Mazda 6 Forums banner

121 - 137 of 137 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
I'm sorry for the late reply. For some reason, I didn't get a notification that you had tagged me. My solution worked extremely well (as noted in my most recent update to this thread) for nearly 3 months...zero alarm triggers, I was pleased.

Then 2 nights ago, it went off again. Since I only did the drivers side door, I'll now be disabling the passenger side door. I'll update if this officially solves my problem.
Thanks for the update.

I'm going to start with the left rear door and see how it goes. I previously cleaned and bridged the hood switch but it had no effect so I put it back. I'm sure my neighbors will appreciate if my car shuts up since my driveway is closer to their house than mine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Been having this problem on my 2010 Mazda6 Grand Touring. Really don't want to put anymore money into this car (it was just in an accident and should have been totaled but wasn't) at this point to replace things like door actuators and such. No indications via instrument cluster that it's doors anyway.

Definitely not mechanically-inclined enough to start digging around cleaning pins and things like that. My remote starter is dead anyways (I had to get a PCM replaced and apparently that killed the remote starter), so wondering if I can just remove this box that I found under the steering wheel to silence the damn thing, or if that will trigger the immobilizer and everything?


241050
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
I have had this issue on my 2009 i GT for a couple of years. Initially I took it to my local Mazda dealer, who told me after finding that the alarms were triggered by the rear doors and consulting with MazdaUSA they said to replace the Body Control Module - $800. I wasn't convinced that would solve the issue (and they would not guarantee it) so I passed. I tried the "spray rear door locks with WD-40", that did not solve the issue. I then replaced both rear door lock actuators myself, that did not work.

I am interested in hearing the results of motarque bridging the door ajar wires on both rear doors.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
just wanted to say thanks for this thread; helped me pinpoint issue and learnt how to use multi-meter to check battery after a few suggestions
the door alarm signal was triggering mine for a long time
got a uk dealership to scan (£60) and replace (£158) and no issues since

car; mazda 6 MY2009 59plate 2.2diesel sport (would love parking sensors but hay ho)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
2010 Mazda 6 i Sport US.
Remote with key.

Leaving my hood open, and up, I noticed that I can lock all the doors with the remote,
and the alarm will set... but it will not go off !
I'm unplugging my hood sensor, so it thinks the hood is always open.
This is a perfect solution, and completely reversible.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Australian Mazda GH 2008 2.5L Manual Sports Luxury
After a year of this happening i have finally decided to give this a go. Its not for everybody but it costs nothing. Trick is to bridge the wires for the door ajar sensor in the problem door. All this will mean is your car wont be able to tell when that door is open. e.g. can lock it when its open and light wont come on if passenger opens it at night. Something im willing to bear.
After a trend started on this forum showing a common issue of the door latches showing ajar so i knew it must be one of them, especially since as the problem became moreefrequent, my door ajar light started coming on whilst driving. I went to a friendly Autoelectrician that gave me the entire electrical manual for my car for free (what a legend) and i knew i had to disable (bridge) the door ajar sensor in each door until it stopped. Below is the diagram for all 4 doors.
View attachment 238576
As per the diagram, the wires that need to be bridged are as follows:
Driver: Black/Blue with Black/Yellow
Front Passenger: Red/Green with Black/Yellow
Rear Right: White/Black with Black
Rear Left: Black/White with Black

I litteraly stuck a stripped end insulated wire into the back of the plug for the two relevant ones.
View attachment 238578
Take the door panel off (youtube) and the plug is at the back near the latch.
Then its a matter of process of elimination, this is my back right door, i bridged the white w/ black stripe and black wires and the door light went off.

