that's all a personal preference, that no doubt will be debated.

follow the directions linked in post #4 and you'll be fine.[/b]
Aight, thats what I'm gonna do then (take it front the sub harness). I'll have it done this weekend. Thanks
 
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