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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I plan to run 2000 watts rms which consists of 4 subs, two amps, and I want to put neons under my seats and under the car. I might also add a tv in the top compartment of my 2007 mazda 6 5-door. Do I need to get a stronger alternator? I plan to do the big 3 upgrade and buy an orbit exide battery or a stinger. So could I just do the big 3 and battery or will I need to get a stronger alt put in? Also, if I need a new alternator, what can you recommend me? I don't want to spend more than $200 for the alt.
 

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I plan to run 2000 watts rms which consists of 4 subs, two amps, and I want to put neons under my seats and under the car. I might also add a tv in the top compartment of my 2007 mazda 6 5-door. Do I need to get a stronger alternator? I plan to do the big 3 upgrade and buy an orbit exide battery or a stinger. So could I just do the big 3 and battery or will I need to get a stronger alt put in? Also, if I need a new alternator, what can you recommend me? I don't want to spend more than $200 for the alt.
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Just do what you want to do and see if the stock alt can handle it. Your going to pay MUCH more than $200 for an upgraded alt.
 

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RPM

try 4x$200 for the alt.. LOL...
 

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i think if your running that much power in your car, try a grounding kit first and maybe even a voltage stabilizer. Try running it off of taht. A cheap replaced used alternator will run you 160 bucks, yer nuts for thinkin 200 bucks.. ANy strong aftermarket unused will AT LEAST run you 400-500 for a car.

EDIT" im not saying buy a cheap alternator"
 

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Im running 2450 watts RMS right now on my stock alt with no BIG 3 done and I have yet to run into a problem..
 

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I think ur stock alt should be able to handle it... im running like 1600 watts on mine but i also have a 10 farad hybrid capacitor. Just get a capacitor and a ground kit. I gotta get my ground kit......
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I got a 3 farad cap, but I had the same system in my 2001 grand am, but the lights flickered in that car. And I believe my stock amp was 125 amps. I also had an Orbital Exide batt. I want to know that if I decide to push my amp to the limit, that my car won't go down with it. I have an Infinity 1211a. It runs 1300 watts rms and I have a Jensen that runs 450rms, so I just don't want any lights to flicker or the factory alt to burn out. I'll probably just do the big 3 and get a better battery because I'm getting to anxious to put in my system.
 

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Doing the BIG 3 will help out some, but theres still no need to buy a new HO ALT. If your worried bout your lights flickering then theres not gonna be much you and do bout that even with putting in CAPs.. I did however notice that if you get HID's you wont have any flickering issues at all or atleast I do have any. The only thing that flickers on mine is the tail lights.
 

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It depends. Are you going to try to blast your stereo for hours on end? Are you just going to play it loud once in a while? At full crank with the car running, you are drawing ~180 amps. Way more than your alternator can provide. At that piont you are depending on the charge in your battery to keep the stereo going, thus you will run out at some point. More batteries will let you play it longer. A monster alternator will let you play it forever. BTW this is one of the reasons your lights flicker, with the car running you are running on ~14.4 volts, once the alternator power is exceeded you are on battery power, most likely just over 12 volts.
BTW if you are planning to blast your stereo for hours outside MY HOUSE, you will need more than a battery or alternator to keep it going.
Ha, Ha. Peace.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Alright so I went to shop the other day to get prices on the big3 upgrade and the lowest I got was 150 with 0 gauge wiring, good price right??? But their boss said that they aren't insured under 2007's. But, they had a red cap optima for 150. The guy said it was 1000 cold cranking amps. Is that enough for 2000 watts rms, with the big 3 upgrade?
 

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2 things on the RMS is 1) unless you've got an amp rated at 12v or you've got an amazing electrical system, you won't get RMS if it's rated at 14v. 2) the stock alt in the 6 cylinder 6 is what 105-120amp? Figure the max load it can do while the car is above idle is that 120 amps of which the car takes 20-35 depending on what's running. So that leaves you with 80-90 amps for a system. 1kw amps take over 90amps to produce that kind of power if you really want it.

my thought, is what kind of amps are you running before you say you're running 2kw of power what is it going to be? i've built 4 systems that have competed and won world title's or records in the past 3 years so I can try and help. anyone running a lot of power and saying they have no issues with stock or even an added battery or a cap is an idiot. caps any and all, are a bandaid not a fix. a cap has to recieve an electrical charge in order to help your system, if you're already needing more juice than the main source(alternator) an supply it just takes more energy to get the cap working right.
 
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