Good Luck!
@dawson
Finally got a chance to pull the interior panel off of the left rear door and bridged the contacts. Not sure if I successfully made contact between the leads since the door still turns the light on when the door is open. Nonetheless it's been 24 hours and no alarms. The day before it was going off several times per hour. Maybe just pulling the plug on and off several times improved the contact between the plug and the outlet that's it's working normally for now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
@dawson
Finally got a chance to pull the interior panel off of the left rear door and bridged the contacts. Not sure if I successfully made contact between the leads since the door still turns the light on when the door is open. Nonetheless it's been 24 hours and no alarms. The day before it was going off several times per hour. Maybe just pulling the plug on and off several times improved the contact between the plug and the outlet that's it's working normally for now.
It's been 3 weeks now and no alarms. 🤞
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Negative terminal had some corrosion on it so i disconnected and cleaned it then got out my voltmeter and tested the battery 12.5 V off and 14.5 V at idle so the battery is good but the alarm is still going off so my last resort is bringing it to Mazda so they can hook it up and get a readout what's triggering the alarm which should cost $100 off the back this is rediculos already
Hi did u find the problem?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
I tried bridging the door ajar wires on both rear doors but my alarm still went off. Decided to try DrawsOnCad solution of disconnecting the hood latch sensor. First I sat inside the vehicle and had my wife lock it with the remote (she was outside the car). After waiting the 20+ seconds for the alarm to arm, I unlocked the vehicle with the inside door lock lever and the alarm went off (as it should). I then repeated this process after disconnecting the hood latch sensor (and closing the hood). This time the alarm did not sound. So at least now I can lock my car and not have to worry about the alarm going off, although now the theft deterrent system is disabled.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
although now the theft deterrent system is disabled.
It's not much of a deterrent. No one pays attention to honkng horns and flashing lights. My driveway is right outside my neighbor's bedroom window. My car has been intermittently honking for three years. He's never mentioned it to me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Let's wait until the 4th week.
Actually made it well past 4 weeks but it started again about 6 months ago. I finally had a chance to pull the door apart and instead of bridging the wires in the plug, I cut them and sliced them together. The left rear door is definitely no longer monitored. The dome light and door and light no longer come on when opening the left rear door.

If the sporadic alarms come back, I'll do the same for the right rear.

Now I'm not sure if this is related to cutting the 2 wires, but the power window isn't working. In Florida, we never open the windows so it's not an issue. I'm really not sure because that window might have stopped working long ago, I'd never know. At least the power lock still works, that's all I care about (and of course silencing the alarm).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,834 Posts
Actually made it well past 4 weeks but it started again about 6 months ago. I finally had a chance to pull the door apart and instead of bridging the wires in the plug, I cut them and sliced them together. The left rear door is definitely no longer monitored. The dome light and door and light no longer come on when opening the left rear door.

If the sporadic alarms come back, I'll do the same for the right rear.

Now I'm not sure if this is related to cutting the 2 wires, but the power window isn't working. In Florida, we never open the windows so it's not an issue. I'm really not sure because that window might have stopped working long ago, I'd never know. At least the power lock still works, that's all I care about (and of course silencing the alarm).
Why you "never" open the windows? I've been there once in Jacksonville and only stayed there for a couple of days.

The wires you cut definitely is connected to the dome lights but I'm not sure about the windows.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Why you "never" open the windows? I've been there once in Jacksonville and only stayed there for a couple of days.

The wires you cut definitely is connected to the dome lights but I'm not sure about the windows.
A/C is on 100% of the time. Drivers window gets opened for takeout window or bank teller. Sunroof hasn't been opened since the salesman opened it when the car was delivered 11.5 years ago. Just don't need the bugs, noise or humidity of driving with any open glass. I've got a motorcycle for open air transportation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,834 Posts
A/C is on 100% of the time. Drivers window gets opened for takeout window or bank teller. Sunroof hasn't been opened since the salesman opened it when the car was delivered 11.5 years ago. Just don't need the bugs, noise or humidity of driving with any open glass. I've got a motorcycle for open air transportation.
I see... I took the word "never" literally so I was wondering why. It's also hot here so I don't open the windows and as you have said, only during takeouts.

I think opening the sunroof and windows right after starting the car can help in dissipating heat faster as I put the A/C full blast.

Good to know that you don't have any leaks on the sunroof. I spray silicone from time to time as I don't know how reliable it is.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
It's been 1 full week and no alarms.
 
121 - 137 of 137 Posts
Top